sj PTO bearing play>?

[oldskoo]

just curious if there is a acceptable limit to the amount of pto bearing play up and down. i have my sj stripped down to almost nothing and noticed i have maybe .25-.030 of up and down play?? .....bearing feels ok, they all seem to feel a bit grity....

 

[#ZERO]

Grity bearings going in = grinding bits flying out.

 

[QuickMick]

Does McMaster Carr sell this bearing? How hard is it to replace the bearing?

 

[2lick]

If I remember right mcmaster was more expensive then a cheap OEM place... like boats.net

 

[#ZERO]

Yep OEM is cheaper and it's a PITA unless have a good knife edge bearing puller plate.

Also heating the inner bearing race seems to help aid removal.

 

[QuickMick]

If I remember right mcmaster was more expensive then a cheap OEM place... like boats.net

so boats.net sells just the bearing??

how hard is it to press in?

 

[2lick]

so boats.net sells just the bearing??

how hard is it to press in?

Their an OEM dealer like any other... I just usually go with them because they are most always the cheapest.... and decent on time/shipping...

I suppose you could buy the whole unit if you want to spend the coin....

or you could buy a housing unit with bearings installed like atlanticjetsports and others sell, press in your shaft and hit the water....

No idea on the install job never done it....

 

[#ZERO]

how hard is it to press in?

Going back on is the easy part.

Just heat up the bearing to 250F degrees; drop in on and tap the inner race into place with a piece of 1.5" ID pipe to make sure it's seated.

You'll need to replace the seal collar too and heat it up to 350F degrees and drop it into place.

Just don't use any heat on the front bearing if you're going to replace that one, because you might melt the bearing cage.

 

[QuickMick]

Going back on is the easy part.

Just heat up the bearing to 250F degrees; drop in on and tap the inner race into place with a piece of 1.5" ID pipe to make sure it's seated.

You'll need to replace the seal collar too and heat it up to 350F degrees and drop it into place.

Just don't use any heat on the front bearing if you're going to replace that one, because you might melt the bearing cage.

uhhh why does everything I want to do take so much work. :AR15firing:

 

[restosud]

odds are if those bearings are going south the others will follow shortly.

 

[oldskoo]

im not really sure if they are bad, they seem to spin like my blaster use to, just have a bit of play, never had any noise or vibration

 

[oldskoo]

i guess grity was a bad word

 

[BBYamaha]

I got one feels smooth but has a little play up and down as well, then again its a sealed unit can't be greased and as much time as it spends under water.... I got another I am going to pull the shaft out of and may use it instead since it has a grease cert on it.

 

[#ZERO]

I just realized you guys are talking about the mid shaft bearing and thought it was the PTO crank bearing. :thinking:

The Mid shaft bearings are easy to replace you just need a hydraulic press but most the time if it needs bearings the rubber housing will be shot too.