I know I should be happy that my foam is dry...

[SJBrit]

...but I'm just not.

There are a couple of wet spots where I had cracks, but really it's amazingly dry. After all the work to strip the ski, pull of the turf, grind off the glue and hack out the tray, you kind of secretly hope it's going to be a sopping wet mess in there to make it all worthwhile.

I guess I'm pretty pleased - I appear to have an amazingly watertight Superjet.

 

[tor*p*do]

dont worry . . .


it will start leaking and get waterlogged
as soon as you get it back together :bigok:

 

[X2guy]

Take the foam out and put in drains...

 

[sqwidget]

is there any way to tell if you have wet foam is its all toghether? without weighing it or anything.

 

[SJBrit]

is there any way to tell if you have wet foam is its all toghether? without weighing it or anything.

You basically look on the outside of the ski. If it says Superjet anywhere then it's almost certainly wet

 

[Dirtybird]

I drilled to small holes in the back like you see here on my 750 and water dripped out for 2 months. Ha Ha

 

[sqwidget]

so maybe i could drill holes like that, maybe even smaller, then fill it back in with epoxy or something?

 

[Dirtybird]

4 sure that would work and not really noticeable, it's under water most of the time any way.

 

[superjetkev]

i did the same, and left the ski standing agianst a wall. water dripped out for weeks.

 

[sqwidget]

i just dont really wanna tear mine all up. i just did footholds last year and the top foam was dry so im just kinda being optomistic and thinking that its dry all the way through

 

[Tkmww]

I just got done refoaming mine a few months back. The cooling tubes rusted out so that seems to be where the water was coming in. It looks like the top and bottom deck at the eye let hole in the tray delaminated. The steering cable hole wasn't sealed, so we 5200 the heck out of it. We didn't 5200 the firewall which I will do next time the engine is out. We put in polystyren which doesn't absorb water, but I don't think we packed it in tight enough because any void will allow water to take up residence. I also have drains plugs in it and two little drill holes with screws put in. The ski felt great the first time I took it out...then the water came back. I think the first time i drained the water it was about 15 lbs. So needless to say I think it is just better to put more HP in the ski to make up for the weight...hahaha. It sucks because that is a pain in the azz job to get all the foam out, replace the tubes, stuff with foam, glass it, turf it, etc. Just to have it spit water out after the first ride...oh well. But on the plus side we did reinforce the ski (with 1708 and carbon...looks pimp), put in a bow eye for towing after a backflip lawn dart, one way valve (awesome...barely have to use my bilge anymore). I hope this was helpful. Everyone I know wether they have a rickter, SJ, kawi, gets water in their tray. So save yourself the time and just get more horsepower or a lighter ski.

T

 

[SuperJETT]

My old 550 had a great little 'feature' I called it. Where the hood strap cover was riveted on to the dash, when you were at WOT water would spray out of the rivets. So, obviously the entire foam area was full of water thanks to the water line being cracked somewhere.

 

[SJBrit]

Haha! Yes, rivets are a good spot to leak. You need to fill the center with 5200 once you have riveted anything to the hull (like exhaust outlet, hull ID plate) - otherwise they are just little holes through your hull. I think you can also buy sealed rivets, but it's simple just to fill them.

 

[the WaTeRhAwK]

take the foam out and put in drains and innertubes with valve stems and pressure gauges.

 

[Pwgsx]

or waterbottles and drains