I've seen a lot of vehicle wraps (basically its a big sticker that covers the whole car), they use them in racing, for advertising... Does anyone know if these would work for a SJ, or any ski for that matter? I really need a paint job this year, but those are pretty cool looking, I just don't know if a SJ has too many curves/bends for one of these to work?
Ski Wraps
- Thread starter jetskiier
- Start date
The Penguin
triple secret probation
- Location
- down by the river
the wrapping companies say that a ski has too many complex curves for them to wrap it
but - there was a wrapped ski at Daytona. It looked like a snake skin. Pretty cool!
but - there was a wrapped ski at Daytona. It looked like a snake skin. Pretty cool!
LBE
Eddie Would Go.
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
It can be done but a paint job may be cheaper.
sjetrider
615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
- Location
- in the 615 (Nashville)
Most ski graphics co. dont offer actual screen printed decals do they?
SXIPro
JM781 Big Bore
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
sea-dude
To Air is Human
- Location
- Upper left corner
thegoldenboy
RN Surgery... soon
- Location
- Toronto
vehicle wrapping isn't cheap...
so my guess is that a ski wouldn't be either.
I know a lot of people wrap their sleds and its turns out well.
My concern with the wrap for a ski would be it being wet always. It can withstand water, but maybe not repeated dunkings.
I heard you can't take a vehicle wrapped car through a touchless car wash...
so my guess is that a ski wouldn't be either.
I know a lot of people wrap their sleds and its turns out well.
My concern with the wrap for a ski would be it being wet always. It can withstand water, but maybe not repeated dunkings.
I heard you can't take a vehicle wrapped car through a touchless car wash...
- Location
- Jersey
i've seen boats wrapped with it and that holds up well, and as far as the touchless car washes go, i have seen cars go through them that are wrapped, it just depends on the paper that the wrap is printed on....
The Penguin
triple secret probation
- Location
- down by the river
boats have far less curves than a ski.
- Location
- Jersey
the pole is one piece
each half of the hood
each half of the bottom deck
each half of the top deck
each half of the hood
each half of the bottom deck
each half of the top deck
The Penguin
triple secret probation
- Location
- down by the river
any boat wrap I've seen is below the bond rail down.
look at the top deck of any ski and you'll see what I mean about all the curves.
handlepole should be no problem to wrap.
look at the top deck of any ski and you'll see what I mean about all the curves.
handlepole should be no problem to wrap.
- Location
- Jersey
it's all in how the graphic is cut out.... if it has straight edges it will be more of a pain to apply than something with curved cuts on the edges
The Penguin
triple secret probation
- Location
- down by the river
are you talking about cut vinyl, or wraps?
- Location
- Jersey
either or..... a wrap is essentially screen printed vinly
accbr
addicted
- Location
- Lexington, KY
I have a friend that works at a sign company that does vehicle wraps. I've thought about doing it to mine, since I could get it done for free. They can do it. If the wrap gets wrinkled as they put it on they just pull it off, and hit it with a heat gun. It shrinks right back into shape. I don't want any detailed or complicated graphics on my ski. I'm just gonna have him paint it a solid color, and cut me some simple vinyl graphics. This isn't where my friend works at but, check out www.apewraps.com. They wrap streetbikes, and they have alot of curves. A ski wouldn't be a problem.
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
someone at the daytona freeride had a wrap on there ski of a snake skin. it looked metal.
- Location
- So. IL
My original plan was to keep my old ski and build a motor but I bought a ski with a cool paint job so my plans are canceled now.
But in my research I did find out that that camo wraps can be heated and streached where needed. I have a buddy that wraped vehicles in his body shop and he would place the vehicle an wrap in the paint booth and heat it up to make it strech. But he could do a step side truck bed in one piece no seams. In and around the steps and all.
But in my research I did find out that that camo wraps can be heated and streached where needed. I have a buddy that wraped vehicles in his body shop and he would place the vehicle an wrap in the paint booth and heat it up to make it strech. But he could do a step side truck bed in one piece no seams. In and around the steps and all.
SideFX
SideFX
- Location
- Port Coquitlam, BC
About wraps
Hi guys, stumbled on this thread and posting some info to help clear up matters on graphics. The new technology has broken all barriers.
First off, there is a difference in print media, that is the material that the imaging goes onto through the machine. We use Oracal brand from Germany. It's tough, and lasts. The imaging, like those on our website, are printed with solvents, not regular inks, and that makes a huge difference. The technology of the printer is unlike your home printer. The solvents are long lasting, just like paint and would melt down a regular printer machine if it wasn't designed to handle the solvent based ink tanks. The printer has a built in heater and dryer. The pores of the media open up and the solvents get embeded into them, so like a balloon with a pen line on it, can stretch without coming off.
I had done a lot of testing before ever starting up my graphics business and this stuff is unbelievable as my standards are high, and I set the bar high as well. For wraps, it is best not to use a laminate surface on the print as it makes it too difficult due to the added thickness to have it contour sharp curves and turns on organic shapes. Yes, heat like a hair dryer when working with the gfx is the trick. You can get the stuff so soft that it will just about seem like it's melting, but it's really sagging and drooping because it's so thin. This won't affect the ink per say, or the image as it's embeded in the media as I stated earlier, however, without some kind of protective covering, the surface of the print is somewhat vulnerable to abrasives like the whipping action of those brushes in the automated car washes. Those machines are just bad for any finish unless they are a reputable and quality car care service.
That said, I have used PPG clear coatings instead of laminate in some instances where I wanted to protect the print for many years. Actually berrying it in the clear with no edges, but that is for shows.
