Other Seafoam

[Vumad]

Anyone use Seafoam additive? I have a buddy that swears by the stuff you spray into the carb when the ski is running. However, he's not well versed in how motors work. The Seafoam that you spray into the carb only cleans up carbon build up, it does not address carburation issues. Seafoam does have a fuel additive that is suppose to liquefy varnish and other build up and resolve issues due to water in the tank from condensation build up.

I bought my fiance a GP1200 2 weeks ago. I've had it out 3 times. Got the steering issues resolved and it was running great for the most part. It started right up with primer cold. It didn't like to start warm. Otherwise it ran perfect. The 3rd time out we tried to use it to wake skate. It had a very slight hesitation from idle if WOT, but a slight ease into the throttle it would pull hard off the line. It ran great the whole time other than the slight starting issue. After a few sessions, we parked the 1200 while I rode my SJ. After about 2 hours, I went to ride the 1200 before I loaded up (still testing and looking for issues). The ski wasn't running right. It felt like it was loading up. About 5 seconds of bog, then it would pull hard out of the hole and all the way to the top. Idling again, it would bogg, then pull hard.

I replaced the plugs but haven't taken it to the lake again to test. I do not think it has anything to do with the plugs, they had a nice brown color. I am just starting with plugs because it is easiest and who knows when they were last changed.

Assuming the plugs was not the problem (and certainly isn't the cause of the hard starting), I am going to need to work the carbs. The ski was running great, so I'm not in a rush to buy a rebuild kit or invest time in working on the carbs. I know seafoam spray wont do what I need. I don't know anyone that has used the additive. I am concerned that adding it to the tank might break up a lot of build up and make the problem worse. I was thinking about adding 2oz to a 1ga can (still oil injected) and sticking the fuel intake into the gas can.

Anyway, anyone have any feedback or opinions on the product (or similar) and the situation I am talking about. Normally I address my carburation products by manually cleaning the carbs. This isn't my quad. 3 carbs is a lot bigger job and more expensive. The ski was also running so well and it's likely to be a very minor problem since it changed so suddenly. I'm sure it's nothing to do with the motor or electronics.

 

[agua]

Ive used it mixed with my gas before and seems to cut down on carbon buildup but its hard to tell without tearing the engine apart. I have heard of people running it through their outboards when the first get them and getting chunks of carbon coming out of their exhaust. Cant say ive actually seen it myself, but that's just what ive heard.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

It will usually make it better but it probably won't cure the problem, 1200 carbs are a b!tch to workon.

 

[chad]

1200 carbs are a b!tch to workon.

you can say that again!

 

[Vumad]

It will usually make it better but it probably won't cure the problem, 1200 carbs are a b!tch to workon.

Why? I'd appriciate advice if there's something abnormal I should know about. My X2 has a 44mm SBN and I've worked several times with my Warrior 350 and a few other carbs. What's the deal with the 1200 carbs?

I will probably try the seafoam in the 1ga can 1st unless someone objects because it is harmful, but I'd like to be prepared for the next step.

 

[garrcass]

Are they mikunis sounds like that little filter might have some crap in it..

Sent from my LG-P925 using Tapatalk 2

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Is this the PV engine or the NPV, gp1200's came with both, if its the NPV no problem, rip them apart and go after it, if its a PV engine its a little different story. I doubt you will find anything in the small filters, more than likely the fuel pump check valves are jacked up or the main diaphragms are stuck to the covers

 

[FlightPlanDan]

I know squat about your motor.
But, Seafoam is ALWAYS the first step when I have carb issues. It might not fix it, but it can not hurt it. The clean-up that it does just may save you a lot of work. (personal experience). Pulling the carbs for a clean/rebuild is not always needed.
I too worried about it "bustin' stuff loose" and f'ing up the system. But, I guess, it works by dissolving stuff rather than breaking chunks free.
I like seafoam.

 

[Vumad]

Is this the PV engine or the NPV, gp1200's came with both, if its the NPV no problem, rip them apart and go after it, if its a PV engine its a little different story. I doubt you will find anything in the small filters, more than likely the fuel pump check valves are jacked up or the main diaphragms are stuck to the covers

It's not the R model, no power valves. I haven't checked the filters yet. It happened a few days ago and I've been burried in school and other projects.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

dump a half a cup or so into the gas tank. Burn the tank.

 

[snirunner24]

I run that stuff in all my 2 stroke motors. I put a can in once a month in both outboards and all three skis. No carb issues in any of them. I got my 94 xp in 2000 and my friends run the hell out of it and haven't had to rebuilt the carbs once. I use the stuff that you mix in the gas. I also mix it very heavy one can per 5 gallons

 

[Vumad]

It will usually make it better but it probably won't cure the problem, 1200 carbs are a b!tch to workon.

