Super Jet reinstalling tray after defoaming question

[alberta guy]

So i'm about to start my winter rebuild on my ski. I've spent alot of time reading all the defoaming topics. Being i'm a tradesmen in a machine shop with access to all kinds of tools materials ect. Instead of reglassing and sanding the tray back in. Would it work if when i cut the tray leave a 2'' lip all the way around and laser measure and cut a piece of titanuim or aluminum that sits on the lip all the way around and is riveted and siliconed in? I plan to use the foam from home depot that is waterproof and install drains so if water gets in I can get it back out.

 

[Quinc]

So i'm about to start my winter rebuild on my ski. I've spent alot of time reading all the defoaming topics. Being i'm a tradesmen in a machine shop with access to all kinds of tools materials ect. Instead of reglassing and sanding the tray back in. Would it work if when i cut the tray leave a 2'' lip all the way around and laser measure and cut a piece of titanuim or aluminum that sits on the lip all the way around and is riveted and siliconed in? I plan to use the foam from home depot that is waterproof and install drains so if water gets in I can get it back out.

I was also thinking about doing something like this. Be interested to hear if anyone has tried it.

 

[NVJAY775]

I haven't tried that, but highly recommend getting 4 lb 2 part foam from uscomposites.com It will support the weight and pounding from the rider. And is made specifically for this application.

I would think it (metal plate) wouldn't be too bad, but not sure if the rivets and silicone will handle the abuse over time.

IMO cutting out the tray and glassing in a new one isn't too bad. I've done it and it turns out very nice. I think I used 3 layers of 17 oz. biax. While you've got the tray cut out, it's a perfect time to widen the tray and do some footholds if you haven't already. Here's a link to a build thread I did a couple years ago, covering some of what's being talked about.

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/88935-Roundie-refurbishing-on-the-cheap

Get the foam, resin and biax all from uscomposites.com

 

[alberta guy]

Thinking about maybe ordering in that foam. But no matter which foam I used I would make sure the plate was fully supported. So it would not be floating in the air. I was thinking rivets for the plate would be more than enough. If the plate was fully supported. Airplanes are held 95% together with rivets. If They hold the wings on a 737 they will hold down a fully supported plate right? I don't plan on installing footholds or widinging the tray. And correct me if i'm wrong but for alot of builds don't guys rivet in there footholds before fiberglassing?

 

[NVJAY775]

Yes they do.

 

[speedysprocket]

The rivets just keep the holds in place while they glass them- they're not structural. I think you'll have too much flex with rivots only and it'll eventually start to break the silicone's bond over time and you'll be leaking again. Do it right, and do it less often.

 

[alberta guy]

I just went through 30 pages of looking at all the my ski SN builds. Heres my question. Is it even worth it to refoam my ski? I'm not putting in footholds. The ski still floats level. I only weigh 150lbs. Its just going to be a lake cruiser. Is it even worth it to defoam and refoam the ski?

 

[XJCrawler]

Yes its still worth, my sn felt like it gain another 25hp defoaming it. Using 2 part foam is a waste of time, yes it can help support the tray, but your sn will leak again. Cut the tray out, defoam, re-enforce and run polystyrene foam

 

[Big Kahuna]

So i'm about to start my winter rebuild on my ski. I've spent alot of time reading all the defoaming topics. Being i'm a tradesmen in a machine shop with access to all kinds of tools materials ect. Instead of reglassing and sanding the tray back in. Would it work if when i cut the tray leave a 2'' lip all the way around and laser measure and cut a piece of titanuim or aluminum that sits on the lip all the way around and is riveted and siliconed in? I plan to use the foam from home depot that is waterproof and install drains so if water gets in I can get it back out.

You are way over thinking this. Cut out above the pump area, dig out any wet foam. Fill back up with foam, use a orbital sander or a mouse sander after foam dries. Sand smooth, mix up resin with some adhesive addidtive, glue the square section back down. Glass over........ If you are installing footholds or re-installing footholds, you can totally defoam from just the cutouts, or cut a rectangular section out midway up, watch out for the exhaust tube.......... What you are talking about doing is overkill, adding weight and not needed.
Keep it simple, it works.

 

[alberta guy]

So i was also looking at this for poly foam.
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/c-2...ulation-24-in-x-96-in-x-1-in-butt-edge/905948
If I did refoam I was also planning to install drain plugs so if it did leak i could just pull the plugs out. When we go to the lake for the week my skis sit in the water for the whole week so im sure the water will find its way in.

 

[Big Kahuna]

you need to find a way to pull them out of the water!!!!!!!!!

 

[NVJAY775]

What he said. Water always finds a way in. Keep them on a stand, or trailer if possible. And that foam is the stuff you're looking for. Expanded polystyrene.

 

[jetpilot808]

I would have to disagree a bit, I refoamed a ski that was for the most part dry inside. I would first install drains in the back and see if you have lot of water come out. It all depends, I got some skiis that I don't plan on keeping forever, and sure not going to defoam every one of them. If it was my ROK and it felt heavy or sinking to one side or I needed to install footholds, maybe then....just my .02

 

[alberta guy]

But back to my original question. Doing my math based on the size volume and weight of the gas cap cover. Using a piece of 1/4" titanium that is supported by the foam would be lighter than reglassing in the piece of the tray. And using 1/4 aluminum would weigh the same. Based on adding a 30 percent weight gain for the weight of the extra fibreglass and resin. This also based on the tray being a 1/4" thick.

 

[Roseand]

If you're doing all this work I wouldn't even hesitate to put in footholds.. Even just for a lake cruiser. If you ever are getting out of the water, they are very useful. And the extra tray space they give you is amazing..

Also, if you're not reinforcing, and just refoaming, it's not all that bad. Sure it's time consuming, but if you're reinforcing and resealing everything up and putting in cooling lines, trim tubes, etc, you have to get every single last piece of foam and foam residue out and prep everything perfectly clean. That gets to be a little bit of a pain. That's just me though, I used a huge screwdriver, scrapers, drill on a wire wheel, etc,. A drill on a wire wheel makes it a freeken breeze, it just gets very messy. Just make sure you have a shop vac! A drill on a wire wheel is at least 2x faster than just using a screwdriver or scraper. Super easy with it.
I'd say skip the whole riveting process, just glass over the tray. Looks much more sano and it's no doubt easier.. Plus less prone to leaks.

Just my .02

 

[NVJAY775]

Even if you're rec riding, footholds are so nice to help you hold onto the ski. And you've already got your turf and padding out. Not trying to bust your balls at all, just trying to help you avoid regrets later on when you look back and or progress to really wanting footholds.

 

[Roseand]

Even if you're rec riding, footholds are so nice to help you hold onto the ski. And you've already got your turf and padding out. Not trying to bust your balls at all, just trying to help you avoid regrets later on when you look back and or progress to really wanting footholds.

Spot on!

To the OP:
When I was deturfing last off season, I decided that since I had the turf off, I might as well install footholds for the heck of it. I had no idea how much I was going to use them, and if I was going to even like them. Now looking back, they were by far one of the best mods. I progressed so much faster with them, and they are so so nice. You have so much more leverage and control over the ski. I can't stress it enough. 99% of the time I ride in my holds, and I don't sit around and do freestyle all the time. Even for just cruising and jumping boat wakes they're good.. It was my first time ever working with fiberglass, and the install was pretty straightforward and simple. Put in some holds..

 

[alberta guy]

NO. No footholds what so ever. End of topic. Lol

 

[Roseand]

Just curious.. Why not?
Once you tell me then I'll shut up about it.

 

[alberta guy]

Just curious.. Why not?
Once you tell me then I'll shut up about it.

Every ski I have ridden with footholds I have hated. I have short arms so I just end up standing in front of them. If I was to put them in they would towards the front of the tray for me to be comfy in them which kinda defeats he purpose if they are not near the back of the tray. If I did anything I would mount straps in a surf stance. Or else glass in a one inch lip the length of the tray on both sides. I'm tall and built like a string bean so I do not need the extra width.