nick chastain
in love with waves
- Location
- in the valley
that prop is not stock It normally will say the pitch towards the bottom. IMO i think it looks like a skat prop
650/X-2 The Begining...
- Thread starter tomthewakeboarder
- Start date
- Location
- Canada eh?
Does anyone have a good solution to prevent the exhaust seam from popping off. The joint where the main pipe connects to the cone keeps coming off on me no matter how tight I make it and I even have the good Westcoast clamps that tighten onto each other. Should I maybe replace te rubber? And I wouldn't even know where to get a piece that size. Any tricks are much appreciated, I hate riding back with the hood up.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Stock props are aluminum. That prop is stainless.
Looks like the clearance is tight on the left side, but there's a big gap on the bottom. The stainless sleeves warp some. That gap getting too big will start loss off power followed by cavitation. Also, when one part of the stainless liner bows out, another bows in, which causes the prop to drag the liner and wears the edge of the prop. If you have a large gap and your prop is dragging the liner, you may what to consider getting a new liner put in (I got mine for $300, I did it because I was putting in a newer prop I didn't want to drag).
Also tho, getting a new liner for a worn down prop may give you other clearance issues, resulting in a need to get the prop refurbished. No harm in running it the way it is if it's working ok, just some things to consider.
You should be able to turn the drive shaft and look b/t the blades towards the back of the prop. Skat-trak props are labeled neat the back of the prop.
Right now I have a 10/18 Skat and it's too small. The motor revs faster than the boat moves, and the boat continues to accelerate even after the motor has stopped reving. Should have a SXR prop soon.
Looks like the clearance is tight on the left side, but there's a big gap on the bottom. The stainless sleeves warp some. That gap getting too big will start loss off power followed by cavitation. Also, when one part of the stainless liner bows out, another bows in, which causes the prop to drag the liner and wears the edge of the prop. If you have a large gap and your prop is dragging the liner, you may what to consider getting a new liner put in (I got mine for $300, I did it because I was putting in a newer prop I didn't want to drag).
Also tho, getting a new liner for a worn down prop may give you other clearance issues, resulting in a need to get the prop refurbished. No harm in running it the way it is if it's working ok, just some things to consider.
You should be able to turn the drive shaft and look b/t the blades towards the back of the prop. Skat-trak props are labeled neat the back of the prop.
Right now I have a 10/18 Skat and it's too small. The motor revs faster than the boat moves, and the boat continues to accelerate even after the motor has stopped reving. Should have a SXR prop soon.
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