Route water to cool a boost ported cylinder?

Hi guys,

Ive discovered my ski is already using a dual cooling mod. The Copper pipe has already been installed, MAD.
okay, so lets take a look at my cooling system as of now. ( Diagram- "HOW TO MOD >>>>HOT" )


( Note: individual pumps! "modified" )

Water INtake- ( blue lines in Diagrams by me - pink is hot water out )

comes in from pump 1 and pump 2. There pick ups are opposite each other in the pump.
1 goes to the rear cyl through the exhaust manifold.
2 goes to the fitting on the backside of the head pipe.


Water OUTake- PINK LINES

There is one hose from the rear cylinder that goes to a pisser next to my bilge pisser. OUT into the sea.
The other OUTflow line is from the front of the head pipe. It connects straight to the last fitting which is on the end of the pipe. When metal meets rubber couplings.
So the water is coming through the exhaust pipe.



Since I cooked the front cylinders piston, the yet to be 100% defined piston id like to know if if any water is cooling this piston with my current set up?
AM I COOLING THE FRONT CYLINDER WITH THIS SET UP? if NOT, how can I? and being mindful that the cylinder may or may not be boost ported.



these are serious questions, if you know a member who might be able to actually answer them It would help me define this ski and move forward in this project.

the photos are to show where the fittings are, please not i have the 3ft copper pipe mod attached to the pump so dual WATER IN TAKE. the aftermarket modifications diameter is maybe 20% increase in diameter too, so more flow probably through the aftermarket water pump

thanks
 

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Blue

Judging your cheapness
Location
St Cloud Florida
From your drawings it looks likeYour problem is the water is not circulating arond the front cyl. You have it entering the back cyl of the exhaust manifold and exiting the back of the head so it may not flow around the front cyl very well as water takes the path of least resistance. Basically its going in and straight out the top. However your picture of the motor looks like the fitting is already in the front.. if not Either add an extra fitting in the front of the head and add another pisser or. Close off the back of the head and add a fitting to the front of the head so water crosses both cylinder to exit at the front of the head.
 

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
If you are hooked to the rear inlet fitting on the exhaust manifold and the rear outlet on the head, then the water is not truly flowing around the front cylinder but going in the rear and out the rear. It's also possible to trap air in the front of the head with this setup since you start out with the ski angled up which would cause hot spots also.
 
Okay,

Is there a factor of creating and balaancing the right pressures of the substances in different aparts of the ski? ie X amount of pressure needs to be on the head for it to work, so, ( for eg) having too many OUT flow> pisser Line from the head will cause low compression on something?

Just trying to understand the what my movements will do on my engine in relevance to pressures on the IN and OUT fittings and etc...sorry if th question is direct or straight forwards, just trying to get info on the physics behind what were doing here. like, how to generate more pressure in the pipe, so we can get excess water out faster or how to get lower pressures on the head if needed...


, Id like to go for the direct Dual water IN Flow from both fittings on the exhaust manifold, Forcing water in directly.
My aftermarket fitting is larger in diameter, how should i use this to my advantage? assuming i get increased flow....( i was thinking of having a "y" piece. connected to the rear left exhaust mani fitting and the other line of water, going to the head pipe, and keeping the straight hose that connects the front head pipe fitting to the very end part of the pipe. ( were it gets hose clamped to a rubber couppling)

can someone help me draw up a diagram for my new cooling set-up?
Id like to go with the DUAL INTAKE(exhaust-mani) AND DUAL OUT (head).
How do i go about connecting up the pipe now?




Newb question below
oh and since im building it up with selling it in mind, id like to get new hose/line.
Question: Is the cooling line you get from ebay, blowsion , ajsp ( the colour rubber ) as good as hose?
i suppose it must be or they wouldnt use it on rickters etc?

cheers
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
You're over thinking it.

Ideal dual cooling schematic straight from the guru's at X-scream.

XScream SS846 Waterline Routing Rear Outlets.jpg
 
Last edited:
the boost ports shouldnt make any difference in operating temps.. they just allow more volume to enter the crankcase while the piston is down you definitely need to move the water outlet to the front cylinder.. i run a very similar setup you have listed only i have both water outlets on the head tee to one pisser.. the water should get 110-130 degrees coming out of the pisser.. my exhaust has its own cooling line with a tee to a pisser and a flow control valve..
 
what is a stinger? ive tried to Google it but no chance..

@
fastgtfairlane

what about the other fitting on the left side of the whaust mani and the last fitting on the pipe ( where it attaches onto the coupleing) -do u use block em off?
 
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