New To The X2

[SilverSurfer]

First of all, I like to say thanx for letting me be apart of this forum, and hope to be around for a long time.
I just recently purchased my first jet ski, an 1989 650 X2 and I am not afraid to say this project is leaving me with a lot of question.
I have been working on 2 strokes all my life and have respectfully gain alot of knowledge, but still have much to learn of the 'Black Art'. But; having done a deal of research, especially reading the forum here, I have found I have a whole lot of learning to do.

I picked my X2 up locally for $450.00 which seemed to be a fair price, I does start, but it defianetly needs a good carb cleaning. The hull is decent, but needs some 'TLC'. It looks to be watertight, but I have not had it in the water yet. Reglassing and painting will be a good winter project.
Right now, I would just like to get it running properly so I can try it in the water, if that is the correct way to do it. I know the is an hose connection so I can properly bench test, but, (Suggestions).
I have also read I should install 2 aftermarket bilge pumps near the bulk head, if so how do you choose where on the hull to exit them?
In picture 3, it shows the base's filler cap; now do you use a lubricant in the base, like Bel Ray Gear or is this what I heard is a greased bearing base? Man I hope that is the right way to ask this question.
If it needs oil in the base, what is the quanity?
In picture 4, is this an Hot Start or what, cause I do not know. Its' cable is disconnected and just laying in the hull. It has a 'S' on the front side and an 'R' on the back side.
Any and all suggestion are welcomed. Usually, whenever I get a new toy, I'll pull the powerplant and break it down to get intament knowledge of it's clearances, tolerances, etc.. but are summer season is almost over and I would like to get to ride this atleast once so I can get a feel on what I would like to mod.

Does anyone know where I can get download a PDF service manual for this or does any one have one they don't need? I think that would help alot. Does anybody have any use for them pontoons I took off?

Oh yeah, what kind of battery does this take, I started it with a jump pack. Are there certian marine batteries you must use or just an small engine 12volt one?

Thanx

p.s. Sorry so many questions

 

[w-nut]

you dont need to run any oil in the front cover (question 3). it should be dry in there as that is where your flywheel and stator plate hide in there with the starter clutch .
the leaver on the bottom off the stop start switch it the choke for the carb , to make it easer to start when cold. most people pull the choke off there skis and use a primer . makes them start alot easer.
if the ski starts and runs ok , get out there and ride it and have fun .

 

[shawn_NJ]

Do NOT put oil in the timing inspection hole (pic 3).

You probably only need one bilge pump (500gph). The exit can be anywhere above the water line, but its a good idea to loop the water hose high in the hull so water doesnt come back in through the outlet. You have a nice westcoast aftermarket head, you might want to check the compression. I'd definetly run super 93 gas. Exactly what w-nut said, clean the carb, put fresh gas in it, and rip it up!

 

[SilverSurfer]

you dont need to run any oil in the front cover (question 3). it should be dry in there as that is where your flywheel and stator plate hide in there with the starter clutch .
the leaver on the bottom off the stop start switch it the choke for the carb , to make it easer to start when cold. most people pull the choke off there skis and use a primer . makes them start alot easer.
if the ski starts and runs ok , get out there and ride it and have fun .

Thanx W-Nut and Shawn_NJ

I am going to pull the carb off today and get it cleaned and from all the pics I have looked at the battery I need is jus' a small engine one. Hopefully it will run strong.
Is the PSI on a strong cylinder 150?
So this X2 base does not run any oil what so ever; I now understand my pic was the stator cover, but is the somewhere on the back-side where it runs gear oil or not?

Thanx Again!!!:fingersx:

 

[WFO Speedracer]

No oil in the engine at all except what is injected either by the oil pump from the oil tank or put into the gas as premix.

