FX-1 Started my 650 pump swap

Looks good.........but be careful that you check where the drive shaft rides on the bearings/seals. I know peeps are running this setup, but I'm not sure how. The way I set it up, the front seal lip is set back into the housing approx 16mm. Even with this setback the seal rides close to the end of the polished area on the shaft. I've never had a problem with a seal but the Kawi setup uses 2 seals in front instead of the single seal of the Yami, so it's not only 16mm further back but there's a second seal behind that one to catch anything that may have snuck past the first seal.

I'm not saying it's going to be a problem for you, but give it a good check when you put it together. I don't see how the single seal sitting almost flush with the face of the housing will ride on the hardened seal surface of the shaft when the 16mm setback seal just makes it.

Check out the arrows in the pics, you'll see what I mean:
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0124.jpg
    DSCN0124.jpg
    51.3 KB · Views: 112
  • DSC04108.jpg
    DSC04108.jpg
    46.5 KB · Views: 123
Yeah, I left it so I could move it in more once I had the shaft here. I'll probably need to set it back more now looking at it with the shaft in. Need to flip my ski right now and look at some things. I also need to do some more adjusting to the pump mounting surface. Looks like I'll be shooting for end of next week to test it. Thought I was a bit closer.

I did get my coupler swapped though.
 
Okay, front seal did need moved back. That's done. I'm considering picking up a second seal for the front tomorrow since there is space to add one. I also had built up the rear mounting area and then took too much material off when I was leveling it. So I need to add some material there, but need to grab some resin tomorrow to do that.

Basically I tested the fit with the housing, shaft, engine, and pump in. Blah, no big deal, just wish I was a bit closer.

Edit: Ha, At halftime I checked and had enough resin left. Guess I'll see where this ends up at tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Here are some seal numbers I have ordered for my swap. Not sure how it will work out but wanted to pass this on to every one.

Seals are SKF/Chicago Rawhide numbers

563167 single lip, fluro rubber, stainless steel garter spring 52x20x7
563168 double lip, fluro rubber, stainless steel garter spring 52x20x7

I think the 563168 would be a better choice for the front if the seals are riding close to the edge. Should give better sealing at the pump cavity end also.

Bearing should be a 6304 type. Differant variations for sealing the bearing, plastic standard duty and steel for severe duty, probably a few more also. I am going to use a standard duty. with the seals I think a standard duty bearing should be enough.

This bearing is also available in stainless steel but I think it is weaker and rpm limit is lower then the standard steel bearing.

All I need is the prop I want and pump cone and time. The crew and I are still riding every sunday hopefully through the winter.

Keep us posted on the task at hand Jinx and good luck
 
I did get the pump all aligned and mounted last night. Was going to finish working on the inserts today, but my back acted up this morning so it will have to wait until tomorrow.

Need to finish the inserts, tap the pump, some finishing sanding in the pump shoe, and a little more work on the intake grate mounting hole. Oh yeah, I need a knob to finish the trim nozzle like JD's. Then I can throw it all together and give it a test run this week.

Will post some pics tomorrow.
 
Sp pump is all mounted and seems aligned properly with shaft in. Tomorrow I'll tap the pump, grind out the ride plate to clear, and I can start putting it together to give it a test run. My trim knob is kind of ghetto, but it's just there for test purposes. I plan on cleaning it up after I get some time on it to make sure things are good. Got a piece of square purple turf to throw on top of the tray where I only cut some of the turf away for glassing.
 

Attachments

  • DSC04115.jpg
    DSC04115.jpg
    71.3 KB · Views: 94
Last edited:
So I lag, but yesterday I finally got around to trying out the pump swap.

First off it was cold, I got there late in the day, and I had some technical issues, but I did get some pump time. I forgot to tighten some bolts which led to me flooding my engine compartment in a matter of minutes. Fixed the problem and ended up with a dead battery. After a jump and then borrowing a battery I finally got to beat on the ski a little.

Wow the results were good. Even without the proper Impeller (Skat straight 16), tuning being off (temp is like 20-30 degrees colder), and my engine needs freshened up, It hooked up much better. Pulled a little harder on bottom. The response at mid rpm when I opened it up was significantly crisper. I actually pulled something in my left shoulder from opening it up at mid rpm and getting yanked. Handling seemed good, I didn't really hit any hard carves or turning as it was cold and I'm a *****. It did seem more stable, slightly more responsive, and smoother in the steering though.

I did have one small hick up which could be a combination of tuning and impeller size. I would open it up at idle and run all the way to top speed. About mid way through I would get a small "burst" of cavitation and then it would immediately yank hard. Nothing horrible in anyway, it really felt like the engine jumped in power at that point in the rpms, and it took the pump a split second to pull some extra water. As i said it was a split second and the ski basically hopped and then pulled hard. Don't know if that makes sense.

I did also get to play with the trim a little. Wow! I had it set up for nose down at first and it was a bit more stable at high speed. I ended up adjusting it for maximum trim nose up and it made a huge difference. My 130 lbs had to struggle to get the nose out of the water with the Pro-Tec plate before. With the trim up I just stood at the back and the nose would ride high, blip the throttle and I was vertical without even pulling or doing anything other than holding on. One down side, the cheapy knob I bought as a temp adjuster broke off during the last ride, no big deal as I just had it on their to try it out before I made a more solid one.

Basically top end was the same, bottom end and mid were much more responsive and overall pull was harder and smoother. This was on a 61x/64x conversion with just a b-pipe (ported manifold/head pipe) and rev limiter mod.

Important thing was my alignment seemed fine. Now I can clean up the garage and get this thing ready for paint, engine rebuild, etc. I'll be rebuilding the engine with a girdled head, minor freestyle porting, lightened flywheel, cold fusion couplers, and hopefully a wet jet mani and reworked 46 carb.
 

Attachments

  • aPolar Bear Ride 1-1-10 011.jpg
    aPolar Bear Ride 1-1-10 011.jpg
    78.8 KB · Views: 71
With the 650 swap is it necessary to cut out the top of the tray to lay additional fiberglass around the intake area before grinding out for the 650 shoe/pump to fit? Or is the only glass work that is necessary to fill the holes in the tray area, then cut down and glass the underside of the tray flat for the pump? Sorry I'm sure this question is answered somewhere I just have not come across it yet. Thanks for the help.
 
it is easiest to cutout the top of tray and lay up additinal glass to the pump shoe area from the inside of the hull. When you do it this way, it is very simple non critical layups that are required (good for 1st time glass workers). Once you've laid up a few layers of glass on the top side of the shoe area, then you flip the ski over and can carefully grind away material until the pump fits properly....then it's done.

If you choose to do it all from the bottom of the ski, the glass work to the shoe area must be much more accurate and more difficult for those less experienced with glass work.

Either way you go, you also need remove material at the stock front pump mounting area and fill in the existing recesses in the tray where the factory threaded inserts went.

The other advantage to cutting out the tray is you can eliminate any wet foam and better seal the waterlines, driveshaft tube, and steering cable tube while you're in there....I can almost guarantee you they leak!
 
What kinda prop options are there for the 650 pump? Im working on ordering parts for the conversion but i havent heard much about which prop would be best. Im all stock at the moment but hopefully adding a b-pipe in the future
 
Top Bottom