Styrofoam and Water Absorption

[njfl]

I was wondering if the styrofoam that is shoved in noses of skis and handlepoles can get waterlogged? I've never seen it happen. Has anyone?

The reason I ask, is because regardless of type, it seems that the two-part foam used to fill the rear of hulls absorbs water.

Has anyone tried using styrofoam, or wrapped styrofoam in the rear of a hull instead of pouring? I realize there would be pockets that were not "foamable" like when pouring, but this might be a way to avoid filling with/absorbing water, and would allow use of a drain plug.

 

[keefer]

I think the difference is that styrofoam is a closed cell type which will not absorb water. The two part foam that most use to refoam is open cell and can get waterlogged. I am sure there is someone out there who knows more about foam than I do and will chime in on this. All I know is that if a dog is foaming at the mouth, run away,:shooter3: if a beer has foam, drink it:beerchug: :Banane01:

 

[oxnard111]

All I know is that if a dog is foaming at the mouth, run away,:shooter3: if a beer has foam, drink it:beerchug: :Banane01:

Thats all about I know also :smile:

 

[RoyalFlush@PCB]

Didn't freestyle geek use some form of "batting" or closed cell foam to fill up his---then he poured in the two-part to fill the voids. :dunno:

 

[LANCE-LAKES]

Dow!!!!

i use the sheet's of blue dow in my ski and pack it as tight as possible,then pour foam in the front of your tray after glassed.also drill a hole over each footholed then pour in 1/2 a cup of 2 part foam,if your ski is filled enough it will do the trick.the dow does not absorb water but it takes away from a little strength:headbang: your a ss of the boat will float almost out of the water it's great and it also let's less weight from getting water in...

 

[demolition_x]

from the us composites web site...

"14. Is this foam water resistant?

Yes, but with the following caveat. The foams that we sell are considered closed-cell, which means that each cell that makes up the foam structure is completely closed off from surrounding cells which prevents it from acting like a sponge. It is completely safe for this foam to be in contact with water for hours/days/weeks and even months with no adverse effects. However, it should never be submerged in contact with water permanently. Over a period of years the water contact can begin to soften the foam and cause it to lose its closed-cell status. This foam is designed primarily to be used as an insurance policy in case of damage/holes that could cause a vessel to lose buoyancy. Pinhole sized openings would essentially have no effect on the foam since the amount of exposure is so minimal but you should always make repairs as soon as possible to keep the foam effectiveness as good as possible. This will be the case will all after market closed-cell polyurethane foams and even manufacturer installed foams."


so i guess the expanding stuff is closed cell but still absorbs water over time.

 

[LANCE-LAKES]

my friends old sxi was waterlogged in front of the waterbox and that piece was heavy.

 

[meatball]

styrofoam is very weak compared to expanding foam. The idea is to get the lightest material possible to fill the void in the hull to provide buyancy. Any foam or material in the back will rot over time with water in it. And, after a time, water action will delaminate it from the hull and break it into powder from rough action on the boat.

 

[njfl]

Hmmm.

Thanks for the input guys. Meatball's comment is pretty significant.

I like Lance-Lakes' idea of making a foam/pourable-foam composite. I've also considered something like 1/2"-1" plastic spheres combined with pourable-foam forming a composite filler, hopefully, lighter weight, but just as strong.

 

[LANCE-LAKES]

joe the dow when after mixed with the pour in foam if done properly is very solid still!every winter i de-foam and it's still as bad to get out as the oem foam:sneaky:

 

[meatball]

The DOW would seem to be a good idea with the close-cell structure. The main way to solve water problems in the hull is to simply not let it there to begin with. We have a small boat with hull issues (foam Boston Whaler) and the water got in there, and with the waves hitting the bottom, crushed up the foam in the hull and caused a massive airbubble. I hate foam...

 

[RoyalFlush@PCB]

joe the dow when after mixed with the pour in foam if done properly is very solid still!every winter i de-foam and it's still as bad to get out as the oem foam:sneaky:

:bigeyes: At first I was like, WTF?!?

But I see your in Canada, so you have PLENTY of winter time to de-foam.

 

[LANCE-LAKES]

yeah the winter's are extra long when all you do is work on your ski and then you stair at it till the seaon comes:bigeyes:

 

[meatball]

So you defoam and returf every winter for no other reason then you have the time to do it? Want to refoam my ski? The tray delaminated.

 

[LANCE-LAKES]

i always want to make sure that my hull is dry as possible and also time plays a huge factor where i live.

 

[ROTATION]

2006 Kawasaki X-2 800 has only styrofoam in it.