Smoothin the hull
- Thread starter aggro
- Start date
- Location
- Mechanicsburg, PA
Epoxy resin with microballoon filler.
So i decide to use some epoxy resin...and fix the scrapes on the bottom of my hull.
After two applications of resin and sanding, It's ready to be primed..
so reading on the internet about painting fiberglass...all say the same thing...prep sand using 80 grit sandpaper and use a good fiberglass primer paint before painting.. I decided to use a pneumatic sprayer (just bought on ebay for $30.00) instead of rolling it on since there are so many valleys on the bottom of the hull.
color is white BTW.
Does anybody have any insight before I start spraying in a few days?
I'm a little worried about the primer I chose...it's a plastic white primer spraycan....i hope it will do!
prep Pics tomorrow.
After two applications of resin and sanding, It's ready to be primed..
so reading on the internet about painting fiberglass...all say the same thing...prep sand using 80 grit sandpaper and use a good fiberglass primer paint before painting.. I decided to use a pneumatic sprayer (just bought on ebay for $30.00) instead of rolling it on since there are so many valleys on the bottom of the hull.
color is white BTW.
Does anybody have any insight before I start spraying in a few days?
I'm a little worried about the primer I chose...it's a plastic white primer spraycan....i hope it will do!
prep Pics tomorrow.
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norcal ex
X-H2
- Location
- San Jose, CA
depending on the paint there is no need to prime
Oh really?
so whats the best paint to use?
I read somewhere that rustoleum works wonders
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Go ahead and prime it,it will fill in some of the finer scratches,wetsand it with 320-400 grit and then you are ready to spray,if you are spraying white take your time,the first coat is just a tack coat,do not try to fully cover the surface in the first coat,on the next coat you may try for full coverage but don't overdo it,give your self at least 15 minutes flash time between coats,it is much better with white to go with 5 or 6 very light coats to achieve full coverage as white runs very easily.The good news is once you learn to spray white any other color is a piece of cake.I learned with Sherwin Williams automotive white paint and after that horrible experience anything else was a cakewalk.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Rustolium is good if you want cheap paint that can easily be touched up when it scratches. It's a 50 foot paint (which means your ski looks great from 50feet away or farther.) It scratches off easily. My ski (which is currently in my avatar) is rustolium. It looks good in the picture becauase of the 50' aspect.
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WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
The best cheap paint I can recommend is PPG industrial paint,its $40.00 or so a gallon,its ready to spray,you can add a urethane converter to it for a few dollars more.
So I talked with a great guy I buy parts from...Bruce from jetsport
and turns out, he painted professionally for 30 years...he recommended imron polyurethane enamel (which BTW is what Kawasaki originally painted their hulls with)
but researching it.....it's way to expensive....
so i'm gonna try this stuff instead... http://www.ipaint.us/blwapoto.html its also a 1 part polyurethane enamel....I'm gonna use their primer too
i just purchased a couple of quarts...so it will be a few days till i get them in the mail.....will update when i paint.
@wedoseadoo...bruce from jetsport also recommended the PPG as well. but i'm not very good at mixing so...i'll stick with the 1 part paints...thanks for the advise
and turns out, he painted professionally for 30 years...he recommended imron polyurethane enamel (which BTW is what Kawasaki originally painted their hulls with)
but researching it.....it's way to expensive....
so i'm gonna try this stuff instead... http://www.ipaint.us/blwapoto.html its also a 1 part polyurethane enamel....I'm gonna use their primer too
i just purchased a couple of quarts...so it will be a few days till i get them in the mail.....will update when i paint.
@wedoseadoo...bruce from jetsport also recommended the PPG as well. but i'm not very good at mixing so...i'll stick with the 1 part paints...thanks for the advise
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WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
You really need to check out the PPG its way cheaper than that and its ready to spray,that means no mixing and most important ,no extra cost,they use it to paint metal l buildings with ,it is extremely durable and has a nice gloss to it.
ok i'm checking it out now....but you and others have said that i need to add the urethane converter to it...and then you say its ready to paint!
that confuses me..
do i need the urethane converter or not?
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
You can do it either way,the gloss will be the same durability will be the same,the Urethane converter is basically just a plasticizer,and gives the paint more flexibility,on a hull bottom I would personally go ready to spray,if I was doing the top I would go with the urethane additive.
wow i just spent the last hour trying to find ppg polyurethane enamel clear + catalyst automotive paint
I guess I need this stuff... https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...roductID=97936b3d-14ec-42d9-b988-e5e1cf6f1a4d
i called them and they said its illegal to purchase this paint if i'm not a professional....ahahahaha!!!
whats worse is these online distribution companies dont have phone numbers to contact them with...so, I havent found anybody that sells it.....Uh!!
I give up on that stuff.. I guess i'll stick with what i originally bought from Ipaint
I guess I need this stuff... https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...roductID=97936b3d-14ec-42d9-b988-e5e1cf6f1a4d
i called them and they said its illegal to purchase this paint if i'm not a professional....ahahahaha!!!
whats worse is these online distribution companies dont have phone numbers to contact them with...so, I havent found anybody that sells it.....Uh!!
I give up on that stuff.. I guess i'll stick with what i originally bought from Ipaint
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Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
BTW. I am using epoxy resin and glass microspheres to smooth my hull. Microspheres come in different sizes and qualities. The higher quality/price the less pin holes you will have when you are done.
I've heard that body fillers like bondo can absorb water. I do not know if this is true.
I've heard that body fillers like bondo can absorb water. I do not know if this is true.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
I doubt you will find someone online to sell it to you,I just go down to the local PPG dealer and pick it up,never had a problem.
so this is what I used to fix the hull....
the first application was very runny (no microballons) but was easy to sand.
the second application was trickier.
I couldn't find any microballoons quick enough...so i improvised with the dust from my previous application. the results were a thickness that I had anticipated...but when it dried it was very difficult to sand...it was much harder than the hull itself. but with a little perseverance I gotrdone...(LOL....i think i learned the fundamentals of martial arts too)
anyway here are pics of progress in action.
Now I have to wait for the paint to arrive..
the first application was very runny (no microballons) but was easy to sand.
the second application was trickier.
I couldn't find any microballoons quick enough...so i improvised with the dust from my previous application. the results were a thickness that I had anticipated...but when it dried it was very difficult to sand...it was much harder than the hull itself. but with a little perseverance I gotrdone...(LOL....i think i learned the fundamentals of martial arts too)
anyway here are pics of progress in action.
Now I have to wait for the paint to arrive..
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So I started spraying my hull today..First coat was of course the primer...
I was going to thin down the paint with acetone....but I read on the can to only thin using xylex...or something like it..(don't remember)... so I didn't thin the primer..
I just used it as is...and as you can see I got a nice first coat over it, but its on the splattery side...I'll spray another coat without thinning the paint again....but then I might fine sand it afterwards with 400 grit before I spray on the final white coat.
Cleaning the spray gun after each application is the hardest part...lol
I was going to thin down the paint with acetone....but I read on the can to only thin using xylex...or something like it..(don't remember)... so I didn't thin the primer..
I just used it as is...and as you can see I got a nice first coat over it, but its on the splattery side...I'll spray another coat without thinning the paint again....but then I might fine sand it afterwards with 400 grit before I spray on the final white coat.
Cleaning the spray gun after each application is the hardest part...lol
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