- Location
- United States
Best way to go at that problem is from the inside - it is time consuming to take the stuff out but worth it in the long run.
300/440/550 paint,gel,glass repair???
- Thread starter rschap1
- Start date
- Location
- Murray Lake Lowell MI
I am just waiting for some warmer temps right now.
I have had the West Marine epoxy resin and hardener for a couple months now, but this past weekend temps were still in the teens
I am planing on sticking a layer of mesh inside each of the openings I ground through and a couple on the outside.
Is there anything equal to the spot putty or laquer putty used for autobody repair, or do you just have to get the resin nice and smooth?
I know I used auto (orange colored) spot putty to fill scratches last time and looks like that was a no-no.
Thanks again ! ! !
I have had the West Marine epoxy resin and hardener for a couple months now, but this past weekend temps were still in the teens
I am planing on sticking a layer of mesh inside each of the openings I ground through and a couple on the outside.
Is there anything equal to the spot putty or laquer putty used for autobody repair, or do you just have to get the resin nice and smooth?
I know I used auto (orange colored) spot putty to fill scratches last time and looks like that was a no-no.
Thanks again ! ! !
screaming440
The Old Skool Professor
- Location
- KC/Lake of The Ozarks
I am just waiting for some warmer temps right now.
I have had the West Marine epoxy resin and hardener for a couple months now, but this past weekend temps were still in the teens
I am planing on sticking a layer of mesh inside each of the openings I ground through and a couple on the outside.
Is there anything equal to the spot putty or laquer putty used for autobody repair, or do you just have to get the resin nice and smooth?
I know I used auto (orange colored) spot putty to fill scratches last time and looks like that was a no-no.
Thanks again ! ! !
it is too bad that you were told this. it is not true poly will bond to SMC. the people that tell you different are just parrotting what they have been told dont have any experiance with this. i have a ski in my garage right now that i did a much larger repair with bondo fiberglass over twenty years ago and i have had no problems.
the fiberglass repair is an adheasion bond as long as the surface is rough it will stick to SMC, steal, aluminum ect. i know this cuz i've done it not cuz someone told me.
i have seen both poly and epoxy repairs fail but it was clear that the surface they were on was not sanded with a course grinder.
you can back any large holes in the repair with cardboard for suport just put a layer of ducktape over the carcboard and it will peal right up when you are done. or get some expandable foam spray it behind the holes then shape it with a knife.
use a fiberglass gelly filler and then regular body filler to skim it. then shoot some poly primer over it guide coat buy dusting spray paint over it and block it till the spray paint is gone.
screaming440
The Old Skool Professor
- Location
- KC/Lake of The Ozarks
my kids put a hole in one of our 750s last year at a race. i had to fix it in just a few day to get to the next race. used fiberglass resin from walmart and bondo fiberglass gelly for the repair. had no problems with it or any of the other ten or so skis i have repaired this way.
screaming440
The Old Skool Professor
- Location
- KC/Lake of The Ozarks
this is my 440 that i have had for 25 years. i put a fist size hole in the front right corner of it in 1994. it is still in primer, repaired it the same way in 94' it has had some big power in it and not even one crack!
- Location
- Murray Lake Lowell MI
Either way...I had already got the epoxy resin and used the mat out of my "Bondo" kit. I would have needed hardener for the resin from that kit too. But, I pulled the gas tank and water box out. Cut some strips and squares to patch up the backside. Patched the outside and started smoothing out outer areas. It was still colder than I preferred, but wanted to get on it. Hopefully this weekend I will sand the outside patches and apply another skin coat of resin, hoping I am on my way. I appreciate knowing that I may not have needed the epoxy resin, but I did hear a bunch of times from others on ski and offshore boating sites that "epoxy sticks to everything" or pretty similar to that. I did a far better job prepping and added the inside mesh, hopefully strong enough to hold up like yours. Screaming440-what a cool facebook site That Vintage stuff is AWESOME ! ! ! Growing up in Grand Rapids, not far from Butch's and being in my early 40 now, those were "the good ole' days" AWESOME STUFF ! ! ! Thanks everyone
That Vintage stuff is AWESOME ! ! ! Growing up in Grand Rapids, not far from Butch's and being in my early 40 now, those were "the good ole' days" AWESOME STUFF ! ! ! Thanks everyone 
If you need to use a body filler I'd use dura glass. Reg body filler can suck up water and is not as durable it might chip out. But dura glass is some amazing stuff. I use it on everything from semi trucks to cars. And of course skis. I'm building two custom hulls now and helping my friend with a few more. 