 

[shawn_NJ]

Your motor is setup for premix. You should to add 40:1 ratio of some TWC3 rated 2stroke oil, to your gas before you fill the tank. Thats the only oil you need for the motor as wedo said. The crank and lower end is lubricated by the premix gas that goes through the intake attached to the lower cases. No oil changes....lol I never ran the westcoast head I had, but it could be 130-200+psi depending on the domes & condition of the topend. IMO if its over 170psi you need to run super (I'd run super anyway), over 190 I'd limit my WOT runs or run a mix of AV/race. Thats why I suggested check your compression. Just to be safe.

 

[SilverSurfer]

Thanx for all the help! Yeah I do know that the crank is lub'd by the premix, but I jus' could not get it out of my head, that the was a gear case somewhere in there that needed a lil' lube now and then.
Like I said, 2 strokes, cake, well burnt cake, but the inner workings of a jet ski a whole new world for me. But so far been a blast.
I always run 40:1 in most everything I own. I run Klotz techniplate for sleds. There's nothing like the smell of Klotz in the morning!
I got the X2 running and running what to seem pretty strong, but yet to hit the water, hopefully tomorrow afternoon. I think I need to turn the idle down a lil' though.
Yes I run a 50/50 mix of Cam12 and 93 pump in my 86' 250R. It runs a shaved CR250 head, bored .20 over w/a 4 over stroker crank in it. Out of the box they run 165/170, my purrs revs at 219 psi. I should run straight race fuel, but the cheapest around here is $11 a gal. Detonation is a killer, but she doesn't ping, so I ride her hard.
Also, I have found the carb manifold is also a WestCoast, and it seems the carb has a velocity stack, (?) I saw the carb was a Mikuni, but the bore I am not sure, I'd say 36 to 38, but not sure. I have posted some more pics, to show these and to see if someone knew if these are an aftermarket pipe and waterbox.(?)
Again you guys are great and thanx for the help again. I will put a link to my youtube vid of my 250R tonight, jus' in case someone wants to see one of my projects.:Banane57:

 

[shawn_NJ]

Your waterbox is the stock 86. YOU HAVE A FACTORY PIPE exhaust! CONGRATS thats worth just about what you paid for the ski...ALONE. If the carb is mikuni its aftermarket. REAL nice find for $450!!!

 

[WFO Speedracer]

You have all the right stuff there,hopefully it tunes in ok and runs well.

 

[wadman]

Your waterbox is the stock 86. YOU HAVE A FACTORY PIPE exhaust! CONGRATS thats worth just about what you paid for the ski...ALONE. If the carb is mikuni its aftermarket. REAL nice find for $450!!!

yep! thats A FACTORY PIPE all right!

 

[SilverSurfer]

Well by the sounds of it I finally done sumpin' good:arms:

So are 'Factory Pipes' still available today? Shawn_NJ said they worth what I paid for the ski itself ($450), but what I would like to know; now that I have found I have atleast a few mods, WestCoast Head and manifold, a larger bore Mikuni, and a Factory Pipe, what does that mean in numbers.
Ballpark figure, I have read these X2s would scoot, 40 to 45 on the water, what does someone think I should be around now?
What also comes to mind, if someone has done these mods, would you think they would change out to another impeller. And how would I tell?
Are there any other mods that would necessarily go hand to hand with the mods that are already done to my ski?
Also, should I use a lanyard or not?
Does anyone have a service manual to sell or where to get a PDF one?

Thanx

 

[shawn_NJ]

www.factorypipe.com
You have the 650 chamber, thats on backorder until sometime in 09. You can run other chambers but for now enjoy what you have. It should go real good. Speed depends alot on your prop / pump setup as well as the motor. They would have had to swap the prop, or the ski would cavitate to the point its unridable. Maybe worth taking a look with a flashlight and seeing if you can real anything stamped on the hub. If its skat, it will have a # stamped on it. BUT....Dont worry about this right now and just throw it in the water (after you rebuild your carb and inspect fuel lines) and see how it goes. I have a feeling you'll like it alot...lol Unless you are riding big surf, I'd always run a lanyard.

