Overheat sensor on wet pipe??

Martin33

LIVE ACTION !
Location
Azle, Texas
I installed a wet pipe on my SXR and in the directions it says nothing about the overheat sensor. I have the R&D advance plate intalled already, im leaving the green pig tail that came with the pipe disconnected (otherwise it would be 12 degrees advance instead of 6) and im not sure if I need to simply disconnect it, or mount it somewhere in the engine compartment. Theres no where to install it back into the wet pipe. Ive looked back on recent posts and didnt come across anything. What should I do??

Thanks, Daniel
 
i believe its eliminated with After market pipes.
If you ride in the salt the OH sensor terminals should be tucked back into the box or well insulated against water so they don't short
 

Martin33

LIVE ACTION !
Location
Azle, Texas
So in my case, I guess I need to disconnect both green and white, and stuff them back into my E-box?? Am I getting this straight??

Thanks, Daniel
 

cmeripper26

Ripper26
Location
Connecticut
I would run the green bypass on the green plug that factory pipe sends u and get rid of the r&d timing advance plate. I have had my wet pipe installed for about 4 years and not had one problem with running the bypass on the over heat sensor. I even switched to an Advent iginition set up and have not had one problem with timing or little backfires or anything timing related. Whatever u do just dont run that bypass with the timing advance plate as somebody above had mentioned.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
I would run the green bypass on the green plug that factory pipe sends u and get rid of the r&d timing advance plate. I have had my wet pipe installed for about 4 years and not had one problem with running the bypass on the over heat sensor. I even switched to an Advent iginition set up and have not had one problem with timing or little backfires or anything timing related. Whatever u do just dont run that bypass with the timing advance plate as somebody above had mentioned.

With the jumper there is no guarantee that you will get 4 degrees of advance. It may only net you 2 degrees, could be 5 degrees. With the timing plate you are controlling the actual static timing of the ignition. Why take a guess at something when you could do it right?

With the Plate, depending on the MFG, you can get any where from 4 - 7 or 8 degrees advance.
 
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Location
st.pete
you can leave the green heat sensor in with the plate it wont advance the timming inless you over heat which it will run like shi@ and then you know you have a prob
 

X2Pilot

X2 v2.0
Location
Sin City USA
So much wrong info here its not even funny! Some is correct but some of it will get you a blown motor!

The green plug is an AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR. It is there to advance the timing depending on air temperature...
If you jumper it, as in plugging in the FPP supplied loop it goes to the maximum timing advance that the electronics will allow, 6°. The sensor works on resistance, so if you short it out, "jumper" it, ignition advance goes to 6°, not 2, not 3, not 4, it goes to 6.

The white plug is the stock pipe temp sensor, and it closes the circuit at a set temperature
(203°) signaling the ignition to go into limp mode, in turn restricting engine rpms to 3500 or less as a safety against severe engine damage due to overheating.

If you are using an advent ignition, the green plug does NOTHING. You can leave the sensor bulb in place, you can unplug it, you can have the FPP jumper installed, it will still do nothing.

More bad info:
you can leave the green heat sensor in with the plate it wont advance the timing inless you over heat which it will run like shi@ and then you know you have a prob

Once again, the green plug is air temperature sensor, and has nothing to do with overheating engine...
If you take this advice, when you are WOT and the air temp is very hot you are going to blow your motor up from detonation because your timing will be 12° advanced beyond what your ignition curve is. DO NOT INSTALL AN R&D ADVANCE PLATE AND THE FPP JUMPER AT THE SAME TIME.

I hope this information is helpful
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
back in 2004 when the SXR's came out with the new ignition, several racers posted about inconsistency of the jumpers whereas the timing plate was a known part to work and set the timing where you want it.

Why take a chance.
 

X2Pilot

X2 v2.0
Location
Sin City USA
BK I can agree that for peace of mind the plate is a better option, but only because it is tangible, you can SEE it. Electronics are mysterious and foreign to most. I know that the only way that the jumper would give you less than the 6° advance is if there was a bad connection, corrosion or the like, but it would be less than 6° not more. The resistance of that short piece of wire and the connector is so negligible that it would be nearly impossible to get anything else than that out of it.

My post wasnt really directed at your statement it was more the misinformation that was given by others, which would cause someone to deto their motor.
 

djkorn1

kidkornfilms
Site Supporter
Location
Cleveland Ohio
I switched to the newer SXR electronics from my 2003 stuff. My timing is advanced (I believe 4 degrees) by the Vilder Flywheel. (although no-one has been able to say for sure). I am not running a timing advance and the green and white plugs are just hanging out flopping around.....

Could this be causing my salt water issues????

The boat runs like a raped ape in fresh water. My only other motor part is a Wet Pipe and a head (that does nothing but look cool. 155psi).

I have a 1 year old stock coil...and a 1 year old stock stop/start switch...
 

Martin33

LIVE ACTION !
Location
Azle, Texas
As of right now I have the advance plate installed, and both white and green disconnected, the loop IS NOT plugged in. I started it last night and seemed to run like a charm.

Daniel
 

X2Pilot

X2 v2.0
Location
Sin City USA
DJK, I have heard of corrosion building up in the green connector when its left open like that, causing running problems. Packing it with dialectric grease has been the solution, but even better would be de pin the connector and tuck the conductors back inside the e-box
 

Martin33

LIVE ACTION !
Location
Azle, Texas
What I found out that was a little cleaner job, was to unplug all 4 wires in your E-box (which goes to both sensors), heat shrink all 4 wires, wrap with a little E-tape for a little more insurance and tuck into your E-box where they are out of the way.

Then for the threaded hole on the outside for your E-box, take your white "joint" (which has male threads on both ends) wrap both ends with white teflon tape. Go buy a brass female plug that threads onto the external threads so you will be pluging the hole. Then snug the joint to the ebox, and the brass fitting to the joint. This way you have no wires dangling outside of your ebox, and its a nice clean look. If that all makes sence. lol

Daniel
 
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