SeaDoo 3D warning light at start up/no-start condition.

[SXIPro]

No, it's not mine.

SeaDoo 3D warning light at startup. Plus no-start condition.​

Trying to help a neighbor get his 3D running. I know nothing about these things (SeaDoos, not PWCs in general) so bear with me. So he has a no-start issue and claims the plugs keep getting fouled. I haven't even opened the hood yet but have noticed when trying to start it the warning light in the gauge cluster lights up along with the fuel level lights. Does the warning indicator normally light up during startup? (And by startup I just mean cranking, because it never actually starts). Just wondering if the warning light at startup could be a clue to it not starting.

He's owned it a week and got to ride it once. Trying to get it fixed because he has company coming over this weekend and this was going to be his 'loaner' ski. So, any input that might point me in the right direction would be great.

Thanks

 

[Harbor]

I don’t know anything about them…. I do have a 01 DX that had the red warning light coming on…I think Service info had me count the bulb flashes to get the DTC.. then look up the dtc to find I had a charging system issue.. this ski still ran..

This ski has a chipped key, I had been wondering about it, I see a lot of posts about keys and or the posts the key interacts with go bad ?

 

[SXIPro]

This is just a Steady warning light when I try to crank it over. I’m wondering if it’s nothing. Just like when you go to start your car in the morning and all your dash lights light up for a second until the car actually starts and then they go out?

 

[Harbor]

I went and checked the light activity, found I lost the battery cable nut somehow, now I gotta round one up …..

Well the red warning light came on for a bulb check fir 3 seconds then goes out, (lanyard in)….

No red warning light during cranking and starting…

This on is a GTX with DI engine…

I’d look up the service info for that ski and see if your particular bulb activity equates to a DTC in the chart.. the way I checked mine was to plug in the chipped key and watch the bulb activity…

 

[Harbor]

First and foremost, must have a strong fully charged Battery. Anything less and the DI or RFI Engine will hold back like a Donkey...

Check Cylinder Compression.

If No-Start Condition is after Fouled Spark Plugs, then the Crank Internal Seals are leaking Oil into the Crank Spaces under the Cylinders. Time for a Crank Rebuild.

If No-Start due to lack of Fuel Delivery, check all Fuel Filters including Internal Tank Fuel Pump Filter. Also check BOTH Air and Fuel Injector Solenoids. Check Air Pump.

Seadoos also have a nagging Rectifier issue. Very common problem. Bill O'Neill of Watercraft Magic says it's caused by low voltage Battery . Even if it's in the low 12 Volt range. Says low Voltage causes the Rectifier to overheat...

Also look for loose or corroded Ground Wires in the E-Boxes.

The rectifier is what was wrong with the wife’s

 

[SXIPro]

Threw some spark testers on it and cranked and for about 15 seconds it had zero spark on either cylinder. None. Tried again and after 10 seconds saw spark on cyl 1 but not cyl 2. Tried again, got spark in both, with cyl 2 firing about 5 seconds after cyl 1 started firing. Tried again and back to no spark in either. So, intermittent spark for whatever reason. Blah!

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Also Di's have to have a working and properly functioning air compressor to work right, it adds 60 PSI to the fuel pressure and the air is injected along with the fuel, you will need to check the air pressure with a gauge, it's the small plastic line coming from the back on the right side of the engine

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Threw some spark testers on it and cranked and for about 15 seconds it had zero spark on either cylinder. None. Tried again and after 10 seconds saw spark on cyl 1 but not cyl 2. Tried again, got spark in both, with cyl 2 firing about 5 seconds after cyl 1 started firing. Tried again and back to no spark in either. So, intermittent spark for whatever reason. Blah!

DI's are known for coils going out, may or may not be the issue, honestly without a Candoopro to hook to it so you can fire the coils and injectors manually you are poking in the dark with a dull stick. Battery has to be fully charged if it falls below 10.5 volts while cranking it will still crank over but it will not spark, ignition is DC CDI, everything runs off the battery voltage. Check and see what the voltage is dropping dow to while cranking it over with the plugs in it.