 

[SilverSurfer]

www.factorypipe.com
You have the 650 chamber, thats on backorder until sometime in 09. You can run other chambers but for now enjoy what you have. It should go real good. Speed depends alot on your prop / pump setup as well as the motor. They would have had to swap the prop, or the ski would cavitate to the point its unridable. Maybe worth taking a look with a flashlight and seeing if you can real anything stamped on the hub. If its skat, it will have a # stamped on it. BUT....Dont worry about this right now and just throw it in the water (after you rebuild your carb and inspect fuel lines) and see how it goes. I have a feeling you'll like it alot...lol Unless you are riding big surf, I'd always run a lanyard.

As off right now I only have the start/stop switch on my bars, what kind of stop/kill that uses a lanyard switch (possibly also a key) do you suggest I should buy. I have been surfing around and know I should jus' ask what has already been proven to work; by the ones who use them.(?)

Thanx

 

[w-nut]

that is quite a nice wee set up you have there . it should keep you happy for awile untill the bug really bites lol. the pipe you have is thought to be one off the best you can put on a x2 , i have the same pipe on mine and the carb looks like it could be a 44mm sbn mikuni. if you have around 150-160 psi compression that is fine .
have fun on that thing .
and have a look up the intake tunnel at the prop , if its a stainless steel one it is a aftermarket one (alli is standard)

 

[shawn_NJ]

You can just take the face plate off of your start/stop and replace it with one of a kawi TS couch that has a lanyard adapter. Its 2 screws to change, and it take the standard kawi lanyard. These are not that cheap (50-80 bucks). But its the cheapest insurance you can buy if you ride near other people and boats. I had my steering cable get stuck @ 80% throttle and tossed me off 3/4mile out in a bay. Ski would have not stopped and I would have been REALLLY F____ED. After that I will not own a ski without one. There are cheaper alternatives if you dont mind rewiring (aftermarket PJS 440/550 switches, ect) If I ride surf and its over waist high I cheat and tie the lanyard to the handlebars...to avoid getting crushed by waves.

 

[SilverSurfer]

Thanx for the reply Shawn_NJ. I looked up the Kawasaki TS on the Kawasaki site and called a few dealers, the site shows, but doesn't list the face plate and/or whole switch. And the dealers told me they could not get it either. Does any one know where I might look for the TS kill/stop switch.

Thanx:veryhappy:

 

[w-nut]

the part number for a ts face plate is 32099-3738.
not sure if that is any help having the part number but it make the job alot easer for the dealer not having to look it up

 

[WB1994]

You've got a great setup there. When you take the carb apart look at the #'s on the jets and we can tell you if you are setup right for your mods.

150 PSI in compresion is a what these motors come with stock. On the head where the plugs are screwed in there are #'s. The last two #'s will tell you the dome size.

The other thing you'll find out is that top speed is less important than how quick you get to top speed. If you ever get a chance to ride a stock X2 you'll really apreciate what you have there.

EDIT: Also first thing is put some mtotcross bars on that thing ASAP. With a finger throttle (if it doesnt have one).

 

[SilverSurfer]

You've got a great setup there. When you take the carb apart look at the #'s on the jets and we can tell you if you are setup right for your mods.

150 PSI in compresion is a what these motors come with stock. On the head where the plugs are screwed in there are #'s. The last two #'s will tell you the dome size.

The other thing you'll find out is that top speed is less important than how quick you get to top speed. If you ever get a chance to ride a stock X2 you'll really apreciate what you have there.

EDIT: Also first thing is put some mtotcross bars on that thing ASAP. With a finger throttle (if it doesnt have one).

