Surfriding Striped Manifold Factory b 62t helicoils?

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
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If you tap for larger bolts, you will have a hard time with fitting a socket on the larger bolt head. You can do it by going to the next standard size (rather than metric), but it's a tight fit.
I vote helicoil or better yet, timecert.
I'm not sure why the helicoil kit would be $130. That sounds crazy expensive.
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
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Macon, GA
I did helicoils first. They are good and last a long time. I ended up messing up my helicoils later and had to bigserts but that's another story.

My recommendation... Get 3/8-24 bolts and helicoil kit so you can get rid of those STUPID M10 impossible to find bolts. You can get 5 Stainless 3/8-24 socket head bolts (92196A365) for $6. Plus they're longer than the FP bolts and therefore have more thread contact so they're less likely to strip since the FP bolts only contact about 3-4 threads. Then get the appropriate helicoil kit which is also cheaper at $40 (91732A932). Both are cheaper than just the helicoil kit for the M10 bolts, you'll have backup bolts that don't cost $10 a piece, and if you go out of town and lose a bolt, you can go to the local hardware store and get a replacement. I'm using 3/8-24 bolts in my head pipe right now and they work great.

edit: FYI, the drill size for those standard helicoils are large enough to clean up the damage and I torque mine down to 30 ft-lbs so they're plenty strong enough even though they are slightly smaller dia bolts.
 
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thanks for the input. i did locate the correct kit on mcmaster n yes it was oly like 45$ but i did like waternut mentioned and found a 3/8-16 helicoil kit in my tool box haha stainless screws were 7$ at ace hardware. i hope the coarse thread will work fine? good bye metric!
 
I love heli-coils, but that fine thread metric bolt they use is pretty hard to thread the new coil. I've heli-coiled two of those manifold bolt holes now, and they are much stronger than the aluminum threads.
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
thanks for the input. i did locate the correct kit on mcmaster n yes it was oly like 45$ but i did like waternut mentioned and found a 3/8-16 helicoil kit in my tool box haha stainless screws were 7$ at ace hardware. i hope the coarse thread will work fine? good bye metric!

You should be fine. Just make sure your bolts have enough length on them.

Drill/tap to a bigger size then use socket head bolts.

That is actually the worst idea. Once you drill and tap to something bigger, you can never go back to anything else because the hole will be too big for even a bigsert. If you strip those new threads which is inevitable because you're still torquing in aluminum, you've trashed your manifold and possibly your head pipe as well because the thinner wall on the head pipe are now more prone to cracking.
 

Matt_E

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So.....what's the deal with stripped manifolds? I keep hearing about it, but I gotta tell ya: I've been using the same manifold since 2005 and it was used then.
I've seen it happen to other people (and I'm probably jinxing myself) but it leaves me to wonder if people should be using a torque wrench on the appropriate setting rather than manhandle those bolts by feel.
 

Matt_E

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So.....what's the deal with stripped manifolds? I keep hearing about it, but I gotta tell ya: I've been using the same manifold since 2005 and it was used then.
I've seen it happen to other people (and I'm probably jinxing myself) but it leaves me to wonder if people should be using a torque wrench on the appropriate setting rather than manhandle those bolts by feel.
 

swanny

not safe for clowns
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portland
So.....what's the deal with stripped manifolds? I keep hearing about it, but I gotta tell ya: I've been using the same manifold since 2005 and it was used then.
I've seen it happen to other people (and I'm probably jinxing myself) but it leaves me to wonder if people should be using a torque wrench on the appropriate setting rather than manhandle those bolts by feel.

old parts plus vibration and salt- wavedemon style. You are okay you got new and pretty....worry wart.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
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New and pretty? :lmao:

I've had it for six years and bought it used. Wouldn't call it new.
But I guess it's still newer than your stuff. Where you been hiding?
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I've always used a torque wrench on those bolts...nothing like that feeling you get when you're almost done and you know you're getting close to feeling that "click" on the last bolt and then the bolt gets slightly easier to turn....awesome.
 
So.....what's the deal with stripped manifolds? I keep hearing about it, but I gotta tell ya: I've been using the same manifold since 2005 and it was used then.
I've seen it happen to other people (and I'm probably jinxing myself) but it leaves me to wonder if people should be using a torque wrench on the appropriate setting rather than manhandle those bolts by feel.

Galvanic corrosion will eat up the alu. threads in the manifold, then next time you install the fasteners they may strip. Loctite or similar is an excellent corrosion barrier for dissimilar metals which I prefer. Anti-seize of course will do that too. I have several manifolds that still are not stripped after 15 years of use. Of course I've never used the original Fac. Pipe fasteners either, just the Yam cylinder retaining screws .
 

Matt_E

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Maybe that's the difference then. I've always used case bolts and grease on them.
 
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