Water injection for pipe

Joker

...chaos? Its Fair!
So last summer I had my pipe setup where all three of the inputs on the pipe were flowing with no restriction. This cause a low end bog that wouldn't go away until all the water cleared from the pipe and water box. Then the power kicked in and it ripped. I want to dry the pipe out. Which of the three sites should I use and how should I restrictions the flow to them? Right now I have the mid capped off and the top and bottom hooked up.

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VXSXH20

Sionis Industries
Location
Mid-Atlantic
Kye, you should run water to the stinger cone but put a restrictor on it . like a flow control valve. as far as injecting into the head pipe chamber it is hard to see where the injection points are. i see the MID capped off. if you could tap in or introduce water right after the manifold or coupler i think that may be ideal. but if you only have the top nipple avail. start there. you can restrict that flow in there too. utilzing a control valve or a restrictor valve. you could also look into the MSD injector nozzle probes they use on the water injection systems. Then you could drill into the pipe and set it where it beneft the most. You want to dry that pipe out as much as possible without getting to the melting point of couplers or manifold damage. some guys run bpipes and only introduce the water at the stinger into the waterbox. leaving there screws closed to keep the pipe dry but this is done with caution and usually much cooler water temps. If you are single cooling you can tee it off to dump most water overboard and use whats after the tee for the pipe stinger or injection. if your running dual cooling you will want to dump one line off the engine or head over and use the other for the pipe. just dont have both lines feeding the pipe.

-if it were me, I would cap the top and the mid. and start SLOW at the stinger and see what performance it yields and check on engine and pipe temps. then if it is too hot or marginal, then I take step 2 to the top nipple and run a restictor on there one that is adjusable and crack it a pinch. let the water in, check temp and rpm response.. leave it where the power is avail but not water bogged down.
 

Joker

...chaos? Its Fair!
Thanks for the novel. I understand all that. Here are the clarifications. I have dual cooling setup just like being ran on a bpipe. 2 into the mani. One out the head to bottom of head pipe. 1 out of head to pisser. The head pipe line then feeds water injection on pipe along with pisser #2.

The three injection ports are circled and labeled. T is top M is mid and B is bottom or stinger.

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VXSXH20

Sionis Industries
Location
Mid-Atlantic
No prob bro, start with water at B then if it's too hot move to T , that wetjet pipe could prob take quite a bit of heat dry it out. It's got way too much water in there.
 

Joker

...chaos? Its Fair!
Thanks Joe. Should I cap off top and mid and restrict the bottom. It's got a free flow 3/8 line to it. Should i just get a fcv to control the water at the stinger? Can i just put some type of other restricter inline? Should I have the pipe sizzling up to the stinger?
 
Location
Kiowa, KS
The top one should affect bottom end power more than the others but too much water will decrease your peak rpms. You definitely want to add more water at the stinger as the rpms go up so that you don't melt the coupler. Personally I would put a fcv on the stinger and have it open around 5k rpm and start decreasing jetting on the top injection point and test for pipe and coupler temp. After a short WOT you want the pipe to get hot but not hot enough to boil water and you don't want your couplers melting.

You might want to also run a mesh type fuel filter inline before the jets so keep them from clogging. something like http://www.itw-fastex-cva.com/images/stories/data-shts/visufilter/8426-00-9909.PDF
 
Location
Kiowa, KS
I think less than $50.
On my super jet, I'm just bypassing the water to the stinger and dumping to a pisser so no fcv. My waterbox clears out fast.
Honestly They fcv is only needed if you want your waterbox to dry at idle.
Throw a 110 to 130 main jet in the top with filter, bypass the water to the stinger and see how that treats you.
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Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
For my line going to the stinger I shoved a piece of 1/4" hose inside of the 3/8" water line to restrict the flow. Idling it doesn't seem to let much water through, and once you get up above 1/2 throttle it will push the water into the stinger.
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
I am doing it on my coffman pipe and haven't had any issues with it getting hot.

Side note I have that same exhaust on my wetjet and the smaller V-clamp leaks out some nasty stuff when I shut the ski off. I have tried using ATV on the copper gasket but no luck. Do you have any tips on getting that part to seal?
 

VXSXH20

Sionis Industries
Location
Mid-Atlantic
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I'd go with something adjsutable like the one circled red, that way you can set it where ever the sweet spot is. Or the Jetworks FCV up in Blue.. But anything will help you in this case. Hit up Jetmaniac. He has them and may have something used.. Last resort is to hit up your hardware store and go find some 3/8 brass fittings a male thread and female thread.. then make your own on the cheap. you could put a stainless ball bearing and a spring in the inside if your feeling thrifty...
 
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