That exactly what I did yesterday. I stole a pair of Fly Fatty Bars from one of my 250R chassis', anodized blue ones. They look pretty cool.
And yes I rode her today at the lake, jus' got back, 'Can we say shrinkage!'. I was a friggin' blast, I even got to give the kids a ride. But, I not ashamed to say, I put the pontoons back on for that. No freestylin' jus' yet. It's my first ski. Baby steps:fing02:
I will get the numbers of the head tomorrow and man I do not remember the main jet size, but I will get them.
I defianetly have some questions though.
How much water actually should be inside the hull safely? In my hull, there was a couple of inches and the bilge seemed to only worked when I started my ski. Atleast, that was my observation. Are the bilges in skis design to turn on automatically? I know I need to get two bilges in there, but do most operate thiers manually?
How do you tell if water is circulating properly? If the two pissers on each side of the bow are throwing water, does that mean everything is ok?
Got to do sumpin' bout' that steering too!:thinkingAccu Steer or UMI)
I am so use to doing plug chops with my 2 strokes, how would truly tell if your running lean or rich on a ski?
I know I am running a Factory Pipe, but how close can the fuel cell be to the pipe? I know the pipe stays considerably cooler than a land 2 stroke, but should it touch/rub the cell? Or should there be a considerable space between them?
My last question, after riding for about 10 minutes staight, going the the whole range of the band, from high to low revs, my X2 suddenly bog right down hard. I had to constantly goose the throttle to limp back to my dock. It was like it got too hot and loaded up. As soon as I got back to shore I shut her down, took the hood off, there was alot of what seem steam, maybe some exhaust. But after a couple of minutes I started her back up and she ran strong again. Any ideas what I should look for? If the water is coming out the two pissers, shouldn't water be going through the water jacket? So it shouldn't be hot?
Sorry so many ?'s, and thanx for everyones help. It made the first ride that much better.:You_Rock_Emoticon:

 

[shawn_NJ]

I defianetly have some questions though.
How much water actually should be inside the hull safely?
There will be an inch or so at the bottom. X2s just leak alot.

In my hull, there was a couple of inches and the bilge seemed to only worked when I started my ski.
How do you have it wired? Did you install a switch? Did you use a regular RULE 500GPH pump? Where is your bilges positive wire connected to??

Atleast, that was my observation. Are the bilges in skis design to turn on automatically? I know I need to get two bilges in there, but do most operate thiers manually?
If you didnt buy an automatic bilge pump, it will not turn on automatically. Most people use waterproof manual rotary switches and fuse the positive wire.

How do you tell if water is circulating properly? If the two pissers on each side of the bow are throwing water, does that mean everything is ok?
If you run the motor hard for a few minutes and then drip some water on the motor it should NOT sizzle. If it does something is not right with the cooling system. The exhaust chamber CAN have a slow sizzle. Not an instant.

Got to do sumpin' bout' that steering too!:thinkingAccu Steer or UMI)
Yes stock steerin sucks. I am a UMI fan, but just an opinion.

I am so use to doing plug chops with my 2 strokes, how would truly tell if your running lean or rich on a ski?
Search, there is a million threads on plugs, piston wash, tach tuning.

I know I am running a Factory Pipe, but how close can the fuel cell be to the pipe? I know the pipe stays considerably cooler than a land 2 stroke, but should it touch/rub the cell? Or should there be a considerable space between them?
Gas tank and exhaust chamber should NOT TOUCH! I shove some hyrdoturf between the gas tank and chamber just to be safe.

My last question, after riding for about 10 minutes staight, going the the whole range of the band, from high to low revs, my X2 suddenly bog right down hard. I had to constantly goose the throttle to limp back to my dock. It was like it got too hot and loaded up. As soon as I got back to shore I shut her down, took the hood off, there was alot of what seem steam, maybe some exhaust. But after a couple of minutes I started her back up and she ran strong again. Any ideas what I should look for? If the water is coming out the two pissers, shouldn't water be going through the water jacket? So it shouldn't be hot?
Should NOT be steam in the motor compartment. Check engine temp via dripping water method after some hard riding to verify water does not sizzle on the motor/head. If it does you have to check your cooling. Doesnt hurt to blow some compressed air throught the cooling system to make sure its clear. This sounds like an overheat if it comes back to life after a few.

Hope it helps.

Sorry so many ?'s, and thanx for everyones help. It made the first ride that much better.:You_Rock_Emoticon: