The Opposite of Bogging FX-1/Super Jet

[E350]

Well @JC-SuperJet , I put the stronger battery in, charge it up fully, made sure that the terminals were tight.
And rode today and absolutely nothing has changed.
It still wants to jerk my arms off.
Slow to . . . 3/4 WOT and then when I slow down again it is slow to 3/4 WOT.
Absolutely no mid-range whatsoever.

Ok guys, any suggestions?

FYI, the attached Brave AI discussion is somewhat helpful. Here is a snip from it:



The engine is 30 years old. But the compression was 144 lbs. in the rear cylinder and 146 lbs. in the front. But I think I read somewhere that you could have good compression but still be sucking in air from the crank seals.

I think I will try the carburetor cleaner spray around seal and gasket areas for potential vacuum leaks and will report back.

 

[JC-SuperJet]

Check for Air Leaks in the Engine, but also along the Exhaust System all the way to the Water Box. You can spray soapy water along the Exhaust System but not the running Engine.

Is your Water box made of Fiberglass? The FG Water boxes are riveted and, then after time, the mandrels fall out leaving open rivet holes, i.e. Air Leaks.

But I'm guessing that your issue is Electrical. It could be that your Stator Plate is loose or one of the Coils is bad. Spark Plug wires could be broken. Trim the Wires back and reinstall the Spark Plug Boots. Check for continuity.

See Jetski Solutions electrical trouble-shooting Guide:

This applies for most any ignition problem with the 701 61X or 62T series ignition components.
1. check the AC output of the "charge" coil. Don't get confused with the term "charge" coil......this is what Yamaha calls it, as it "charges" the cdi capacitor. This coil can generate in excess of 500 volts!!
Dis- connect the brown / white trace wire and ground wire and connect the meter leads to these wires, and while cranking the engine, observe the reading. You should have 30 to 50 volts AC depending on how good a battery and starter you have.


2. Check the pulser coil output. It's job is to tell the cdi when to fire the energy stored in the capacitor. Dis- connect the white / red trace wire and connect the meter leads to this wire and the ground wire. You should get a pulsating 4 to 5 volts AC. (ps, an analog meter is best for this test)


3. If you are having problems with the battery not recharging, then dis- connect the two green wires and read the cranking voltage produced by the "lighting" coil. This coil's name is a throw back from the old enduro bike days, when the manufacturer would add a coil to the stator to operate head, brake and turn signal lights....without a battery, and later with. Anyway, you should see 6 to 10 volts or so here, again AC. This coil puts out close to 20+ volts AC, to be recitified to DC and regulated at 13.5 or so to recharge the battery. This coil is rated to generate up to about 2amps of charging current. This in mind, beware when running two bilge pumps.....a battery going bad (high internal resistance) and two bilge pumps running for a extending time is just enough to cook a lighting coil.


4. Ignition coil. Not many folks do not have a meter capable of resolving the almost dead short of the primary on this coil. But if you do, the resistance should be .078 to .106 DON'T forget to subtract the meter leads resistance by shorting together and subtracting, or adjusting the zero ohms pot, if you have it. Also, remove and insert the leads in the sockets to clean the connection.....I often see 1 ohm or more go down to .2 or .3 by performing this task.
NEXT, check the health of your spark plug wires, or high tension wires as the Brits like to say. The only way to test them properly is to remove the boots and get to the end of the wire. You can try jamming the point of the meter probes into the end, but due to the dirt and metal dust, it often does NOT give a solid connection / reading. If you have electrical contact cleaner, by all means spray with that first. You should read 3500 to 4700 ohms, or 3.5 to 4.7K ohms STEADY....while flexing the wires from end to end. If you get any fluctuations, they are bad...IE breaking up inside, turning to a high resistance powder of metal and rubber. I have seen bad plug wires cause problems with idle and low speed only, mid range only, and high speed only, and every combination thereof. Very strange !!!


If all these check out good, then I would swap the cdi with a known good unit....and known good means just what it says.....you have had it running in your boat, you removed it, and you put it away..The only other known good is a new unit. I have heard many a sad tale of days of trouble shooting with no luck, only to find out that the "known good" cdi your buddy gave or loaned you was not good after all.


Another interesting point is the "sparks when you let off the start button" syndrome. This always means on of two things......the cdi is bad, or the pulser coil is bad, or the wire from it to the e box is open.


Another good point to keep in mind: it is very possible to have two problems going on at once. One, like bad plug wires may have going on for a while, but no creating any major problems....the performance degrades so slowly you really don't notice it. Then, the charge coil insulation starts breaking down, or the connection from the winding to the terminal posts goes bad and starts arcing over. The two combined creat havoc, and can make diagnosis difficult.
After seeing so many stator coils have a good resistance, but test bad....I strongly advise against using resistance readings alone a gauge of health. Perform the cranking voltage output test!! Resistance readings are still useful for some work, so here they are for 61X and 62T:


61X: charge coil, brown / white trace to ground / black: 365 +- 10%
Pulser coil, white / red trace to ground / black: 12.6 to 15.4


62T: Charge coil, brown / white trace to ground / black: 497 to 608
Pulser coil, same as above
Lighting coil, green / green wires: 1.14 to 1.40 Since this coil is not grounded in any way to the stator frame, you can check this coil for leakage to ground (indicating bad insulation) by measuring between either green wire and ground with your meter set on the highest ohms scale, usually 20 to 40 meg ohms. If you get any reading, the coil is going bad.
There are other tests we perform to positively verify a coil's health, but the equipment is specialized and the proceedure is beyond the scope of this posting.
A note about the ignition coil: CDI ignition coils are much different than the coils in many cars, especially older cars. Those coils operate on the "collapsing magnetic field" principle to create the high voltage. CDI ignition coils are in essence "step up transformers" simular to any any plug in wall transformer to operate various devices. The output is directly proportional to the input.
Another interesting proceedure you can do to gain more information about your coil's health.......hook your meter up to any coil, set it on the highest scale, and observe the reading. Leaving it there for an hour or more and come back and see what it reads. A lower reading or higher reading, or a reading that will not stabilize indicates a bad, or going bad coil. This may only work with better quality meters.


