new motor + 1.5 hours = bad motor

WTF!! I am furious.

My crank let go back in October and I didn't miss a beat getting parts shipped to "capable" shops to get it repaired. I should have just sent the whole thing to Chucky at X-Scream, but I tried to save a buck and sub-contract the stuff out myself.

I ordered Wiseco pistons and sent the cylinder, crank, crank bearings, and new Wiseco's to Pro-Tec. They sat on it for nearly 2 months before telling me they were unable to disassemble the crank. They also said my bore didn't clean up enough for the 85mm Wisecos to work. So they sold me a set of 85.5mm Pro-X cast pistons.

They sent my cylinder and crank back. I sent the crankshaft to Crankworks. They did a good job; they promised it in 3 weeks and finished it in 4 weeks. Not too bad. I got the whole thing cleaned up, assembled and running by the end of February.

I took it out on it's first run for <30 minutes on March 5th. Everything went fine except for a plug wire I forgot to firmly click down.

The next outing was ~March 12th. The water was still cold so we got in less than 1.5 hours of riding. We were jumping the wake behind my new Toyota Epic boat. Not too much wide open throttle, mostly just playing around. Ski ran fantastic with no problems at all.

I wanted to go again around the end of March, but the rest of the gang couldn't get their crap together. I did go out and start my ski for a few seconds to make sure it was ready to go. It fired up after some priming and settled to a nice idle. I blipped it and I thought the throttle stuck. It revved up, but sounded for lack of a better term FLAT. The kill switch wouldn't stop it. I held the kill switch and pumped the primer until it died. Classic lean condition/air leak, right?

I fired it up again and it revved fine, no overrev/stock throttle/flat sound. It started , revved, idled, and died no problem. My guess at the time was that it started on the primer gas, but the carbs didn't fill up with fuel for a few seconds and it was revving on a lean condition caused by empty carbs, and that once they filled up it wouldn't happen again.

So we had some great weather today and decided to hit the lake. I went out to check on my ski and make sure the battery was charged. It took some priming, but it started. I blipped it a second and it stuck. Same flat lean sound. I held the kill switch and went WOT it and it died.

BTW it doesn't rev up to redline, kind of a mid-high rpm, but not max rpm stick. If you pull the throttle it will rev higher, but it won't fall back to a nice idle.

I thought it would stop like it did before, but no luck.

I tried to narrow it down to one cylinder, so I removed the plug wire from the front cylinder and ran it, same with the back. It runs fine on one cylinder and will not over-rev.

We grabbed the air compressor and decided to do a leak test on the engine. I capped off the exhaust and carbs and we filled the hull with water up to about the shafts of the carbs. I put 8 psi on the fuel pump pulse line to the crankcase.

NO BUBBLES

We'll almost no bubbles. After a few seconds I saw a tiny one pop out of the rear crank seal, so where near enough to cause this problem.

I am telling this story out of order a little, but apparently my gas tank vent check valve may have also failed. I noticed that when I pulled the return line the tank released some pressure.

At this point I started to wonder if I lost a cylinder head o-ring. So we pulled the head. O-rings look fine, but that is when I realized that my cylinder with < 2 hours on it looks like total %^$#@! It is scored up like a seizure victim. WTF? Was it about to seize each time it did it's air-leak over rev? But there was no air leak? Could it have been caused by excessive pressure in the gas tank? How was the gas tank building up pressure (I'd say 1-2 psi) in less than 10 seconds of running?

Both cylinders are scored, the rear one is worse and the dome of the rear one is dark grey like METAL residue.

So THANKS if you have read this far.

My best guess is that something has failed on my back carb's fuel pump and it is somehow using the pulse signal from the crankcase to pressurize my fuel tank. My tank is set up as dual feed (one off the ON, and one off the RESERVE) and I noticed one of the filters was not filling up as quickly as the other.

Not knowing is the worst.

Aaron
 
Replying to my own thoughts...

I didn't change my jetting at all. It ran GREAT in 07 and just a +1mm overbore shouldn't have made enough difference to need a jetting change.

The old motor lost the front cylinder, the new motor shows the most problems with the rear cylinder.

I am 99% sure the crank died from old age. It was(is) and old ADA (I think) 5mm stroker crank that used a modified stock web with offset pin. No fancy billet parts here. It had at least 4 long seasons on it. It was 100% rebuilt by Crankworks with all new bearings.

So the failure of the old motor is not related to the failure of the new motor.

