Pipe running really cool...

[Waternut]

I have a b pipe on my SJ and I've been slowly adjusting it to get the pipe warmer and ran into a problem. The bottom and middle screw are closed and the top is only open maybe a 1/4 turn. The pipe is warm but it's certainly not what I would consider to be optimal. Water temp is probably in the low/mid 70's and I can leave my hand on the chamber and pipe with no problems.

Would only opening the bottom or middle screw work better?

 

[Smokin'FX-1]

I usually follow this from the FP site.

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Univers,Zurich BT,sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Most Factory Pipe systems have our exclusive "tunable" headpipe which allows you to custom tune the pipe to your riding style. The following information gives a general overview of how this system works and how each adjustment will affect the performance of your watercraft.

Double check all hoses, bolts and clamps from your installation. For the first "on-water" test of your new Factory Pipe we recommend closing the top and middle adjustment screws and opening the bottom screw 3/4 turn out from closed. This setting will be more water than is required but will provide a good starting point to test the pipe.

Ride the watercraft for several minutes while varying the throttle position. Put the boat through a long series of slalom turns keeping the engine loaded. Hit the kill switch or pull the lanyard and let the boat come to a stop. Open the engine cover as quick as possible and check the pipe temperature by splashing water on the chamber body directly after the headpipe coupler. The water should lightly sizzle for the first few inches on the chamber body. If the water does not sizzle, close the bottom adjustment screw 1/8 turn and retest. If the water sizzles rapidly, open the bottom screw 1/4 turn and retest.

This set up will provide the best top end performance for your watercraft. With the pipe adjusted as stated above, open the top screw 1/4 turn. This will cool the exhaust in the headpipe and provide better bottom end performance at the expense of some top-end. This would be an ideal setting for running slalom or a tight buoy course. If you want a change that is somewhere in the middle of the two settings, close the top screw and open the middle screw 1/4 turn or add another 1/8 turn to the bottom screw. Some engines may react differently from the above. For example, while testing the 650 Super Jet we found that we gained top end performance by running the top screw open and the others closed. You may use any combination of the three screws to achieve the desired performance. However, AT LEAST ONE SCREW MUST REMAIN OPEN AT ALL TIMES TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE PIPE.[/SIZE][/FONT]

 

[yankeeboy]

how are your cooling lines set up

 

[Waternut]

I've read the FP recommendations many times but like so many reputable manufacturers, they are more concerned with top end speed. Therefore, bottom end power in their book is not the same kind of bottom end that most freestylers are looking for.

My cooling is a dual setup in the redundant style. Both lines from the pump go to the exhaust manifold, both come out of the head, one goes out the pisser, the other goes to the bottom of the pipe, then out the top where it's T'ed to the stinger and pisser with a FCV.

 

[McDog]

Ice, Ice, Baby! Too cold, Too cold.

Your just too cool for your superjet man.

Definitely riding tomorrow unless it storms all day. Come on out we will warm that baby up for you.