Water weight

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CarFanatic

Fiberglassing Newb
Location
Cincinnati, OH
I was thinking, like on my seadoo, they have styrafoam wedge around the sides between the top and botom halfs. Wonder why they dont do that on the stand ups? Or something simlar. That would allow water to drain into the hull and then out the back if there were drain plugs.
 
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yamaslut

Guest
CarFanatic said:
I was thinking, like on my seadoo, they have styrafoam wedge around the sides between the top and botom halfs. Wonder why they dont do that on the stand ups? Or something simlar. That would allow water to drain into the hull and then out the back if there were drain plugs.
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they just don't...

no one knows why they do what they do... I would assume it's cheaper
 
sjetrider

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
Location
in the 615 (Nashville)
It is hard to keep something completeley sealed when there are so many opertunities for water to enter.
Cooling lines in most cases 4 places
stock bilge line 2 places
steering cable 2 places
exhaust 2 places
intermediate one large place
driveshaft tube 2 places
Bond line could be a huge intake.
inserts for pump bolts 4 places
ride plate bolts 4 places or 6 places on a SN
intake 4 bolt holes

How in the world can you not expect water intrution and YES even on an aftermarket hull. Seems no way arround it??????????????????
 
Mark44

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
U

sjetrider said:
It is hard to keep something completeley sealed when there are so many opertunities for water to enter.
Cooling lines in most cases 4 places
stock bilge line 2 places
steering cable 2 places
exhaust 2 places
intermediate one large place
driveshaft tube 2 places
Bond line could be a huge intake.
inserts for pump bolts 4 places
ride plate bolts 4 places or 6 places on a SN
intake 4 bolt holes

How in the world can you not expect water intrution and YES even on an aftermarket hull. Seems no way arround it??????????????????
Click to expand...


Yep my thoughts exactly the hull manufacturers I mean aftermarket manufacturers need to do a little more engineering or hire an engineer to do it for them so these nice hulls can get drains in them. :biggthumpup:

Mark44
 
C

CarFanatic

Fiberglassing Newb
Location
Cincinnati, OH
ya, it makes sense, to design it were you can drain the water out. Especually when you spend that kinda money on a nice hull. I would hate to buy one only to have to cut it up later to drain water logged foam out.
 
sjetrider

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
Location
in the 615 (Nashville)
Mark44 said:
Yep my thoughts exactly the hull manufacturers I mean aftermarket manufacturers need to do a little more engineering or hire an engineer to do it for them so these nice hulls can get drains in them. :biggthumpup:

Mark44
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Really the only way is heavy reinforcement and a closed sell foam (like whats in the nose) molded to fit would work. I gotta believe it will be very expensive to have the molded foam pieces made and it would limmit options on where you run scuppers, waterlines, exhaust and so forth to do it that way. I think unless you got lots of extra $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ your stuck w/ pour in foam option. I wich there were another way as I am at that point now with the REV build.
 
Mark44

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
u

sjetrider said:
Really the only way is heavy reinforcement and a closed sell foam (like whats in the nose) molded to fit would work. I gotta believe it will be very expensive to have the molded foam pieces made and it would limmit options on where you run scuppers, waterlines, exhaust and so forth to do it that way. I think unless you got lots of extra $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ your stuck w/ pour in foam option. I wich there were another way as I am at that point now with the REV build.
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Not at all, I was able to use the pour in foam method and allow for channels horizontally and vertically under hull penetrations to channel any moisture to the rear drains it just takes a little though and planning. Think about it:biggthumpup:

Mark44
 
Speedfreak

Speedfreak

Location
So. IL
If your going to use foam then use open cell foam. Everybody knows that closed cell foam holds water and it does get waterlogged. Every ski gets water in it just getting the water out is the problem. 2 minutes of daining or 4 to 6 hours of completely defoaming.

Water runs right through the Great Stuff foam. Just fill it with that and install drains.

I will be running without foam untill I see my first stress crack then I will reinforce and greatstuff it.
 
sjetrider

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
Location
in the 615 (Nashville)
Speedfreak said:
If your going to use foam then usopen celle foam. Everybody knows that closed cell foam holds water and it does get waterlogged. Every ski gets water in it just getting the water out is the problem. 2 minutes of daining or 4 to 6 hours of completely defoaming.

Water runs right through the Great Stuff foam. Just fill it with that and install drains.

I will be running without foam untill I see my first stress crack then I will reinforce and greatstuff it.
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Open cell foam? And where is this avail? Great stuff is a latex correct? And if you break outer hard shell layer it will sink correct?
 
sjetrider

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
Location
in the 615 (Nashville)
Mark44 said:
Not at all, I was able to use the pour in foam method and allow for channels horizontally and vertically under hull penetrations to channel any moisture to the rear drains it just takes a little though and planning. Think about it:biggthumpup:

Mark44
Click to expand...

The foam though will still retain water correct? You will get the gallon of water he drained out but not the 14# of saterated foam correct. And believe me I have thought of everything imaginable right down to pingpong balls bro LOL. I gave up and decided to seal it up as best as posible, then seal it up again.
 
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yamaslut

Guest
Speedfreak said:
If your going to use foam then use open cell foam. Everybody knows that closed cell foam holds water and it does get waterlogged. Every ski gets water in it just getting the water out is the problem. 2 minutes of daining or 4 to 6 hours of completely defoaming.

Water runs right through the Great Stuff foam. Just fill it with that and install drains.

I will be running without foam untill I see my first stress crack then I will reinforce and greatstuff it.
Click to expand...

wrong.... Great Stuff will hold water like a pregnant woman...
trust me, I have been there
 
Mark44

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
Speedfreak said:
If your going to use foam then use open cell foam. Everybody knows that closed cell foam holds water and it does get waterlogged. Every ski gets water in it just getting the water out is the problem. 2 minutes of daining or 4 to 6 hours of completely defoaming.

Water runs right through the Great Stuff foam. Just fill it with that and install drains.

I will be running without foam untill I see my first stress crack then I will reinforce and greatstuff it.
Click to expand...

Sorry wrong.......Foam contains cells of air. This makes it light weight and very good for gasketing, sealing and cushioning applications. Open-cell foam has cells that connect to one another like sponge closed-cell foam has cells that are completely closed.

Great stuff is not like a sponge although the two part foams work much better in our application. I can get into that later.

Yes the closed foam will break down over time from compression breaking each closed cell. This will allow a place for water to sit unless it has a way to be channeled away from the compressed area. The only way closed cell foam will sink is if each cell is compresses not retaining its structure of cells.

Jr,
Do not fill your ski with sponges. LOL Open-cell foam

Mark44
 
W

wydopen

Guest
i was thinking stuffing enough of those in there that it would replace the foam..just put quite a few psi in em..
 
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