Superjet overheating Intermediate bearing

scott3708

Scott
Location
Florida
:banghead: Help I have a 92 SJ650 and I replaced the intermediate bearing housing as my last was totally shot and grinding. Now the new bearing installed, shimmed and after 15 minutes of light breaking in the rebuilt engine the intermediate shaft is so hot it sizzles. Removed the engine and ran the bearing on a make shift drill to turn the shaft and in three minutes it was 150 degrees and rising. Let it cool removed the bearing from the ski and ran the bearing on the bench and same thing 3 min and 150 degrees and rising. The bearing is full of grease and the intermediate shaft is not bent????? Any Suggestions

92 SJ650
1mm over rebuild upper from SBT
Protect pipe
120 low jet
135 high jet
2.3 N&S
65 gram spring
shaved head 180 PSI compression
Hooker 9/15 prop
Aluminum custom water box (no Baffles)
 

scott3708

Scott
Location
Florida
Well after talking with the factory and taking it all apart the bearing when installed someone when pressing it in collapsed the side dirt seal (on the bearing itself) binding it up. They are sending a new one no charge, in the mean time we pressed out the old bearing and drove to the auto parts store and they had one 6205D is the standard part number and appearently use them in lawn mower decks! go figure. But reinstalled everything and ran it on the lake and it does get warm but no longer sizzles and seems be running at 150 degrees with the temp gun.
 
Location
dfw
There is not much of a shoulder on the shaft. Pushing it into the inner race made it too tight and run hot. This is the reason press fit (C3, C4) bearings have more internal clearance than standard. I have not had any problems using a standard 6205 in a midshaft though.
 

mxd253

MXD253
Location
EAST TN
Is this bearing you guys are talking about located under the driveshaft cover in the hull? I recently bought a 92 SJ and the past few times I have ridden I've heard and felt a growling at lower speeds under my feet. Especially coasting 1/4 throttle in a no wake zone, Jesus it feels like the foot tray is gonna vibrate in half. I did find a remote grease fitting that looks like there is a hose going down to bring grease into that area. I shot it full of good Bel-Ray waterproof grease and it helped slightly. Thanks
 

scott3708

Scott
Location
Florida
Yes when they start growling it usually means the bearing is going bad grease will quiet it if its dry and it may last the season just keep an eye on it for leaking water or excess vibration. The mid bearing is under driveshaft cover and the cover clips into a rubber tab that is mounted on the bearing housing. Just be careful and not force to much grease in it as it will push the seals out 2-3 squirts of a grease gun is good
 

mxd253

MXD253
Location
EAST TN
I'm hoping that I can get a bit more ride time out of it especially since the grease helped calm it down a bit. Any tricks to getting it done w/o pullin the ponies out?
 

scott3708

Scott
Location
Florida
All you really need to do is move the engine up towards the front 3-4 inches that usually means removing front exhaust hose and the engine mounting bolts and the battery. The trick is remembering what shims come out of what corner and to put them back respectively. Then after you scoot the engine up forward three bolts on the bearing housing (watch for more shims) and slide it off the jet shaft. The bearing housing will have two guide pins on the bottom left and right tabs they need to be in the hull side when the new bearing goes in as some of the replacement bearing housings have a deaper hole for these pins than others so if you put the stock guide pins in a deaper drilled bearing housing the pins go in flush and too deap. Just something to keep in mind that can give you a alignment headache. You'll need to press out the intermediate shaft from the old bearing. And then put it in the freezer and after greasing the bearing and seals set the new housing in the sun for about a half hour. After the alotted time tap the shaft into the housing till 3/4" protrudes out the back no more, measure from the seal to the end of the shaft be acurate and work quickly. Now is a good time to clean out the bildge and or mount an electric bilge then reinstall!
 

mightymighty2stroke

I'd rather be on the lake
Location
LKN, NC
I've got some kind of bearing problem in my 03 SJ that I am trying to hunt down. It makes a pretty distinctive bad bearing sound at anything more than 1/4 throttle. I think I am going to rebuild the pump first ($45) since it only took a few moments to take off. I pulled the pump cone off and it was full of grease, that bearing looks great. I took the spark plugs out so I could turn the midshaft, the intermediate bearing seems fine, there was no growling or play...I guess if the pump doesn't fix it I'll be swapping int. bearings. Sigh. I just bought this thing last week and only rode it for 5 minutes before realizing something was wrong. I also think it has some kind of carb problem as it just doesn't run right. Nothing more frustrating than a 'new' ski in your garage that you can't even ride.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Don't be throwing money at a pump rebuild just because it's the easiest part to remove.
If the pump shaft spins freely without noise, then it doesn't need a rebuild.
Spend some time finding the true problem.
 

mightymighty2stroke

I'd rather be on the lake
Location
LKN, NC
Don't be throwing money at a pump rebuild just because it's the easiest part to remove.
If the pump shaft spins freely without noise, then it doesn't need a rebuild.
Spend some time finding the true problem.

Any ideas on things to check then? Driveshaft seems true also.
 

mightymighty2stroke

I'd rather be on the lake
Location
LKN, NC
Don't be throwing money at a pump rebuild just because it's the easiest part to remove.
If the pump shaft spins freely without noise, then it doesn't need a rebuild.
Spend some time finding the true problem.

PS, the reason I wanted to rebuild the pump was because the sound was almost exactly the same as it was on one of my couches, before the sh*t hit the fan on that thing's pump. :(
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
If the pump bearings are making noise, then it's time to replace them.

To check the midshaft bearings, you need to move the engine forward and spin the midshaft by hand. It should be obvious if they're grinding and/or are noisy.
 
I have two skis that develop no midshaft heat in a 30 second run on the trailer...this seems to be the norm for a good bearing. I have seen bad ones get hot in only 30 seconds...
 
i put new pump bearings, mid shaft bearing and it still makes a noise. turns out its the mid shaft and the pump shaft are getting worn out. im waiting for it to just strip out completly.
 
Wanna laff - Stricky had a Blaster hull yrs ago and we cobbled it together with junk from around my old shop ( and I emphasize junk - like old fence post to splice exhaust hose together etc) to make a big surfslut gathering the next weekend.
The shaft splines were really questionable so we said screw it and cleaned all the grease off and used a good structural epoxy like Devcon on the splines and slapped it together knowing we may get 5 minutes - 5 days any more was a pipe dream.... we got YEARS out of it and come the day when the transom caved in and we had to swap to new hull we had to die grind the prop shaft off in the tunnel!

Big yes on freeze bearings/ warm up the mid housing - If i remember correctly, I used a 1 1/4" PVC coupler for a bearing driver.
 

mightymighty2stroke

I'd rather be on the lake
Location
LKN, NC
After the alotted time tap the shaft into the housing till 3/4" protrudes out the back no more, measure from the seal to the end of the shaft be acurate and work quickly.

Does this apply to an '03 SJ also? I've got the midshaft back into the bearing, but have more hanging out the back than 3/4" (an inch exactly from seal to tip of shaft). I basically pressed until it felt like it seated. Too much??
 
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