Mysterious spark issue!

WET BOX

STL Crew
Location
STL
Here is the scoop,

SATURDAY:

Ski ran poopy anything past half throttle. It felt a lot like the typical plug wire issue. Switched with JSS pimp daddy plug wires and coil for Sunday

SUNDAY:

Ski fired right up for 30-45 seconds, then died. Lack of spark was confirmed. Checked the fuse in the electrical box which fell apart. Replaced fuse. Rode ski for 4 minutes, then died and had to swim it in. Checked fuse again, and looked fine. Tried to start again and it fired right up. Ran for a minute then died. Again, I did NOTHING but unplug the fuse and/or fuse connector and plugged it back in and the ski would fire right back up. This process is repeatable.

I thought it was a bad fuse holder, but apparently not. It will not fire after it dies unless I disconnect the fuse or fuse connector.

Maybe the relay is bad?

Does something reset when the power is proken then reconnected?

Bad CDI?

I really have no clue. Has anybody else had this problem?

Thanks super cool dudes for your input :cool:

Later
 

rubbertoe

X-H20 certified
Location
San Diego
hey bro fell your pain right now .my ski ran awsome today,put a new set of straight bars on my all ready -3 set up they worked sick until my ski started f-ing up after a couple of decent barell rolls and nose stab combos my ski stalled i thought maybe water on the filters or running out of fuel hit reserve, nothing.got back in ,no spark.i am suspect of my stator or magneto .just wish i could get her started to get all the water out of her.she has literally been riden hard and put away wet
 

WET BOX

STL Crew
Location
STL
This definately sucks. Good thing is it is repeatable. The ski will start everytime after I unplug and replug in the fuse in the E-box.

Once the SXR gurus wake up I'm sure someone can figure this out.
 

Scorn800

Ride for life
Location
North NJ
Open the electric box up and make sure everthing is tight. Also check the solenoid posts. they unscrew from the solenoid somethings. Also might want to pull the stator cover and check the pick up coil (blue & green wires)
Does the JSS coil have msd plug caps?
 

WET BOX

STL Crew
Location
STL
Everything looks very nice in the electrical box. I removed the relay or solenoid to check the wires and the connections seemed good. I will check behind the stator cover today.

The JSS wires have the msd boots.

I just don't get why unplugging the fused wire makes it fire up again?
 

Scorn800

Ride for life
Location
North NJ
Everything looks very nice in the electrical box. I removed the relay or solenoid to check the wires and the connections seemed good. I will check behind the stator cover today.

The JSS wires have the msd boots.

I just don't get why unplugging the fused wire makes it fire up again?

It could be the msd plug boots. The 04 and up SXR's have a DC CDI just like a Advent. I know you can't use msd boots with a Advent not sure about oem cdi.
Do you have another coil with stock plug boots to try?
 

WET BOX

STL Crew
Location
STL
What about the boots is not compatable?

My stock coil has bad plug wires.

The stock boots and wire sucks.

Thanks Scorn
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
the Stock Boots are made by NGK. Believe the are resistor boots, not sure. Either way, they are much better than the MSD's. Also, if the connection gets bad, unscrew from the wire, snip the wire back, reattach the boot. simple fix.
 

WET BOX

STL Crew
Location
STL
the Stock Boots are made by NGK. Believe the are resistor boots, not sure. Either way, they are much better than the MSD's. Also, if the connection gets bad, unscrew from the wire, snip the wire back, reattach the boot. simple fix.

Not bashing at all, but how can a crappy srew that pushes onto some measly, brittle, strands of wire be better than msd snap on boot?


Thanks for the replies!
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Not bashing at all, but how can a crappy srew that pushes onto some measly, brittle, strands of wire be better than msd snap on boot?


Thanks for the replies!

for one thing, most people just fold the wire back and crimp them with the crimp part of the connector. This stresses the wire.

Also, Kawi has been using this setup since 90-91. The Yamaha boot is just a piece of metal that just pierces the wire through the insulation. That is crappy but it works until the wires start to break down. (about 3-5 years into its life).
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
I would be more inclinded to go along with Scorn on this one.

Do you still have the Overheat Sensor in there? They can go bad as well. (the one that connects to the pipe).
 

WET BOX

STL Crew
Location
STL
Yes, the sensor is still in the pipe. Would that cause the spark to be killed and then fire again after disconnection of the fuse?

It has to be something related to the disconnection of the fused circuit in the e-box.

Nothing seems to make sense :smashfreakB:
 

cmeripper26

Ripper26
Location
Connecticut
I run an 05' SXR and built the ignition from scratch running the Advent T3 and everything else OEM in the E-Box. I run the aftermarket NGK 90 degree boots. These work great on the SXR OEM plug wires they simply screw on there is no need to trim the insulation back at all. Try these, mayber your just getting a weak connection from the wire to the crimp.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Yes, the sensor is still in the pipe. Would that cause the spark to be killed and then fire again after disconnection of the fuse?

It has to be something related to the disconnection of the fused circuit in the e-box.

Nothing seems to make sense :smashfreakB:

If it thinks the pipe temps are to high it could put it in limp mode. unpluging the fuse may be resetting. Try disconnecting the sensor. (You do still have the stock pipe right)
 

WET BOX

STL Crew
Location
STL
Swapped in a new relay and cdi. Still the same problem. The only thing in the ebox that has not been changed is the smaller box with a heat sink built in on one side. What is this and would this be a possible problem?

Other than plug wires, the only other thing that has not been checked yet is the stator. I kind of doubt that would cause the symptoms I am experiencing though.

My last resort is to send the ebox to JSS and let John look it over.

Any more info from anyone is appreciated

Thanks peeps
 
Location
ANGOLA
crimp on plug boots / wires are junk if you ask me, get rid of your temp sencer, try also hook it up to flush kit run it in drive way so you can see if anything is getting hot warm, pipe, wires, anything you can`t see out on water
 

Scorn800

Ride for life
Location
North NJ
Do you have timing advance jumper? did you try plugging & unpluging it?
Also check the pipe sensor?
I try another OEM coil & plug boots before sending the box away.
 

WET BOX

STL Crew
Location
STL
Can I just disconnect the pipe sensor?

After my swim all testing was done with proper cooling on the driveway.

Anyone know what the other module with heat sink fins on it is?

I made my own timing advance plug. I can try disconnecting it but I doubt it will make a difference.

I may try the stock coil and wires if I can track one down. My stock wires are not usable anymore.

Thanks again everyone,
 

cmeripper26

Ripper26
Location
Connecticut
That module with the heat fins on it in the stock e-box is the regulator/rectifier. With your symptoms i'm thinking its the coil wires. Sometimes damage to the insulation can cause the coil wires to fire intermittenly or not at all. Try a stock coil and make sure the boot makes a good contact with the coil wires.
 
Top Bottom