Now about laminates:
We use Oraguard, also from Oracal in Germany, and after the print is covered, it's super tough. I can take my skis (which both have graphics) through the power washer and it doesn't affect it at all. I do this often as one of the waters I ride in here has a build up of gunk at the dock side. Same protection for sunlight and UV radiation. The laminate has blockers in it. As far as spilling gasoline? No problem, as I do it all the time when I over fill the tank. It just runs right off like a glass of water on a waxed hood, so that's impressive stuff.
If you had a piece in your hands and tried to stretch it with the Oraguard on it, you would know right away that it's a serious professional strong product.
I have tested a piece that was laminated and used a hair dryer to heat it up as I was stretching it across my fist and knuckles. Once it took to the shape and I turned off the heat, I could feel it shrink onto my fist and it was tough and tight. This actually blew me away as I could feel it cutting off the circulation of blood in that area.
How about under water?
No problem. I have a long strip of shark's teeth under my rub rail (both sides) and it is in the water always and stays on even at speeds of 62 mph. (see attached image) Once the product has had a bit of time on the hull, the adhesive starts to work, specially in heat. I stuck these on two hours before I went in the water, and they are still on. I first used a wax, silicon and grease remover called Tumbler before applying. A clean surface will yield years of use of your graphics and is a very simple yet important key in getting things to stick. This product can be removed by heating it up with a hair dryer, thus softening things up.
I don't do wraps, yet the kits we make all fit and take contours no problem. There is a special print media for those wanting wraps as the science is a bit different behind it and much has been spend on research and development. I try to design them (graphics kits) to be easy to install, though it takes a bit of an expert to 'wrap' a vehicle surface as you have to loose a few to learn how the product works and feels. I don't recommend anyone try to do a one time wrap all on their own, as you will most likely run into problems due to lack of experience and either have wrinkles in the finished surface or have to trash it all together.
I can answer most questions about this product and the process for anyone needing more info. Just call me at 778-285-1989, or e-mail me direct at: designer@jetskidetailing.com
If I'm out, I can't answer till I'm back in, so be patient.
Thanks, and good luck to everyone with graphics in mind!
Hi guys, stumbled on this thread and posting some info to help clear up matters on graphics. The new technology has broken all barriers.
First off, there is a difference in print media, that is the material that the imaging goes onto through the machine. We use Oracal brand from Germany. It's tough, and lasts. The imaging, like those on our website, are printed with solvents, not regular inks, and that makes a huge difference. The technology of the printer is unlike your home printer. The solvents are long lasting, just like paint and would melt down a regular printer machine if it wasn't designed to handle the solvent based ink tanks. The printer has a built in heater and dryer. The pores of the media open up and the solvents get embeded into them, so like a balloon with a pen line on it, can stretch without coming off.
I had done a lot of testing before ever starting up my graphics business and this stuff is unbelievable as my standards are high, and I set the bar high as well. For wraps, it is best not to use a laminate surface on the print as it makes it too difficult due to the added thickness to have it contour sharp curves and turns on organic shapes. Yes, heat like a hair dryer when working with the gfx is the trick. You can get the stuff so soft that it will just about seem like it's melting, but it's really sagging and drooping because it's so thin. This won't affect the ink per say, or the image as it's embeded in the media as I stated earlier, however, without some kind of protective covering, the surface of the print is somewhat vulnerable to abrasives like the whipping action of those brushes in the automated car washes. Those machines are just bad for any finish unless they are a reputable and quality car care service.
That said, I have used PPG clear coatings instead of laminate in some instances where I wanted to protect the print for many years. Actually berrying it in the clear with no edges, but that is for shows.
Now about laminates:
We use Oraguard, also from Oracal in Germany, and after the print is covered, it's super tough. I can take my skis (which both have graphics) through the power washer and it doesn't affect it at all. I do this often as one of the waters I ride in here has a build up of gunk at the dock side. Same protection for sunlight and UV radiation. The laminate has blockers in it. As far as spilling gasoline? No problem, as I do it all the time when I over fill the tank. It just runs right off like a glass of water on a waxed hood, so that's impressive stuff.
If you had a piece in your hands and tried to stretch it with the Oraguard on it, you would know right away that it's a serious professional strong product.
I have tested a piece that was laminated and used a hair dryer to heat it up as I was stretching it across my fist and knuckles. Once it took to the shape and I turned off the heat, I could feel it shrink onto my fist and it was tough and tight. This actually blew me away as I could feel it cutting off the circulation of blood in that area.
How about under water?
No problem. I have a long strip of shark's teeth under my rub rail (both sides) and it is in the water always and stays on even at speeds of 62 mph. (see attached image) Once the product has had a bit of time on the hull, the adhesive starts to work, specially in heat. I stuck these on two hours before I went in the water, and they are still on. I first used a wax, silicon and grease remover called Tumbler before applying. A clean surface will yield years of use of your graphics and is a very simple yet important key in getting things to stick. This product can be removed by heating it up with a hair dryer, thus softening things up.
I don't do wraps, yet the kits we make all fit and take contours no problem. There is a special print media for those wanting wraps as the science is a bit different behind it and much has been spend on research and development. I try to design them (graphics kits) to be easy to install, though it takes a bit of an expert to 'wrap' a vehicle surface as you have to loose a few to learn how the product works and feels. I don't recommend anyone try to do a one time wrap all on their own, as you will most likely run into problems due to lack of experience and either have wrinkles in the finished surface or have to trash it all together.
I can answer most questions about this product and the process for anyone needing more info. Just call me at 778-285-1989, or e-mail me direct at: designer@jetskidetailing.com
If I'm out, I can't answer till I'm back in, so be patient.
Thanks, and good luck to everyone with graphics in mind!
