Custom/Hybrid Special custom Hydro-Dipping offer for forum members!

[Liquid Graffix]

Pre-Winter Build Special – Exclusively for Forum members:

Make your watercraft stand out! Hydro dip any combination of 2 parts listed below for only$50.00
Pick 2 parts, mail themin and we will custom dip them and send them back ready to install on yourski! Choose from any of the 18patterns in stock. Turn aroundtime is usually 2 weeks or less.

Check us out at http://www.liquidgraffix.com to view film patterns.

E-box (front plastic cover and back aluminum cover)
Stock head
Stator cover
Front nose plastic cover
Mid shaft plastic cover
Firewall outer plastic stock cover
Lower handle pole plastic cover





The fine print:
*Parts must use the same color Base Coat and be dipped in the same Film.
*Customer is responsible for shipping and return shipping charges to/from S. California.
*Aluminum parts such as head, stator cover, and backside of e-box mustalready be sandblasted and free of any existing paint.


Questions:

Can I do one part with CF film and the other part in a different film?
Yes, but there is a fee of only $15 for changing films.

Can I change the base coat of one of the parts?
Yes. There is a $25 fee for changing colors.

I don't have access to a sandblasting cabinet, can you strip may parts for me?
Yes. For this special promotion and in order to keep the cost down, prep time on all aluminum parts will be an extra fee of $40.

Can I send in another part to be done with the other 2?
Yes. Any additional part will be $20 and will be done in the same Base Coat and Film as the original 2 promotional parts.


Avail. Base Coats: Black, White, Yellow, Silver, Light Tan



***We can gladly do other parts not listed above, please inquire for a price quote.***

 

[FearMyWrX]

You have some interesting patters...

What is the durability of getting something hydro dipped compared to other things like powder coating, anodizing?

Whats it's biggest enemy/weakness; Scratching, peeling, chipping, fading/discoloration?

 

[DAG]

Can you do poles yet?

 

[Liquid Graffix]

You have some interesting patters...

What is the durability of getting something hydro dipped compared to other things like powder coating, anodizing?

Whats it's biggest enemy/weakness; Scratching, peeling, chipping, fading/discoloration?

Durability comes with the type of paint and clear that is used. We use a PPG paint system designed for automotive use.

Can you do poles yet?

Yes I was going to try to do mine before World Finals but I ran out of time. If i end up keeping my ski then I will do mine.

 

[FearMyWrX]

Durability comes with the type of paint and clear that is used. We use a PPG paint system designed for automotive use.

That really tells me nothing. Automotive paint chips, scratches, and fades/discolors overtime.

Im sure thats not the impression your wanting to be left. Maybe you can clarify a little more?

Can you do perfectly circular things, RRP pole tubes for example?

 

[XJCrawler]

That really tells me nothing. Automotive paint chips, scratches, and fades/discolors overtime.

Im sure thats not the impression your wanting to be left. Maybe you can clarify a little more?

Can you do perfectly circular things, RRP pole tubes for example?

You can hydro dip circular things, but there will be a seem

 

[Liquid Graffix]

The process is just like a paint job, with one extra step by adding the film. The part is prepped just as it would to be painted, then the base coat is applied. Then the part is dipped through the film and the film then bonds to the part. After it has been rinsed and dried, it is then clear coated.

So treat it like a paint job. If done correctly, it will last.

The more layers of clear, the better the protection. Each clear has UV rating and ours is rated to be good for up to 5 years in direct sunlight. Many of the ski parts, unless they are body panels, aren't exposed to that amount of sunlight so obviously the life will be longer.

You can do damage to almost any type of coating - powder coating can get dented... anodizing can be scratched... etc.

I did do a test on my pit bike and I coated the side engine cover and plastics but I purposely did NOT clear coat the side plastics and I only lightly cleared the side cover to see exactly how durable the process is without multiple layers of protection or any protection at all.
On the side plastics, the film still looks like the day it was done. The side cover has some scratches like all dirtbike covers do from your boots, but they have not gone through the layer of clear to actually get in to the film.



Yes -parts can be coated 360 degrees around - such as RRP pole tubes - but there will be a seem where the film meets. One way to sort of get around it is by using certain patterns that will blend better than others. For example - Camos and other specialty patterns are really good at blending back to itself.