small problem

It's the cylinder shaped filter inside the carb. If you pull the fuel pump side of the carb off you should see a small black circular thing going into the carb body. Your rebuild kit would have come with one. After riding it, I don't think that's your problem though.

I might have a stock CDI you could borrow, but I would want it back. I like having a spare.
 
R

ridethelip

Guest
i dunno. it did it before the carb rebuild though. what does this screen look like in the fuel pump? ive had the carb all apart and im not sure what piece ur talkin about. any pics?
http://216.37.204.203/yamaha_OEM/YamahaPWC.asp?Type=13&A=12&B=1
See #28 that is the screen.remove entire fuel pump and this screen is in a recess in the carb body.Poor pic sorry. It is rare but if the fuel valve leaks air in it will give you much grief.Attach vacuum test gauge to fuel valve supply and put automotive vacuum caps on the ""reserve and "on" outlets.You should be able to pull vacuum and the needle should not drop (loose vacuum pressure) in the "on" and "reserve" positions.If it does replace.
 
Location
michigan
It's the cylinder shaped filter inside the carb. If you pull the fuel pump side of the carb off you should see a small black circular thing going into the carb body. Your rebuild kit would have come with one. After riding it, I don't think that's your problem though.

I might have a stock CDI you could borrow, but I would want it back. I like having a spare.

yea maybe i could just try it and se if that fixes my prolem. it just sucks that it takes so long for it to start runnin bad. do u wanna go ride next thursday then maybe?
 
Location
michigan
mk had it out today with the new ada head, and i changed the jet from a 140 to a 135 because i think it was running abit rich. it ran the same as always. i also realized if im at almost no throttle and hammer it it will studder real bad and pretty much stall out. but if im atlike 1/4 throttle and hammer it it pulls good? what do i need to adjust to fix this problem? is this part of my big problem maybee? i just ordered all new fuel and cooling line because thats about the only thing i havent changed out.
 
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i had similiar problems with my ski last year. ended up that the screws in the stator plate had backed out a little causing it to advance and retard the timing at different times. took a day or two to figure that one out.
 
no but, remove your flywheel and the stator is sitting behind it. it shouldnt move. they are 2 little screws that hold it in place. would be a good time to put some loc-tite on those screws loose or not.
 
Location
michigan
ok what should i look for in it? it goes to the water trap then theres a white..umm somethin on the other end of that. where should that white bubble looking thing be located at? becasue right now its up by my water box.
 

brett

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Location
Ventura,ca
make sure it lets air in and not out...replacements are like 3 bucks at auto parts stores and it fixed a similiar problem i had

heres a pic
attachment.php
 

brett

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Location
Ventura,ca
its not a water trap..its a one way valve. it lets the tank build pressure. they are in the vacuum parts area of every auto parts store. me, five0addict and a couple buddies have all had to replace the stockers with these for the same thing your describing..

its worth a try for the price
 
It's a cheap and easy thing to try. It actually makes more sense than the fuel screen in the carb.
If you can't find one, just ride your boat until it starts to act up and then pull the vent line off the tank and ride it without a check valve(just don't lay the boat on it's side in the water and dump fuel out of the tank.
 
Location
michigan
well my other sj has this done to it so im gunna take it off that one and try it on mine and see if that fixes my problem....
 
Location
michigan
well i got it put on but havent had it out to the lake. my buddy blew his motor up so havent had anyone to shred with.
 
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