Blaster question about epoxy
- Thread starter teddy
- Start date
NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
Lots of variables... What exactly are you doing?
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
I'd have a half a gallon on hand (a pint is probably enough though) and mix it in 8-16oz batches. Keep mixing and layering while it's wet/tacky until you're done.
NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
Hopefully others will chime in, but I think two would be more than enough. Wavedemon has madddd glassing skills.
2010brandingo
TEACH ME HOW TO DOUGIE!
- Location
- ATL
two should be plenty.
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
2 layers should be good, lay up the second layer while the first is still wet so they create a chemical bond when they dry. 3 layers would be even better and probably overkill.
The real problem with the blaster transom is it's shaped poorly and every time you land a jump the water tries to rip the rear lip off. Some guys have reshaped the transom at an angle to get rid of the rear lip.
The real problem with the blaster transom is it's shaped poorly and every time you land a jump the water tries to rip the rear lip off. Some guys have reshaped the transom at an angle to get rid of the rear lip.
NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
x2. Can't remember the thread, but there were some good pics of the rear bond line mod Wavedemon is talking about. I think he used polystyrene and cut it to fit / fill then glassed over it. Looked tidy.
thanks guys.. i called up us composites earlier and they told me the samething wavedemon said.wet the aera with resin wait 30min and apply the fiberglass so it sticks like gule then glass wait a few hrs and apply another layer of fiberglass so it creates a chemical bond.
for the rear lip i might wait till it looks nasty then fix.im surprised nobody ever made something that goes from the bolt holes on the lip to the hull so i dont rip off. { i was thinking of spraying foum in the lip and turfing from the deck to the hull so it covers it any thoughts on that}
for the rear lip i might wait till it looks nasty then fix.im surprised nobody ever made something that goes from the bolt holes on the lip to the hull so i dont rip off. { i was thinking of spraying foum in the lip and turfing from the deck to the hull so it covers it any thoughts on that}
NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
Wish I remember where I saw the pics the guy filled the lip with polystyrene and glassed over, because it turned out very nice. I will probably do that to mine this winter, if I get the time.
edit. It's more of a fill the lip then taper it to the transom. There's other options too. If you have the deck off and are reinforcing, maybe just cut the lip off altogether and glass it up solid. Two layers of biax from the inside and maybe some 12oz on the outside... Just a thought.
edit. It's more of a fill the lip then taper it to the transom. There's other options too. If you have the deck off and are reinforcing, maybe just cut the lip off altogether and glass it up solid. Two layers of biax from the inside and maybe some 12oz on the outside... Just a thought.
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NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
Good call dude. LOL!
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
That sounds like a pain in the ass. Plus, if I ever waited a half hour to put the glass on epoxy the epoxy would be dry. Don't wait for anything, mix in small batches and lay up.
This is how I would do it:
Sand the area you are going to reinforce with rough sand paper
clean with acetone
brush epoxy onto the area to be reinforced
lay pre-cut peice of fiberglass on wetted area
Use brush to push fiberglass into resin and to get rid of air bubbles, the cloth should be a little wet. if it's not, brush on more resin.
apply second layer of fiberglass, this layer should only be just wet enough to change colors (from white to semi clear), the drier the better. If it's too wet use a brush to remove excess resin
when using a brush on wet fiberglass it's better to use a stippling technique than to stroke it.
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im going to do it just how you said wavedemon everything at once basically.instead of waiting an hour here and there.i did a test sample with 2 layers at the sametime just wet them both and it worked good. now i got to figure out where to do this since its not 80deg like florida lol.
2010brandingo
TEACH ME HOW TO DOUGIE!
- Location
- ATL
thats the way to do it.