- Location
- Murray Lake Lowell MI
Not looking like I will need anything else for product at this point. I used the West Systems 105 resin. Glassed a few layers inside. A few more outside where I had ground out the small cracks. The only hard part was getting the resin to set where I needed it. Getting any kind of fill or build up was difficult. I have since been told to use Cabosil for a thickener and I think that would have made things way easier, next time I will know. I actually used some thick vinyl tape to make "dams" and hold the resin in place a couple times. Just spread what I think will be my last coat of resin last night. AND it is finally above freezing temps here Talk about timing. Everything looks solid, maybe even better than original in the repaired areas, thicker and more cloth matting for sure. I am hoping just sanding, paint, my homemade replacement decals, clear over those, and put the filler neck for the gas tank back in...COME ON SUMMER ! ! ! !
Talk about timing. Everything looks solid, maybe even better than original in the repaired areas, thicker and more cloth matting for sure. I am hoping just sanding, paint, my homemade replacement decals, clear over those, and put the filler neck for the gas tank back in...COME ON SUMMER ! ! ! !- Location
- Murray Lake Lowell MI
Well the repaired areas seem solid as can be. I have everything smoothed out sanded and been trying to paint now... I have 5 or 6 attempts at getting a nice coat of spray can enamel gloss white. On my 3rd brand of spray paint and I just cannot get it to lay down nice and smooth I thought it may have been the weather the first few times, but not sure now. First 2 or 3 times it was still cold here. Paint would go on nice take a wet sheen then start orange peeling, fish eye ing up, then getting a crackled look. I been wet sanding between tries until everything is nice and smooth again then reshooting. It's just spray enamel, right? Last night temps were in the high 60s low 70s, figured this would be it. Wet sanded lightly with 400 grit and started spraying. I have tried LOTS of light coats and waits between, but got some rough finishes. Thought I would get more adventurous and laid everything on pretty heavy. Close to runs and sags but not quite. First few coats looked good. Could tell it was getting thicker. 3-4 minutes between sprays. I started packing up for the night, figuring on last coat and head in for dinner. Get ready to spray and crackles, bumpy, and orange peely. Almost looks like something getting lifted and leached out in a couple small spots. Really I think it is just shrinking or something. Or, only thing I can stretch my imagination to believe is that still wet from sanding. I blew everything off REAL good, wiped down with paper towels, then 15-20 minutes later went over with a tack rag, and started spraying. It was warm and sunny. Ski started out in the drive in the sun and everything had me figuring dry enough...I just have never had to work so hard to spray can anything Then I gotta get my new homemade vinyl printed decals on, clear over those, and get 2 new batteries. Hopefully some REAL summer weather will be here then. Appreciate any tips, tricks, or advice for painting the nose if anyone has any. THANKS ! ! !
I thought it may have been the weather the first few times, but not sure now. First 2 or 3 times it was still cold here. Paint would go on nice take a wet sheen then start orange peeling, fish eye ing up, then getting a crackled look. I been wet sanding between tries until everything is nice and smooth again then reshooting. It's just spray enamel, right? Last night temps were in the high 60s low 70s, figured this would be it. Wet sanded lightly with 400 grit and started spraying. I have tried LOTS of light coats and waits between, but got some rough finishes. Thought I would get more adventurous and laid everything on pretty heavy. Close to runs and sags but not quite. First few coats looked good. Could tell it was getting thicker. 3-4 minutes between sprays. I started packing up for the night, figuring on last coat and head in for dinner. Get ready to spray and crackles, bumpy, and orange peely. Almost looks like something getting lifted and leached out in a couple small spots. Really I think it is just shrinking or something. Or, only thing I can stretch my imagination to believe is that still wet from sanding. I blew everything off REAL good, wiped down with paper towels, then 15-20 minutes later went over with a tack rag, and started spraying. It was warm and sunny. Ski started out in the drive in the sun and everything had me figuring dry enough...I just have never had to work so hard to spray can anything Then I gotta get my new homemade vinyl printed decals on, clear over those, and get 2 new batteries. Hopefully some REAL summer weather will be here then. Appreciate any tips, tricks, or advice for painting the nose if anyone has any. THANKS ! ! !
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