I looked at the 1200 carbs today. I answered my own question about why they are hard to work on. I didn't work on them, but it's pretty obvious that it's a much much bigger than my stock SJ carbs.

I tried the seafoam. Nothing changed at all. It didn't make it better or worse.

The ski starts right up with primer. After that, it takes about 5 seconds of cranking to start again. Once started, it idles pretty nice. If I stab the throttle at idle (1mph) it will hesitate really bad and then take off, or it'll just die. If I ease into the throttle (3mph) then stab it, it has no hesitation. The gauge says it's idling at 1200 (1mph). I increased it to 1500 (1/4 turn, 2-3mph) and no change, so backed it down to where it was.

The digital read out starts at 0 and goes to 8k, but the actual display starts at 1000, so I'm not sure if it's idling at 1200 or 200. 200 seems way low, and it peaks at 7k, so I'm sure it's right at 1200.

The ski idles great and runs great just off idle. It's the starting and when you stab it to WOT from absolute idle. The new plugs are a light brown. Maybe a little lighter than I prefer, but still in the good color range. It pulls to 60mph no problem, and puts you back in your seat throughout the entire RPM range, even at 50mph (who knows if it's accurate but you get the point).

Anyway, if anyone has any other suggestions, I'm willing to listen. I would normally just clean/rebuild the carbs, but it's a big job and not high on the priority list since it runs so good and isn't about to blow up (Has had probably 4 hours of hard WOT already since I got it).

 

[tumblingtwerp9]

I have a gp1200 as well and blew my motor after one day or riding because the last time I rebuilt it I let it sit forever and the needle and seat got so bad that my pop off was at 75psi. Mine behaved the exact same way though...I would take the carbs off and go through them. They aren't that hard to remove and not too expensive to rebuild.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Ok I will bite, I have found most of these 1100-1200 skis to be setup way too lean on the low speed screws, start by turning the low speed screws out about 3/4 of a turn from where they are now, if it loads up after idling for a few minutes turn it back in 1/4 turn on each carb, try that and report back.

 

[Vumad]

Ok I will bite, I have found most of these 1100-1200 skis to be setup way too lean on the low speed screws, start by turning the low speed screws out about 3/4 of a turn from where they are now, if it loads up after idling for a few minutes turn it back in 1/4 turn on each carb, try that and report back.

Thanks. I'll try to give it a shot. It doesn't 'feel' like dirty is the problem. I haven't tuned very much. Until I put my 44mm mikuni on my X2, I had never tuned anything. Everything I've had has always been stock, and run well, so I've became pretty good at maintaining things. Tuning (in all senses, carbs, pipes, etc) is relatively new to me. So I appreciate the feedback that tuning might be the real culpirate.

Oh, and I had time today (before the seafoam) to check the fuel filter and the tank. Both were pretty clean.

 

[yamadog282]

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak and/or a fuel pump issue. I would start by testing fuel pump pressure, look for worn seals, gaskets, dry rotted fuel lines, and check my carb synch as well.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak and/or a fuel pump issue. I would start by testing fuel pump pressure, look for worn seals, gaskets, dry rotted fuel lines, and check my carb synch as well.

Doubtful its a fuel pump issue, 1200's have one fuel pump per carb, I have seen creased check valves on 1200's but always try adjusting before rebuilding, always.

 

[Vumad]

It felt like it was loading up. About 5 seconds of bog, then it would pull hard out of the hole and all the way to the top. Idling again, it would bogg, then pull hard.

I think I figured out what was wrong. I should have trusted my gut and experience. The ski felt rich. I just didn't understand why. I assumed the carbs were dirty and causing the ski to run lean. However, that didn't explain the ski behavior. It ran strong at WOT with nice colored plugs, and had that rich bog on the low end right off idle, as well as not wanting to start warm. It felt rich, I should have trusted rich, anyway...

Well, I gave in and cleaned everything. Turns out I wasted my time. It was a little better but still didn't feel right. I was looking for another problem so I ran the ski with the air filters off. I gave it gas and the venturies sprayed out a nice even spray of fuel from all 3 carbs, then I let off the gas and they dripped liked crazy. I ordered new needles and seats. The throttle cable was bad so I ordered new throttle and oil cables.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Actually you wasted your time by not checking popoff pressure when you had the carbs apart, that would have shown up if the needles and seats were leaking, do it right , do it once be done.

 

[Vumad]

Actually you wasted your time by not checking popoff pressure when you had the carbs apart, that would have shown up if the needles and seats were leaking, do it right , do it once be done.

I don't have any way to check it, but you're right, I need to buy the tool. It's on my list, but I spent the money on a prop, head and throttle for my Superjet.