Trim System Information

In order for me to get a bit more clarity on trim systems, I wanted to ask a few questions that I am having trouble with.

1. What type of cable is used with a basic trim system? Is it like a steering cable or more like a throttle cable?
2. Through the hull, what type of fitting is used to keep the cable water tight? Like the steering cable has the grommet and nut that keep the cable sealed where it enters the trough hull tube.
3. Are reduction nozzles specific to the trim system itself?
4. Are steering nozzles specific to the trim system?
5. Are trim systems generally a finicky item or hold up pretty well with a little maintenance?

Just wondering if its worthwhile for my build. I'm leaning towards yes. I think it would be pretty helpful in the surf, if the nose of the ski is starting to dig. :)
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
1. More like a beafy throttle cable
2. For through hull I've used McMaster cord grips threaded into PVC through hull tube and it worked well. Most AM hulls have a open tube just slightly bigger than the cable itself. Most AM hulls have a scupper so what's 1 more hull but for a sealed ski what runs bilges I'd seal it. https://www.mcmaster.com/cord-grips Make sure to filter by 'submersible' on the left
3. You just need a reduction nozzle that accepts a trim ring and can bolt up to your stator
4. Most can interchange
5. Search 'CATS trim system' if you want a good but budget system.
 
1. I can vouch for Xscream cable and RRP cable they are heavier than a throttle cable but lighter than a steering cable. More similiar to the steering cable in construction. I think some people do home job settups with mountain bike brake cables but have not tried myself.

2. Usually it's a tube and you put a little rubber booty on the the end of the tube that seals the cable to the tube. Xscream uses a gromet. Unlike the steering cable the trim cable is not secured by the seal, the cable is held in place by a bracket on the steering nozzle and the seal is just a seal.

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3. Sometimes. Often it's just a trim ring that you install on a stock nozzle (sometimes there are minor modifications needed), sometimes it's a complete system with a reduction nozzle and steering nozzle that are specific to the trim system.

4. Same as number 3

5. I've had minimal trouble with mine, and mine are pieced together with used and homemade parts. I don't do 20 foot backflips though. Mine have all been finicky to get initially set up, partly that's because they were pieced together with used and homemade parts, but partially that's also because watercraft aftermarket stuff doesn't ever "just work", it always requires some fiddling around to get it to fit/work.
 
1. A lot of people use a bicycle brake cable but there are specific trim cables from blowsion, protec, etc. I just build my own cable that way I can run a stainless steel core wire. I like to run 5/64 cable cause its bigger than most aftermarket cables and I have yet to brake one.
2. Depends on the hull. My favorite way is PVC tube through the tray area and use a cord grip so that its easy to adjust the length of the cable, put it in, take it out and its 100% sealed. That being said the pump tunnel on my freaks are too tight for that so I have some siliconed into the tube or even heat shrink tubing to try and seal it to the through hull tube.
3. Either get a reduction nozzle that`s setup for trim or weld bosses onto yours.
4. I think so? I have always bought yamaha factory trim setups and modified them for more throw.
5. Mine have been trouble free, In all reality I put trim on the first ski because I thought I needed it, the last 3 skis that I have built have trim also but thats because they all had trim nozzles with the pump and tubes already in the ski. I really don`t use the trim that much. If its a short hull that you plan on flipping it might be worth it. but for a recreational full length ski I probably wouldn`t put it on if it was any extra effort.
 
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