OEM reeds for stock ski

I ordered some fiber Boyesen 026 Power Reeds. Need a few other parts but I'll update once I get them installed.

The stock ones look good, no cracks or anything. I don't know if they fail spontaneously or fatiguing would be visible though...

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In my opinion that is the problem with the stainless ones, they really don't show any signs of wear before they go.

Let us know how the Boyesen ones go and post some pictures.

I just installed a set of the Boyesen 023 reeds on my 6M6 650 and because they use two petals the stock screws were too short and only grabbed like 2 threads. I had to take the new ones from my OEM SS 62T set and a few extras I had. I don't know how Boyesen expects you to mount them without providing longer screws.

It also helps to have a JIS screwdriver for these and it is the same as used on the Mikuni carbs. The little dimple on the screws signifies it's JIS and not a Phillips. Japanese Industrial Standard = JIS
 
Oh crap, really, I need different screws? Now I know what you mean about two petals thick – and two threads of engagement will not cut it. I will check when I receive them and see if that issue is just with the 6M6. I'll have to do some more research and try to find something from McMaster to replace them.

Yes I have a JIS #2 bit from Motion Pro. I saw the dots on several screws in different places and figured that's what it meant. I haven't stripped a single screw on the carbs, this bit is perfect. No need for socket head cap screws on the carb covers either.

Ok I'll post some photos. I was not able to find much of any feedback from people who installed them so I'll also leave some feedback after a ride or two.
 
Ok, one seller fumbled it and I lost two weeks. Next seller, finally got them. I can confirm the Boyesen -026 is the correct part and one of them for $65 includes a full set of reeds for the ski. Made in USA!

The stock petals are 0.21mm thick, and the Boyesen stack 1.04mm.

I am trying to decide about buy 8mm long screws to replace the stock 7mm screws. They went from 8 1/4 turns to 6 1/2 turns of engagement. Stock M3x0.5 7mm screw has just over 1D engagement with the Boyesen reeds. I would really like to keep the OEM hardware with integrated washer but the engagement is marginal per any design guidelines...

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I actually did a test with 271 and 242. The blue seemed like it had more torque to back out a day later. I wonder if it has to do with the fine thread pitch?

Ok I'll add some red and ship it.
 
Got it buttoned up tonight with the Boyesen reeds. Threebond 1211 on each gasket surface of new OEM gaskets. I'll wait 2-3 days for the adhesive to fully cure then make sure it runs. Going to hit the lakes in a month.

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550headache

tobacco grower
Location
tobacco valley
Why doesn’t v-force make reed blocks for super jets? They are far superior IMO to stock and the other options out there. Use them in all my sleds and bikes and they work as advertised. Stinks there not available for the stand ups. I even have a set in my Yamaha Sno scoot and it woke that little sucker up!


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Why doesn’t v-force make reed blocks for super jets? They are far superior IMO to stock and the other options out there. Use them in all my sleds and bikes and they work as advertised. Stinks there not available for the stand ups. I even have a set in my Yamaha Sno scoot and it woke that little sucker up!


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https://store.mototassinari.com/index.php/v3140-794-2.html

They're readily available and a lot of us use them.
 
Took the ski out for the first time since the reeds were replaced. I rebuild the carbs with genuine Mikuni parts (pump, diaphragms, needles/seats, check valves ... the works) at the same time since they have never been touched. Stock L and H needle setting.

At first ran rough on the bottom, if you stabbed it WOT from idle it would hesitate then die. Adjusted the L from 7/8 to 1 turn and now it runs good again.

This ski was always very responsive, even more than my new 2017. I'd say it is a tad less responsive but I may just need to give it a bit more low speed screw. I'll try adding a bit more when we go to the lake tomorrow.

Overall pleased with the reeds.
 
In my experience the stock stainless reeds actually perform a little better and crisper than the Boyesen and when installing the Boyesen no matter how you flip them you can’t get them to seal perfectly on the cages. That being said I don’t want the chance of a stainless reed destroying my engine so I’ll stick with the Boyesen.
 
Location
Idaho
How long should I run my stock reeds? My SJ is a 2013, not sure what kind of time it has on it, but seems like it isn't a ton, still good compression.
 
I have had 701’s with stock reeds over 25 years old and the reeds look perfect and have never seen a failed one.

My guess is yours have many years left. I think lots of water ingestion might shorten their life more than anything.

I think for most it’s a better safe than sorry thing when doing a rebuild as I think the actual failure rate is very very low.
 

Req

Location
SW Tenn
I think the issue is that the cost is so high if they do fail. I inspected mine and they looked perfect, later in the season they took out my engine, crank, and pitted my domes.

Im sure you are right, the actual failure rate is low, however the failure cost is astronomical compared to what carbon reeds will do.

Piston kit 180
Domes 100
Crank 150

Ultimately its all about what risk you are willing to call acceptable as with anything else in this sport.
 
I think you are fine for many more years on a low hour 2013.

I only replaced them on my 1999 that had stock reeds and untouched carbs because I already had it apart to rebuild the carbs. Going to leave my 2017 as-is.
 
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