I have read tons of posts on decal removal, and I am going to purchase the decal removal wheel (3M) today at a local store. I just want to be sure that this thing works (when used properly) WITHOUT removing any paint. I have a black '04 SJ and just want the all black look. So, this wheel will work without screwing up my black paint as long as I don't push too hard or spin it too fast? Sorry for yet another decal removal thread...just sounds like it would possibly mess up black paint.
Just to be 100% sure...decal removal
- Thread starter SIDEWAYZ
- Start date
use a VERY LOW rpm and keep the wheel moving. do not stay in one spot for any length of time.
basically, dont let the wheel get too hot.
the hull shouldnt be a problem. ive seen cheezy paint on yami hoods though.... the blue ones, anyway.
basically, dont let the wheel get too hot.
the hull shouldnt be a problem. ive seen cheezy paint on yami hoods though.... the blue ones, anyway.
2006superjet
just one more part....
- Location
- costa mesa ca
yes the 3m wheel is the best thing ever!!! i sold mine to a guy on here after i did my ski.
it eats up the stickers keep it cool dont use any water or wd 40 just go slow with the wheel i used a chepo black and decker at slow speeds.
it eats up the stickers keep it cool dont use any water or wd 40 just go slow with the wheel i used a chepo black and decker at slow speeds.
cmeripper26
Ripper26
- Location
- Connecticut
If you have experience doin decal removal u can use a heat gun and a straight edge razor blade. The goal is to get the decal fairly hot even if your using a hair dryer then lift a corner edge and as u lift the corner up move the heat gun to the spot ur lifting on the front of the decal and continue to work your way down. This way is tedious but works well if you have the patience and a steady hand.
yamaslut
kill it
- Location
- Daytona Beach, Florida
very experienced... you will dig the paint up bad unless you are really proficient w/ a blade, especially when using heat... that paint will get very soft
- Location
- Reno,NV
heat gun...never had any problems unless the ski was 100 years old and sticker too
SXIPro
JM781 Big Bore
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
Heat gun is fine for the hull, on the hood, not so much. Use a low setting and be very very careful.
redrrocket
Graphics Guru
- Location
- hamburg, ny
HEAT GUN over razor blade or a wheel. Wheels only work if you plan on repainting.
Use a heat gun warm the background up so its warm not hot to the touch.
<-- sign guy. be patient and pick the corners when warm with your fingernail or a lil chizler
razor blade is asking for gouges on a plastic ski.
Use a heat gun warm the background up so its warm not hot to the touch.
<-- sign guy. be patient and pick the corners when warm with your fingernail or a lil chizler
razor blade is asking for gouges on a plastic ski.
yamaslut
kill it
- Location
- Daytona Beach, Florida
HEAT GUN over razor blade or a wheel. Wheels only work if you plan on repainting.
Use a heat gun warm the background up so its warm not hot to the touch.
<-- sign guy. be patient and pick the corners when warm with your fingernail or a lil chizler
razor blade is asking for gouges on a plastic ski.
I have a couple of those and they work great... I did sign work for a while.
Send To Phone
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
not entirely true............ i used the wheel on my blue RN and kicked my self for even wasting my time with a razorblade and heat gun on the other side.........
didnt wreck my paint.
Last edited:
cmeripper26
Ripper26
- Location
- Connecticut
Its all in experience with decal work and a steady hand. Also it depends on whether your dealing with a paint or gel coat. Gel cooat can take a lot more heat and damage than certain paints. If it's a urethane based paint / clear coat you won't disrupt the the clear or paint to much as long as you don't dig the razor into the paint instead of the bottom of the lip of the decal.