Is this pump useable?

[beachedflunkey]

There is a slight nick in one of the veins or whatever they're called. Also the oil seal cover is off. The shaft does spin like what seems to be normal and I can't shake it back and forth.

 

[Mile9c1]

The oil seal is still on there, just fine. That washer just sits between the impeller and oil seal, probably to help keep water out of the seal area.

That pump looks like ******** but it should work okay if the bearings are smooth.

 

[Fathom]

Looks like another rusty B1 pump. Seeing a lot of them lately.

 

[beachedflunkey]

Looks like another rusty B1 pump. Seeing a lot of them lately.

That came off the 90. But at least my impeller came off with the pvc extension wrench oke:

 

[Speedfreak]

Blueprint the pump and have that one spot welded up and you will be back in business

 

[beachedflunkey]

Thanks for the responses. I was hoping to just clean up the nick when I blueprint. I can't imagine it causing a noticeable loss in a limited setup, do you?

 

[Speedfreak]

I would get it welded up. Anything that causes a interuption in flow is a potential problem. Run it by a shop that does welding and have them weld it up ... Might take 10 minutes and I can't see it taking $20 expecially if your going to bo the cleanup and blueprint the pump. So you can grind it down smooth it and blueprint at the same time.

 

[meatball]

My sitdowns pump looks even worse then that and runs fine. It would run better if it was nice and smooth, but I'm too lazy to put the time and money into it. Since its out, I would smooth it down and blueprint the manufacturer places (not welding), but unless its going into a nice ski, I wouldnt bother putting money into it.

 

[ANT]

you could fix it but try to find a different one online that doesnt have a chip and that doesnt have that stock big old school syphon bilge opening on it. You can definetly notice the difference if there is one there or not, especially if you have daul cooling. Even if you decide to go daul cooling, that old pump doesnt have a boss on the other side of the pump so you can drill and tap through; if you just drill through the stator for daul cooling its only going to have maybe 3/16" worth of metal holding in the brass fitting.

 

[meatball]

Not to sound stupid, but I though the syphon bilge opening was on the exit nozzle?

 

[Idok]

run that ********

 

[beachedflunkey]

Not to sound stupid, but I though the syphon bilge opening was on the exit nozzle?

Yep. But not on the older ones. I haven't found a newer pump for less than a $100. I'm sure I'll figure out a way to close this one up but any suggestions? I have a newer exit nozzle off which I'll run a stock siphon. This boat won't need dual cooling any time soon.

 

[beachedflunkey]

run that ********

I'll have to think twice if this looks like something you'd run :afro:

 

[meatball]

You could just JB weld it up. But I agree, I would run it as long as its not a built boat. If you really wanted to run dual cooling, I would JB weld a piece of scrap stainless onto where you'd tap for it to give you some more threads, as there shouldnt be enough stress on it to break the JB weld. My sitdowns has deep pitting all over (previous owner kept the back end in the water for a summer season, and sold it CHEAP) and it works fine.

 

[Idok]

I'll have to think twice if this looks like something you'd run :afro:

:lightning: :noevil:

 

[sjetrider]

I have run worse, without issue.