Vacuum bagging Tips and tricks

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
Thought this would be a good topic to discuss I am reading up on resin infusion and making molds does any one have any experience in this?

I think I have a pretty good grasp on the resin infusion.

Mark44
 
hey, it cant be that hard......just start a tread on the internet and suddenly youll know EVERYTHING.

isnt that how most e-xperts are made?
 
Well if it is just the pumps I have a dozen or so pumps also.. I will have to find out the volume... Whoo Hoo I am vacuum bagging..... Ok maybe not I will just buy it finished...
 

Jawbreaker

Rick James Edition
Location
Music City, TN
hey, it cant be that hard......just start a tread on the internet and suddenly youll know EVERYTHING.

isnt that how most e-xperts are made?

lol

Not me....I became an expert after taking my 15 min composite and fiberglass fabrication class at the local boaters world. I even got my framed graduation certificate with a gold star on it! :bananajump:
 

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
From my experience.... you must continually move from the standing to squating position... oh..sorry- wrong type of bagging.

Seriously- I would love to learn how to do this someday as well... kudos mark.... hope some people respond with some good info for you.
 
Buddy of mine used to work for a boat manufacturer, and he did some bagging to fix his ski. He showed me how to do it, and it is really quite simple. Hard for me to explain in detail. You need some cloth that won't stick, an absorbant layer (can get it from craft stores for the stuff you use to insulate quilts) and plastic sheeting. Also need a vacum source and the adapters to connect them through the plastic. lay glass, lay fabric on top, lay absorbent stuff on that, duct tape the plastic all around after putting the vacum connector through a small hole in the plastic, and hook up to suction. As long as no leaks it pulls the plastic down tight to conform the glass to the mold or ski (for repairs) and sucks out excess resin.

Takes a bit of skill/finesse to get it to work right (like most things) but it is basically pretty easy.


Kit to start: http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...773&familyName=WEST+System+Vacuum+Bagging+Kit

How-To for canoes: http://www.nessmuking.com/vacbag.htm

More how to http://www.bertram31.com/proj/tips/vaccuum.htm

http://www.fibreglast.com/contentpages-moved-230.html


That should get you all started. Play around with it on some scrap stuff.
 
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Katie

Way cooler than Mark44
Location
Union, Missouri
Hey I learned how to build and work on cars through the internet. Its really about drive and perseverance and the knowing that you probably won't get it on the first try or having it come out perfect until the 10th or 20th or maybe 30th try. I actually thrive on the challenge and have been wanting to work with fiberglass for awhile.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
To real quick tips,if its a small part you can use a foodsaver,no breather fabric or release paper is needed,it will do long items but not wide items since the bags are continous length,put it in the bag suck the air out and go.If its a larger part an old air hockey table can be easily converted to make a vacumn table,this does require the whole range of vacumn bagging materials be used.Ps most of what I learned about frp and gelcoat was learned the by doing it, I do have Cobalt boat and Mastercraft boat gelcoat certs.
 
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#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
The infusion is nice but you have to eliminate any leakage in both the mold and the vacuum bag. A leak will ruin the part because air will become entrained in the laminate. Leaks are the biggest problem with vacuum bagging. You also have to position the feed lines properly. It is not hard to figure that out but it takes practice and some trail & error before you get the positioning right for your particular project. Positioning is determined by how fast the resin flows through the laminate and how far it has to travel.

Speed of flow is determined by resin viscosity and the laminate stack and whether there is a core in the laminate (sliced and perforated) or an interlaminar flow medium or a surface flow medium.

You have to make a lot of test samples to get the technique down and to learn how to eliminate leaks in the hose connections and bag. The through bag aluminum twist lock caps work a bit better then those suction cup types and they can be purchased for 18 bucks here. http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Vacuum_Bagging/vacuum_bagging.html


Here are some other methods of vacuum bagging to discus.

Infusion is a method of transferring or introducing resin into the reinforcing layer. To transfer you need pressure or create a difference of pressure from the atmosphere to the part.

Resin Transfer Method (RTM) is a method wherein the resin is transferred or infused to the reinforcing fibers by a pressure pump, no vacuum. This requires a heavy inner and outer mold.

RTM- VAT is resin transfer using both pressure and vacuum assist to pull the resin in. A closed mold or vacuum bag is used. This technology was the common term when it was slowly being adapted in the U.S.

RTM VIP- Resin Transfer Molding Vacuum Infusion Process is now the most widely used term by the composite industry.

VARTM- Vacuum Assist Resin Transfer Method is purely vacuum to transfer the resin under a closed mold or vacuum bagged mold.

LRTM- Light Resin Transfer Molding came into development in Belgium about 20 years ago. It is a process where pressure pump was used to transfer resin and vacuum was used to assist. Vacuum was low, about 20 in.

Another variation of this is VARTM- UV curing, vacuum bagged process.
Vacuum bagging- prepreg molding is a process where there is no resin transfer because the resin is already impregnated into the reinforcing material and you have to cook it in an oven.

As with all of the process described, not ordinary off the shelf material will work. Resins and fabric works hand in hand to make the process work as well as the correct vacuum pressure profile over a period of time. When overdone, another problem creeps in. The laminate becomes thinner due to reduced resin content than was originally designed for. A thin laminate flexes more and stiffness is a function of thickness. Care must be exercised that there is no major deviation from design.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
you owe me another keyboard.
I just spit coke all over this one.

From my experience.... you must continually move from the standing to squating position... oh..sorry- wrong type of bagging.

Seriously- I would love to learn how to do this someday as well... kudos mark.... hope some people respond with some good info for you.
 
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