Aaron
 

nikad58

1974 YZ 701
i would still bet on a air leak.. I have never heard of a leak down test being done like your did yours on a jet ski, seems too hard to me to see everywhere looking for bubbles.. It should hold pressure (6 lbs for a minute of so)

No plug check ?

Pressure in a tank is normal on my skis, the check valve keeps it pressurized..
 
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waterfreak

I had a vision!
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I would say check your carbs. the scoring in your cylinders probably was caused from running too lean. Check your pulse lines, base and carb gaskets. Also , when you dissemble your carbs, carefully inspect the fuel pump diaphram. I have seen them have pin size holes caused by imperfections in the casting.

I hope this helped a bit!
 
I went after the cylinder with a hone today and 90% of the marks cleaned up. I'm going to pull the pistons off and clean them up. I'm also going to check out these carburetors. Once I get it all back together I will do a full leak down test before I run it. I hope I can find a definitive problem.

Aaron
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Replace the damaged piston,once it seizes thats pretty much it for that piston.I know thats not what you want to hear but its the truth.What you described sounds like a classic air leak,you said the rear cylinder failed and the rear seal is leaking.A lot of times the seal will leak when the engine heats up some causing a runaway lean condition.
 
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Got the engine out, carbs off, etc.

Jetting: 117.5 pilot and 102.5 mains
Pop off: 33 psi

The needle valve is a 2.3 and the spring looks like shiny silver to me. Maybe I am measuring pop-off wrong. Time to go back to the manual.

edit - the manual did not say, but when I measure pop-off is it when the needle first pulls off the seat, or is it when it REALLY POPS off and nearly blows the whole needle out of the seat?

OK, so re-tested and the needle pulls off the seat just barely at 12 psi and is flowing pretty good by 15 psi, and at 33 psi it nearly blows the the needle completely out of the seat.

Thanks,

Aaron
 
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#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Your needle and seats are junk and your main jets are too small.

I would use the 2.0 needle & seats with new 95 gram springs and start with 122.5 mains for a freestyle set-up.
 
Just an FYI these are Team Scream 44's that were supposedly set up by Chucky a few years ago. I bought the ski from Superramjet last summer and it ran AWESOME for 4 years until it lost a rod bearing this winter.

Aaron
 
Thanks for the pop-off tips in my other thread. Running the pressure up fast and putting a pool of penetrating lube in the area around the seat showed me a definite POP at 14 psi. Mikuni book says a 2.3 and a shiney silver should be 15 psi, so that seems about right.

Motor is out and ATS_Scott thinks he found a small air leak where I epoxied the bottom of the cases. With the shape of the cases the air bubbles might have been trapped under the cases and not shown up during my pressure test in the hull.

Edit - the goo we thought we saw coming out of the cases was 1/2 of the JB weld mixture. I'm thinking I tried to mix the JB weld right there and I guess I didn't get it mixed up good enough. I chipped off all the JB weld and used a 3M roto-lock disk to clean it up and the crack I thought I was fixing with the JB Weld doesn't go all the way through anyway, so that wasn't my problem either.

Aaron
 
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FINALLY I think I found something. I was re-assembling it today and found what could have been my problem. I have an ADA girdled head with the closed end acorn nuts. My ski has been in the ocean, so there is some corrosion. When I disassembled it some of the ADA studs cam a couple turns out of the cases and then stopped. I tried my GOOD stud pulley to remove them, but it was damaging the threads so I gave up. I should have paid closer attention.....

When I was reassembling today I noticed that one of the closed end acorn nuts was TIGHT, but the washer below it was still loose. I found a couple like this. Since the girdle studs are the only thing that holds the cylinder down, the cylinder was being pushed up under combustion pressure. The combustion pressure wasn't enough to do it at idle, but when I revved the engine it could have loaded it up enough to slightly lift the cylinder off the cases and cause my leak. This also explains why it passed the 8 psi leak down test.

If I can find stainless 10x1.25 nuts I will use them (poor chance of finding those), but most likely I will use double washers to make sure that the acorn nuts aren't bottomed out before they get tight against the cylinder head.

So I'm stupid and again caused my own problems again....live and learn.

Aaron
 
air leak

WOW, that is very interesting. I just recently added an ADA Gridled head, FAC B pipe, and VForce3 reeds and now have a run away motor out of water. I have been looking for different possibilities and this won caught my attention. I have already replaced the intake and carb gaskets w/ no improvement. the ski is an 07 SJ so i don't think it would be the cylinder gasket or below (at least i hope not). Thanks for taking the time to post your thread!


my thread
http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=165633
 
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