Tearing down to crankshaft

cmg

Proud Dad!!
Location
Olympia, WA
I now have to replace the seals on my crankshaft for my 97' SJ. This is going to be my first time tearing down an engine. Excited but a little nervous. Not to mention pissed off that I can't ride right now. Anyways,....

Is there a good list of parts/supplies to get prior to starting this job (i.e. gaskets, lubes,parts that can't be re-used...)? Any recommendations for brands would be good too?

I have the manual and have done a lot of research so hopefully I can make this happen. Any help is appreciated though.
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
I would use factory Yamaha crank seals and Three Bond 1211 between the case halves. I've found that Yamabond-4 dries before you can get the cases together and the Three Bond 1211 gives you more working time before it starts to dry. Just follow all the instruction in your manual and put some good waterproof grease on the around the inner edges of the new seals before installing them.

http://216.37.204.206/xtremepowersports/yamaha_oem/yamahapwc.asp
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
head and base gaskets you will need, and get some LONG zip ties to help you recompress the piston rings when you go back together.

Pull the flywheel and coupler before you tear it all down, its probably easier.
 

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
head and base gaskets you will need, and get some LONG zip ties to help you recompress the piston rings when you go back together.

Pull the flywheel and coupler before you tear it all down, its probably easier.


NO

You do not need to pull the cylinder or head for seals only
. Just pull the lower case half off and pull the crank out enough to get the seals off and on. Just did mine this way a few weeks ago. I use yamabond on the case half’s 1211 is also the same thing and works very well.

Mark44
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
TRUE.

I didnt think of doing it that way.

when he said "tear it down"

I assumed he was going in from the top.

if you ONLY remove the bottom case half then you dont need the base/cylinderhead gaskets.

You might still benifit from the zip ties though, if you end up getting the crank that far up ( you should be able to do it without though, just as Mark says)





NO

You do not need to pull the cylinder or head for seals only
. Just pull the lower case half off and pull the crank out enough to get the seals off and on. Just did mine this way a few weeks ago. I use yamabond on the case half’s 1211 is also the same thing and works very well.

Mark44
 

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
TRUE.

I didnt think of doing it that way.

when he said "tear it down"

I assumed he was going in from the top.

if you ONLY remove the bottom case half then you dont need the base/cylinderhead gaskets.

You might still benifit from the zip ties though, if you end up getting the crank that far up ( you should be able to do it without though, just as Mark says)

Yep you only need to pull the crank up and inch or so. The pistons will stay in the sleeve.:biggthumpup: It will save you a few bucks. I got my seals from Jet ski solutions he also has yamabond if needed.

Mark44

Mark44
 
Y

yamaslut

Guest
I just replaced my seals w/o touching the top end...
yamabond 4 on the cases
 

cmg

Proud Dad!!
Location
Olympia, WA
Thanks a lot guys. My original plan was to go in from the top by following the manual but what you suggest makes a heck of a lot more sense and less work. I appreciate the advice. Who doesn't want to save a few bucks and hours when they can too.
 

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
t

Thanks a lot guys. My original plan was to go in from the top by following the manual but what you suggest makes a heck of a lot more sense and less work. I appreciate the advice. Who doesn't want to save a few bucks and hours when they can too.

Sweet just take your time and clean the case real good before you seal it back up. It is an easy job.

Mark44
 
I use 1211 on my rebuilds and have had great luck with it - also, I would suggest putting a bit of heat on the stator bolts and then using a drill on high torque/low speed setting with a wide flathead bit to get the stator bolts out - the 2 motors I rebuilt yesterday and today had those little things on damn tight! Good luck - go with OEM seals and scrape the old sealant off good and you will be fine.
 
Yamabond is discontinued. I work at a yamaha dealer. If you can still buy it its just what the company you buy it from has left in stock. Threebond is what we sell in place of it.
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Maybe that would explain why it's drying so fast, probably old stock.

I just bought some from Parker Yamaha a few months ago. When I applied it around the cases it started to coagulate and harden before I could get them together.
 

douglee25

m3booooy
Location
South Jersey
I use 1211 on my rebuilds and have had great luck with it - also, I would suggest putting a bit of heat on the stator bolts and then using a drill on high torque/low speed setting with a wide flathead bit to get the stator bolts out - the 2 motors I rebuilt yesterday and today had those little things on damn tight! Good luck - go with OEM seals and scrape the old sealant off good and you will be fine.

A better solution instead of heat and a drill is an impact driver. I can't tell you how handy these things are. I use it all the time. Stator screws, carb screws, motorcycle case screws, etc.

Doug


http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
 
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