hydrolocking

Ericfox

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
Location
Akron area --> OHIO!
So I figured I would start a thread for everyones benefit and because I didnt know the answer myself...

Hydrolocking is when you suck in enough water that the engine cannot turn over because the piston cant compress water because water cannot be compressed.

Can DEEP stabs result in that much water getting in if you have a pretty good hood seal?

How do you know that you have hydrolock? If you injest that much water do you know it because you will not be able to turn over the engine? Will the starter just click? or what?

I would do the normal crank with the plugs off etc. if I sunk my ski... but it can prob. happen from stabs, subs, and fountains as well... so I wanna know what to look for....

Heard of a few guys getting hydrolocked at Rock N' Ride, so it got me thinking about getting edumicated....

Bending rods is bad m'kay??? I would like to avoid it someday if I could... thanks guys...
 
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tor*p*do

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
hydolock = click when you hit the starter
motor wont turn over- keep trying and you may bend a rod!
pull the plugs and make a fountain!
big stabs, etc. can let in enough water to hydrolock
 
ski4

ski4

gonzo
Location
cleveland
Ericfox said:
So I figured I would start a thread for everyones benefit and because I didnt know the answer myself...

Hydrolocking is when you suck in enough water that the engine cannot turn over because the piston cant compress water because water cannot be compressed.

Can DEEP stabs result in that much water getting in if you have a pretty good hood seal?

How do you know that you have hydrolock? If you injest that much water do you know it because you will not be able to turn over the engine? Will the starter just click? or what?

I would do the normal crank with the plugs off etc. if I sunk my ski... but it can prob. happen from stabs, subs, and fountains as well... so I wanna know what to look for....

Heard of a few guys getting hydrolocked at Rock N' Ride, so it got me thinking about getting edumicated....

Bending rods is bad m'kay??? I would like to avoid it someday if I could... thanks guys...
Click to expand...

yeah it just won't turn over
then the fun of lot's of wd 40 and plugs on and off begins
till you can get her to fire up and run burn the water out.

the situations where guys bends rods evades me though . never had that happen
im not sure how that happens
perhaps the piston is between tdc and bdc and develops enough momentum to hit the wall and tweak the rod.
i guess there is no way to really know that is about to happen till you get broken parts.

and you can have this anytime you get water into the motor .
be it via a sub , or a hood off accident or rolling your ski the wrong way and getting a back up of water from the pipe to the motor.
 
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Ericfox

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
Location
Akron area --> OHIO!
I carry some fogging oil in my vehicle... wd40 better?

I have done deep stabs where I come back up and the motor struggles for a few seconds... is this pretty close to hydrolock? As long as the motor stays running and you can flush out the water you will not hydrolock? It will actually stall out and not start again = hydrolock then...
 
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ski4

ski4

gonzo
Location
cleveland
Ericfox said:
I carry some fogging oil in my vehicle... wd40 better?

I have done deep stabs where I come back up and the motor struggles for a few seconds... is this pretty close to hydrolock? As long as the motor stays running and you can flush out the water you will not hydrolock? It will actually stall out and not start again = hydrolock then...
Click to expand...

fogging oil is better actually i just don't have it at home usually

\if you can stay running
then keep her going. and yeah , stock air box
 
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Ericfox

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
Location
Akron area --> OHIO!
yeah I kept my stock air box just for this reason... I kept the rubber piece at the end pointed straight down... figured it just made sense to keep it in that direction...
 
ski4

ski4

gonzo
Location
cleveland
Ericfox said:
yeah I kept my stock air box just for this reason... I kept the rubber piece at the end pointed straight down... figured it just made sense to keep it in that direction...
Click to expand...


you are in good shape then man
see ya out on the lake next time your around
 
Mark44

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
We usually hold the ski upside down and let the water run out then hit the starter and pump it out with the ski upside down. Katie and I both filled ours with water last years at the exact same time.

Mark44
 
keefer

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
I think the bent rod scenario happens mostly when one cyl fires and the other has the magic amount of water, the momentum of the crank causes the bent rod in the wet cyl.
 
SUPERJET-113

SUPERJET-113

GASKETS FOR CHAMP BRAP!
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
I just tip the ski over and dump out the water first like Mark said or you will be seeing old faithful for a long, long time. Also a set of plugs with the electrodes cut off are very handy and will fire no matter what and not foul. It will run like shait, but will get it running right away. Also lots of times the water may be out of the motor and its still running like total crap for quite a bit after that, its because you have water in the diaphrams of the carbs and it takes awhile to get it out. Also dont rule out water in your fuel tank too..
I have a couple good cranks from past years with bent con rods that needs rod kits installed.
 
redrrocket

redrrocket

Graphics Guru
Location
hamburg, ny
used to do the summer snowmobile water skip and filled many a two stroke with water.

our old polaris sled motors had 9mm bolts in the case that worked wonders for draining water.
 
Ericfox

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
Location
Akron area --> OHIO!
SUPERJET-113 said:
I just tip the ski over and dump out the water first like Mark said or you will be seeing old faithful for a long, long time. Also a set of plugs with the electrodes cut off are very handy and will fire no matter what and not foul. It will run like shait, but will get it running right away. Also lots of times the water may be out of the motor and its still running like total crap for quite a bit after that, its because you have water in the diaphrams of the carbs and it takes awhile to get it out. Also dont rule out water in your fuel tank too..
I have a couple good cranks from past years with bent con rods that needs rod kits installed.
Click to expand...

Never thought of cutting electrodes off... why does this work better?
 
SUPERJET-113

SUPERJET-113

GASKETS FOR CHAMP BRAP!
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
I learned this trick from Bill Oneil back in the rec.sport.jetski newsgroups day. He owns a Performance shop and is has his own forum over at PWCT. He also answers tons of threads in the Seadoo forum too.
They just continue to fire and will not foul out due to water or too much fuel/oil on them. I dont know the scientific reasons...lol
 
ski4

ski4

gonzo
Location
cleveland
SUPERJET-113 said:
I learned this trick from Bill Oneil back in the rec.sport.jetski newsgroups day. He owns a Performance shop and is has his own forum over at PWCT. He also answers tons of threads in the Seadoo forum too.
They just continue to fire and will not foul out due to water or too much fuel/oil on them. I dont know the scientific reasons...lol
Click to expand...


hmmmm
i wonder if the water bridging the gap plays a role here ?
that is definately intresting
 
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