Lamey pricing-Hidden Costs??????????

So if you just want to add a pv or nonpv lamey cylinder to ur current setup what is needed that isnt mentioned??????:cool2:

pistons
resleeve
crank portin......:cat40:
 

Jr.

Standing Tall
Staff member
Site Supporter
Location
Hot-Lanta
You didn't mention if it was stroked or not??

Porting
PV parts (if PV)
Pipe mods (if PV)
case boring
Case porting & Matching
special pistons
Special domes

Time to assmble it correctly. This means setting the squish clearance,
I have found inconsistancies in overall cyl heights.

These are not simple motors........ A lot of time is neded to do it correctly
My suggestion is to keep your motor as a backup & build this as a primary.
 

SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
Yes, Lamey cylinder motors are a lot of work as they weren't meant to be a freestyle cylinder. Just as Paul said...build your complete motor around the cylinder package. If not, you would be a lot better off with just my Big Bore freestyle 61X cylinder package that is mostly a bolt on set-up. (just need to machine cases for sleeves)
 

Don 79 TA

Still Fat....
i agree to what Paul and Chucky have said
plus don't forget when you playing with strokers, Maintenance is the key
you will want to do tear downs for inspections periodically.
don't forget you'll also want to spend some time testing/trying various pitch props out with the new found power
 
Thanx guys! Ive bn upgradong slowly but I want the end result to b a lamey)pv or nonpv havnt decided yet) 5mm or 8mm or 10mm stroker which to do demos and compete with.... Thus a ski capable of doin flip combos on flatwater.... Im still on a stock topdeck and hull but what would be better to upgrade firstly a killer motor or a complete lightweight hull.......?

Exile
 
Always respect 4 Supertune and JR....!!

My current setup follows:
engine
760cc 84.5mm bore
stock stroke crank
stock mild ported cylinder
amp manifold carbs
dual 48 pb carbs
blowsion head 190psi
factory bpipe limited chamber
boyesen reeds

Pump
stock
amp impeller
amp intake
stock dcut plate
trim nozzle
wamiltons freestyle cone
85mm nozzle bore

body
xft all except topdeck and hull........
 
^^^^^^oh and dont 4get the msd total loss(nifty puller!)

So after 3 posts il make it short does just adding a lamey to a current setup give you a real gain(better than losin 20+ pounds on a hull) that is my scenario.

Exile.
 
^^^^^^oh and dont 4get the msd total loss(nifty puller!)

So after 3 posts il make it short does just adding a lamey to a current setup give you a real gain(better than losin 20+ pounds on a hull) that is my scenario.

Exile.

i am no rocket scientist but i would assume it would be easier to go p/v vs. getting a lightweight hull. cheaper and probably a lil more reliable
 
like i said, i am know rocket scientist but i would be more worried about cracking the hull vs. grenading the motor.... crack the hull risk loosing everything, grenade the motor and only loose the motor
 
Well weve got an r&d cylinder here non pv (is it close 2 a lamey?) otherwise il hav 2 wait and import one......mayb produce a few..haha

Ja,as allways the q? weight vs power..... so how much weight can one lose in a hull max? id rather build a loud no waterbox motor!BBrrAAaAAppPP.....:>
 

Don 79 TA

Still Fat....
do you know the stats of it?
big bore?
stock stroke?
etc?

yeah its alot easier to swap a cylinder then a hull
either side of it has a + and - to it

what i like about the lamey cyl's are the wall designs (windows)
seems like they can breathe well
 

jacob06

relapsing parts whore
Location
atlanta
do the motor before the hull.having the hull and not having a bada55 motor is like buying a mustang with a 6 cylinder.looks like you already got alot of nice stuff on the hull you got.if your looking to avoid hidden costs, buy an entire motor thats already put together and KNOWN to run GOOD.that way you get to keep your old motor for a spare.search scottiemac, he might still have a couple of them.
 
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