stock head, how to dual cool?

already committed at this point, I tapped my pump and manifold... was going to go with girdled head and then a flow control valve to regulate chamber temp, but don't really feel like spending the dollars at the moment, didn't realize a head was close to 400 bills... If I do a head I might as well do pistons and rings, then see what kind of condition the crank is in, etc, I don't want to get that committed this close to summer.

where is a good spot to tap the stock head?
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
On the Yamaha heads there's some extra metal inside on the front and rear of the aluminum casting to tap with 1/8" NPT to 3/8" barb fittings.
 

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#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Use a Jetworks flow control valve if you have an A/M pipe on the stinger inlet because dual cooling outlets on the head won't dry out the pipe.
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
Don't restrict the water near the pissers, if your going to restrict do it before your lines do any cooling, reason being you'll raise the pressure of the water, just take the line and run it right to a pisser and wait till you have an a/m head
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Don't restrict the water near the pissers, if your going to restrict do it before your lines do any cooling, reason being you'll raise the pressure of the water.
What's wrong with raising the water pressure? :scratchchin:

This is a common practice in most cooling systems because it raises the boiling point of the water and helps prevent nucleate boiling.

If you restrict the lines before the engine your chances of cooking the motor are significantly increased if the line becomes partially block with debris.
 

Dustin Mustangs

uʍop ǝpıs dn
Location
Holland, MI
Not to mention the bleeders on a b-pipe are going to mist at high pressure and dribble at low pressure. The quicker you can get them to mist the better when low end power is a concern.
 
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