Super Jet Sanding steps? 2002 Superjet

Hey guys,

I have looked through quite a few threads and still cannot find what I am looking for. The bodyshop I work for agreed to paint my ski at a great price as long as I do the prep work. I have the classic 02SJ issue where the paint is peeling from the hood.. I need to start sanding soon but I would just like a few tips on what grit to start/end with and how far down to go? I am still a n00b so if there's a post to this kind of question point me to it if you could

20130408_180045.jpg


Thanks!
 
I'll let the experts chime in but in my case, I was able to flake off all the paint from my hood, right down to the fiberglass. Then I shot some primer and had a shop match the paint and spray it..
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Hey guys,

I have looked through quite a few threads and still cannot find what I am looking for. The bodyshop I work for agreed to paint my ski at a great price as long as I do the prep work. I have the classic 02SJ issue where the paint is peeling from the hood.. I need to start sanding soon but I would just like a few tips on what grit to start/end with and how far down to go? I am still a n00b so if there's a post to this kind of question point me to it if you could

View attachment 218360


Thanks!

You work for a body shop... They should be able to tell you?

How much you sand is going to depend on the primer you use. Some primers want some bite and are thicker, so you use higher grits and it glosses over. Other primers are thinner and you need to sand with finer grits.

I'm not an expert, but I can maybe point you in the right direction...

The main body of the ski has good paint, so you may just have to spray paint, in which case you will be looking at wet sanding it with probably 1000 wet. If you have to use any body filler, you will need to put primer over that body filler.

The hood will not have any paint on it. It will defiantly need a primer. Again, specific to the primer. You may be dry sanding with 600 or wet sanding with 600. Sometimes with primers you use a heavier dry grit like 400... You can probably take all of the paint off the hood with no sanding. Mine came off my hood with no pressure using a window scraper. Be sure not to dig into the glass. My '04 paint was so wasted at that point it took no effort to remove it in sheets.

You really need to ask the shop what primer they are going to use, and what grit you should sand for that primer. It would be different if you were doing all the work, but if they are spraying it, and you work there, it shouldn't be an issue to take 5 minutes to tell you how to prep it. I don't even know you and I found that time.
 
180 until you got most of the paint off, follow it by 320 to remove the 180 scratch, seal, base, clear... you could prep out to 600 if you want, most sealers that i've used will fill 320 and not bridge... otherwise, start at 320 and prep out to 600 and base, it'll get you to the same place, just take a little longer... these are all finish da suggested... if you're doing it by hand, finish with 800... but i wouldn't use surfacer on anything on a jetski/boat hull(same concept of using body filler).. if you need to tool it, use gel coat... if you need body filler, get out the cab o sil and resin... automotive primer surfacer and body filler are water penetrable, meaning they will absorb moisture..

btw... 1000 is too fine to paint over.. i personally never prep past 600(unless i'm blending clear, but that's another story).. but anything over 800 is to the point you're losing adhesion.. (waterborn is another situation)

i am also no pro, but i stayed at a holiday inn express last night... actually i stayed home last night, and own a body shop... so take this as you wish...

but in actuality.. i do agree with vumad on some points... like... have the painter how he want's it prepped.. i'm flattered that you work at a body shop and don't know what they prep with...
 
Last edited:
Ok yeah I will get that information from them tomorrow. I am IT for a Lexus dealership but we have an offsite bodyshop that does everything. He told me they are using Dupont for paint, whatever they use on their cars so thats good.
 
Thanks for the help guys! Love this site has always been a life saver for me. Also we made an offer on our first house right on lake st clair. Hopefully I'll have a lot more time to ride if the offers accepted.
 
I just repainted my 2002 sj hood. Used metal 2" putty knife and scraped down to fiberglass. Wet sanded 600. Used 2k 2 part epoxy in a rattle can. Used 2 cans of OEM from color-rite.. followed with urethane 2 part gloss clear in a rattle can. Judge for yourself. 20130423_164726.jpg20130428_204726.jpg
 
Yeah I just spoke with the shop manger he said just stop at 250 but in most cases I would assume I'd go a lot higher. See that looks good, if I did a can it'd look like pure :):):):).
 
Last edited:

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Yeah I just spoke with the shop manger he said just stop at 250 but in most cases I would assume I'd go a lot higher. See that looks good, if I did a can it'd look like pure :):):):).

Going up to finer grits doesn't necessarily give you a better finish. A rougher finish gives the primer more bite. Many primers are designed to gloss down over a sanded surface for the finish you want. Extra sanding will likely give you the same finish, but with less adhesion. Figure out what primer you are going to use and see if it has directions for prep. It may specify a grit.
 
Ok thank you! I have started with 80 but what really worries me is sanding edges and transition areas. Already feel like I applied to much pressure and sanded an edge down a little to much. I think I'll keep the machines away from those spots and go lightly by hand. I give you guys props for knowing how to do this :):):):) :):):):)s hard.
 
I live in oregon and decided to wait till this winter to paint mine but i am near the famous "blowsion" and i talked to them and they did a write up email for me so here it is : ENJOY


Don't bother w/ any "marine" paint for refinishing your SJ. Those paint systems are designed for boats that spend the majority of their time floating in the water, not for nice custom skis that are ridden hard and fast and then stored in a garage.


Just treat your ski like you would if you are painting a car. I use the same automotive finishes here at Blowsion.





Go with a Basecoat/Clearcoat Automotive urethane paint system. You should be able to access or find everything you need at any of your local automotive refinishing supply stores.


I do everything with a mix of PPG and House of Kolor brand paints. These are not the cheapest as far as costs, but very durable and awesome color saturation. There is also DUPONT, Sherwin-Williams and many other quality brands available.


House of Kolor definitely has the “coolest” color spectrum, but is also more difficult to use and requires multiple layering to get some of the desired effects.





http://www.ppg.com/coatings/AutoOem/Pages/default.aspx


http://www.houseofkolor.com/


http://www2.dupont.com/Automotive/en_US/products_services/paintCoatings/paintCoatings.html





I would sand the topcoat of your ski with a pneumatic Dual Action Sander (or red scotch bright pad by hand) to around 220 grit, and then seal the sanded surface with PPG Epoxy White (DP48LF--mixes 2:1 ration with the DP402lf catalyst).


With the white base you can get the lighter colors to really show thru, rather than a gray or black primer base. For actual basecoat colors I use basecoat urethane paint colors (DBC or DBU black PPG Brand). With this DP48 base, and the PPG basecoat colors you should then follow with a good high solids clear coat. I like PPG DC3000. If you want to save some money go with PPG Omni urethane clear coat. It is a private label made by PPG and pretty good stuff. The key to the whole process is the PPG DP Epoxy sealer.


As long as you use this good quality primer you can cover it with a spray can paint or clear and still have a durable finish. The stuff is VERY strong and the key to a durable and lasting finish.





If you have a really rough surface that has been sanded with heavy grit or is scratched deeply, then you may need to use a ‘Filler Primer’ to smooth out the surface before applying the epoxy sealer. For this filler primer I use PPG’s K36 Primer with K201 catalyst.


Here is the link for more information: https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishprodu...roductid=00a98467-8188-42bb-b339-01c52375e5c7





I would personally not recommend refinishing or painting the very bottom of your PWC. The more scratched it is the better it actually handles!


It seems like the more paint material you put on the bottom the more the new scratches that you invariably put in it will stand out and show up (more than before the new paint).





Hope this helps. Share some pics if you tackle your project and I can help out with any further Q?’s


Best Rgds,


John
 
Top Bottom