Some of this applies to Kawasaki too. If you want more info on Kawasaki, as well as Polaris, please contact John at Jet Ski Solutions

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I am just the opposite , I am thinking it's not electrical , usually when it's electrical it starts to skip , bust up , miss whatever you want to call it or it gradually loses power and gets slower and slower till it cuts off , none of this is happening from what I have read here .

That MSD enhancer has me kinda worried though , just for fun he might want to find a good stock CDI , install it and run the ski to rule that one out , as I already stated I have ne experience with those and I don't know what happens when one of those wigs out , if the timing is jumping around yeah that woud definatly affect the powerband .

Maybe stick a timing light on it and see what it is doing just to be sure.

 

[E350]

Update: I idled the ski on the trailer and sprayed carb cleaner on every joint in the manifold and carb and also on the crankshaft where it exits the crank case and the engine did not increase in rpm.

I took the coupler cover off to make sure that I was hitting the crank with the carb cleaner straw and it still did not increase rpm. And I even sprayed carb cleaner on everything mentioned above at mid-throttle to increase vacuum at the crank shaft, etc. and it still did not increase in rpm.

So, I have to make a decision to take the fuel tank and the water box out and inspect it or take the MSD Enhancer CDI out of the Electrical Box and replace it with the stock oem CDI (which I have somewhere).

But since it doesn't jump up rpm on the trailer at home, it seems like the problem might be water related so I think I will look at the water box next.

I have never inspected a water box yet, so I will be looking for damage and will report back.

WFO, I have rebuilt the distributor in my 1995 Ford Bronco and then timed it.

But how, where, do you hook up the timing light and time a 701?

 

[kevbo]

Finding a light that works with an msd may be difficult. You will also need to make a mark and a pointer on either the flywheel or coupler. most people just line up the stator marks and not worry about the actual timing.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

The issue is from what you have stated is there is little to point the way to your actual problem , you are going to have to do some Scooby Doo detective work on this one, all anyone here can do is give you their best educated guesses .

 

[E350]

While placing another order today with Joey at High Speed Industries highspeedind.com today, I told him that I thought that my MSD Enhancer was possibly defective and he told me to send it to him and that he would send it to MSD for testing. So, I will today.

Here is why I think the MSD Enhancer is possibly defective.

My MSD Enhancer has a "hole shot" feature, which is described as follows:



The ski jumps immediately from low speed rpm to ¾ WOT.Could my problem be caused by the "hole shot" feature on my MSD Enhancer becoming activated? While the MSD Enhancer worked as normal when I received it in August of last year (I know what "normal" is because I have the MSD Enhancer in three other skis), the problem started happening in June of this year and it is consistent and I cannot avoid it and I have gone through the entire fuel system and carb including changing out to another known good carb. So, I wonder if the hole shot feature has activated itself? It is going in the mail to Joey today to be sent it in to MSD to have it tested.

 

[fastgtfairlane]

Do you have a stock cdi you could try? That will tell you if your msd is bad without sending it off.

 

[mikesx]

Do you have a stock cdi you could try? That will tell you if your msd is bad without sending it off.

If E has a B pipe on that FX with a 122 pump he’s probably just going hit the rev limiter with the stock CDI. For comparative trouble shooting I keep a rev limit delete CDI on hand, like the kind you get from Jet Ski Solutions, real handy for ruling out stator and ignition coil problems. Might want to try that, I picked mine up on Ebay for $65 a couple years back. Or just do the rev limit delete mod to the stocker.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

If E has a B pipe on that FX with a 122 pump he’s probably just going hit the rev limiter with the stock CDI. For comparative trouble shooting I keep a rev limit delete CDI on hand, like the kind you get from Jet Ski Solutions, real handy for ruling out stator and ignition coil problems. Might want to try that, I picked mine up on Ebay for $65 a couple years back. Or just do the rev limit delete mod to the stocker.

first line on the first post : 1995 FX-1 with Single carb 701, MSD Enhancer, stock oem exhaust.

 

[mikesx]

first line on the first post : 1995 FX-1 with Single carb 701, MSD Enhancer, stock oem exhaust.

Ooops! Then try the stocker…

 

[holygoat]

While placing another order today with Joey at High Speed Industries highspeedind.com today, I told him that I thought that my MSD Enhancer was possibly defective and he told me to send it to him and that he would send it to MSD for testing. So, I will today.

Here is why I think the MSD Enhancer is possibly defective.

My MSD Enhancer has a "hole shot" feature, which is described as follows:

View attachment 458140

The ski jumps immediately from low speed rpm to ¾ WOT.Could my problem be caused by the "hole shot" feature on my MSD Enhancer becoming activated? While the MSD Enhancer worked as normal when I received it in August of last year (I know what "normal" is because I have the MSD Enhancer in three other skis), the problem started happening in June of this year and it is consistent and I cannot avoid it and I have gone through the entire fuel system and carb including changing out to another known good carb. So, I wonder if the hole shot feature has activated itself? It is going in the mail to Joey today to be sent it in to MSD to have it tested.

Easy test would be ground the pink wire and see if it changes the operation. Should severely limit the RPM. I bought a "bad running" SJ from a guy who inadvertently had the pink wire grounded. Oops.