SJ Pump Frozen

TTD120

TTD120

Location
PA
Hey guys!

I'm doing a RN build, and finally finished the hull (paint, decals, holds, etc.). I went to gather up all of my parts to start throwing it back together yesterday, and I noticed that my pump was frozen and the shaft will not spin. When i took it out of my old freestyle SN, it spun freely by hand. I stored in in my garage since September, and when i took it out last week it won't spin at all. I don't have much experience taking pumps/shafts apart, so I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations as to what I can do to free it up. It appears the impeller is clearing the wall, so I'm not sure whats going on. I took the cone off and snapped a few pics..hopefully they will be helpful. Thanks.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/TTD120/Picture331.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/TTD120/Picture332.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/TTD120/Picture333.jpg
 
SJBrit

SJBrit

Extraordinary Alien
Location
Bradenton, FL
Are you sure the impeller is clearing the wall all the way around? It's very common for the wear ring (the part the impeller sits in) to "blister" due to corrosion. It can be at just one spot, but it will clamp an impeller tight.
 
TTD120

TTD120

Location
PA
I held the pump up to the sunlight, and you can see a definite spacing between the wall and the impeller where the sunlight shone through all along each blade. I'll give the wear ring a check. It still baffles me as to how it froze up just by sitting on a shelf in my garage, since it moved freely when i took it out of my old ski. I appreciate the help.
 
SJBrit

SJBrit

Extraordinary Alien
Location
Bradenton, FL
The wear ring corrodes between the dissimilar metals - the aluminum swells and pinches the stainless liner. If you run the ski all the time the impeller will actually wear so that it keeps spinning. As soon as you stop the continual swelling clamps on the blades. I'd be willing to bet that's your problem. You'll see the scuff marks on the inside of the wear ring of that's what's happening.
 
Liquid Graffix

Liquid Graffix

liquidgraffix
Location
In the shop or on the water
Funny this just came up. I just pulled 3 pumps apart this week.

Pull it all apart. 4 bolts and it all comes apart in 3 sections (nozzle, housing, wear ring). Use a flat head screwdriver between the taps to pry the wear ring apart from the housing. Be CAREFUL! You don't want to snap those off. Run your finger along the inside of the wear ring to feel for any "high" spots.

If thats not your problem, then once it's apart- try rotating it by hand. If it doesn't spin, then you probably got water in one of the bearings and it seized. There are 2 bearings and 2 seals. You can pry the 2 black seals out with a screw driver. They sit under the prop, beneath a washer. The driveshaft will have to be pressed out through the front of the pump.

http://216.37.204.203/yamaha_OEM/YamahaPWC.asp?Type=13&A=45&B=9
 
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TTD120

TTD120

Location
PA
I separated the pump as you mentioned, and the wall is perfectly smooth. No nicks or anything. And it's still locked up, so it inst hitting the wall at all. The shaft will rotate about 2 or 3 mm before it locks up, so it isn't 100% frozen. My next step would be to remove the impeller correct? Which im assuming involves the use of a solas impeller wrench which i currently can't locate?
 
SJBrit

SJBrit

Extraordinary Alien
Location
Bradenton, FL
TTD120 said:
I separated the pump as you mentioned, and the wall is perfectly smooth. No nicks or anything. And it's still locked up, so it inst hitting the wall at all. The shaft will rotate about 2 or 3 mm before it locks up, so it isn't 100% frozen.
Click to expand...

Well, the one good thing about pumps is that there is only one other cause! Sounds like you'll be replacing the bearings.

Listen to Matt and don't try to improvise - it can be very hard indeed to crack a prop off, and you can do damage if you don't use the proper tools. Every toolbox should have those tools anyway - very handy.

Remember that the prop is a left hand thread, and you'll need a lot of leverage and probably heat to get the prop loose - those suckers can really get seized on the shaft after a while.
 
TTD120

TTD120

Location
PA
Great thanks guys. I ordered them from solas yesterday. Def. 2 tools i want to have at all times. My initial guess was the bearings rusted, but I just wanted to be sure to do it all correctly. Thanks again!
 
TTD120

TTD120

Location
PA
Those pics are a huge help! Thanks! Also when i'm putting it back together, what kind of sealer/locktite do you guys use on the bolts?
 
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