Tear down in process but i cant figure out these wires?!

[Shadow7874]

Ive been disconcerting everything and ive got my engine 95% out but there is a set of wires coming from the ebox going to the flywheel area and a wire also coming from the ebox going to the head. Neither one has some kind of disconnect that i can see so do i need to take apart the ebox or what?
its a 61x in my fx1 FYI

 

[ger87410]

I don't know FX1, but it sounds like the stator wires and some sort of head temp sensor.

The disconnect for the stator, for my ski, was in the ebox.

 

[keefer]

No big deal, most peeps just disconnect the e-box from its two mounts and remove it with the engine. If you do not want to do this then you can remove the flywheel cover & the flywheel and unbolt the stator. The overheat sensor just sits inside the head and is held in by the plate above it. Remove two bolts and it will pull right out. It is easier to pull the e-box with the engine IMO. Good luck.

 

[Shadow7874]

Thanks guys, im grabbing some lunch then ill be back out to do that. Also there was a grease fitting mounted to the engine that had a line that run toward the firewall. Whats that for and should i grease it or anything?

 

[Liquid Graffix]

Pull the ebox out WITH the motor. 2 bolts hold it to the firewall. Once you have it out then you can crack open the box and disconnect it from inside. The wire to the head is just a temp sensor. You don't need it. Most people just cut it off inside the box and then silicone the top of the box where it came through.

The fitting is for the PTO. Should have a nipple with a short tube running down to the midshaft. Make sure you grease it.

 

[Rickster]

Pull the ebox out WITH the motor. 2 bolts hold it to the firewall. Once you have it out then you can crack open the box and disconnect it from inside. The wire to the head is just a temp sensor. You don't need it. Most people just cut it off inside the box and then silicone the top of the box where it came through.

The fitting is for the PTO. Should have a nipple with a short tube running down to the midshaft. Make sure you grease it.

Or you can cut the stator wires and re-connect using a 4-pin waterproof Deutsch connectors and be done with it...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DEUT...7d9QQitemZ250236700633QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

:bananalama:

 

[Waternut]

I ended up removing that grease fitting on the engine and just greasing the midshaft manually. That tube always got clogged up on mine.

 

[Shadow7874]

Well i got the motor pulled heads pulled and cylinders pulled and the damage may not be as bad as i thought but its not pretty. Ive got some pics ill upload later but from my point of view (which is completly inexperienced in engines) it looks like the rod bearing on one of the rods blew out and there are peices below the crank and above the piston but no scratches on the cylinders at all. One of the tops of the pistons is a little eaten up as well as the dome but if its only some dings and dents should i worry about it?

Also how do i get the crank and rods apart? One rod seems to be ok but i cant tell because the other wont allow the crank to move very far.

Any idea what would cuase rod bearing to go out? id hate to rebuild and have it happen again.

Also tearing down a motor is much more simple then i thought it would be. Lets just hope i can rebuild it as well

 

[Liquid Graffix]

The only way to fix the crank is to yank it out of the cases. The bearings and rods need to be pressed off and new ones pressed on. They need to be lubed to keep them from rusting and locking up and breaking. Could be that one of the oil passages got clogged or something.

Are the cases still good? or did they get destroyed underneath by the rod?

I posted a thread on building a 701 in the TECH section. It's at the top of the page under- stickies. Check it out, it might help you.

 

[Waternut]

Well i got the motor pulled heads pulled and cylinders pulled and the damage may not be as bad as i thought but its not pretty. Ive got some pics ill upload later but from my point of view (which is completly inexperienced in engines) it looks like the rod bearing on one of the rods blew out and there are peices below the crank and above the piston but no scratches on the cylinders at all. One of the tops of the pistons is a little eaten up as well as the dome but if its only some dings and dents should i worry about it?

Also how do i get the crank and rods apart? One rod seems to be ok but i cant tell because the other wont allow the crank to move very far.

Any idea what would cuase rod bearing to go out? id hate to rebuild and have it happen again.

Also tearing down a motor is much more simple then i thought it would be. Lets just hope i can rebuild it as well

A crank won't last forever and excessive vibration from a poorly aligned engine won't help. Sounds like the bearings let go and sent shrapnel through the engine which ruined the piston and dome. I just had it happen myself. My pistons didn't look too bad at all (almost like they were sand blasted) and I posted pictures on here expecting some to say they were ok and some to say replace them. Pretty much everyone said replace them so I did. My cylinder walls were perfect though, gave them a quick hone and put the new pistons in along with my used crank.

SBT sells fairly cheap rebuilt cranks provided you send them a core. I just picked up a used on here and it's been good so far.

Pitting on the head can cause detonation if it's bad and if you're running on the edge of pump gas/running high rpms. If you haven't already, maybe now is a good time to upgrade to a girdled head.

 

[chriselmore_1]

Or you can cut the stator wires and re-connect using a 4-pin waterproof Deutsch connectors and be done with it...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DEUT...7d9QQitemZ250236700633QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

:bananalama:

what about the 5th stator wire???

 

[Rickster]

I run a six pin so whatever space is left over it is blocked off... Couldn't remember if there was four or five wires...

:beerchug: