Rebuilding an ADA Sealed Bearing Steering System.

OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
This will be a work in progress that can be added to the tech section once fully fleshed out.

I pulled my ADA steering system apart to measure the size of the O-rings for @Big Kahuna and found that my system needed some attention as well.

http://adaracing.com/super-jet-sealed-steering-system/

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The rebuild is easy enough. Just clean everything really well and reassemble with new parts. The trick is finding the right parts and maybe sourcing some better ones to avoid the rusting bearings in the future.

It doesn't exist yet but it's been pitched to Neil @RMBC Freeride to possible develop a tuff-thrust washer setup for these like he did for the Yamaha and RRP systems.
http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...ild-kits-rrp-tuff-thrust.152296/#post-1938674

The following should make things easier for other's in the same situation. All parts are available through McMaster-Carr.

Small O-ring (1 needed);
- Thickness = 2.62 mm
- ID = 20 mm
- OD = 25 mm
- McMaster Part # = 1295N308 (Pk of 10 @ $6.24)

Viton O-ring.jpg

I could have chosen the standard Oil-resistant Buna-N O-rings but I don't need 100 kicking around the house for $14.22 when I can get 10 for $6.24.

Small O-ring.jpg


Large O-ring (2 needed);
- Thickness = 2.62 mm
- ID = 66.5 mm
- OD = 71.5 mm
- McMaster Part # = 9262K937 (Pk of 10 @$6.30)

Large O-ring.jpg

Thrust Needle Roller Bearing (2 needed);
- Thickness = 0.0785"
- ID = 35.5mm
- OD = 2.0380"
- McMaster Part # 5909K18 (Bearing, 2 needed @ $5.92 each)
5909K78 (1 mm washer, 4 needed @ $2.06)
5909K91 (3.5 mm washer, optional if required @ $16.10 each)*
* My steering plate is slightly thinner and I had some play so I ordered a couple extra 1 mm washers so I can make some adjustments.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rolling-element-thrust-bearings/=18fahgd

McMaster Thrust Needel Roller Bearing.jpg

The Total comes to $36.74 to rebuild 1 system or $56.82 for 2. (plus taxes and shipping)

Rebuilt Kit Part Numbers.jpg

My Hardware was re-useable but if you need new stuff;

Stainless Hardware (316 Stainless);
- M6 Flat Head Socket Screw = 93395A363 (Pk of 25 @ $10.62)
- M6 Flat Washer = 94205A250 (Pk of 50 @ $6.52)
- M6 Nylon Locking Nut = 90965A170 (Pk of 100 @ $6.86

Locking Collar (I ditched the bolt for a stud and locking collar on my setup);
- M10 Threaded Shaft Collar = 3014K15

Stainless M10 Locking Collar.jpg

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OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
FYI, here's what my system looks like after 3 seasons.

I greased it with Lucas Oil, Red and Tacky #2 before each ride.

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Pro-pulsion

Pro-pulsion

Location
Ontario, Canada
For the price it's a great rebuild kit. As for a better alternative to the bearings I do not believe it will ever exist if the central thought is to stay with stainless. Stainless is a rather soft metal as it is, you can get hardened stainless but it's not true stainless anymore as it needs to have ferrous metals mixed in, in order to achieve the hardened ability. This would be most commonly found in 400 series stainless such as bush craft knife blades or kitchen blades or the like. I have a very nice 440 "stainless" Ruko knife that rusted up on me one year from being wet in the sheath. The only true stainless is in the 300 series...at least that I am aware of...316 stainless being the better quality of it. There is only one other way 300 series stainless can be rather resilient to wear but it is nearly impossible to machine, that would be if the stainless was made with too low of an ash content. It has been a while but I memory serves, should the ash content be below either 2% or 0.2%...I forget which of the two it was now but it was a low number like that. It was just low enough that we couldn't machine it without going through dozens of inserts and making very very little progress. Of course it was not made to proper composition but that was the only time I have ever seen stainless be true stainless and resilient like hardened steel. I have often wondered if tungsten TIG welding core would make for a good non-rusting needle bearing alternative. I don't think it rusts at least, it always seems that the typical sealed bearings like wheel bearings, the outer casing never rusts but the ball portion does. Same with these captured bearing systems on the U.M.I steering units, the top and bottom plates always seem good, but the needle bearings always rust up along with the washers. I have thought about making delrin bushings for mine on many occasions as of lately. I think somebody did that in recent years though didn't they? Cold Fusion maybe?
 
OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
The ones I spec'd aren't even stainless. I don't know for sure but I doubt the original ones were either.

I have a tube of Kluber grease I use for my CNC ballscrews so I plan to try it out and see if it sticks around or protects any better than the Lucas stuff does.
 
Pro-pulsion

Pro-pulsion

Location
Ontario, Canada
Kluber is expensive stuff! We had to buy a jug of it for our one CNC, it was in a jug about 2/3 the size of a 2.2 lb protein powder jug and cost us in the area of $350! If you can find it, I think it is this stuff or whichever is the black version of it, is sticky as it gets, it doesn't wash out and meant for severe duty industrial applications. Not good for fast rotation ball bearings though such as that found in milling heads.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/silver-max-lithium-complex-molybdenum-grease/A-p8001937e
 
OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I snagged a couple tubes of GL 262 Microlube left over after a work project. The retail price is something like $126 tube.

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Jr.

Jr.

Standing Tall
Staff member
Site Supporter
Location
Hot-Lanta
Boyer, Why dont you just make the bearings out of sheet teflon? Neil ( Rcbmfreeride) did it on the old style ada steering years ago. Many I built back then are still going strong! I still have a couple of Neils kits. That way you get the metal bearings out of there completely. Run silicone based grease, and never look back. Neil has a thread floating around here someplace too!

If you do make it? Make me a set! I just installed a new style ada setup on my T1
Ill need it within a year!
 
smoofers

smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
Site Supporter
Location
Granbury, TX
I've used Lucas Red & Tacky II for years and to be honest I'm losing my faith in it. I plan to try Amsoil's racing grease, but sadly I still have a half full tube of Lucas in the grease gun and another unopened tube in reserve! I wonder if I should just give away my Lucas stuff and be done with it.
 
OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I rode yesterday with the rebuilt steering and couldn't be happier. I'm not sure what I did so wrong the first time I installed this setup but I got ti right this time and it's night and day different.

I had found the thickness was too tight and had added a nylon spacer but this time it went together perfectly and tightened down as it should have. It didn't loosen off at all and stayed nice and smooth the entire ride. It should hold the grease better and keep the water out as well.
 
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