Freestyle How to build ultimate square nose-sub-fountain-hood mod

[orangefinger]

Quick build instructions for everyone who has inquired in the past... and for everyone like me who is missing doing "Ole scoo tricks" having that dam BOB..;0)

Again these are just my recommendations after building numerous Squares and utilizing ideas from other members here i have found these specific techniques to best and ensure long subs and hood rides as well as ongoing fountains without stalling/flooding the engine bay.

"opinions will differ "

The build will be kept down to bare info and I will cut some corners which some of the new peeps on the board might want to follow up with additional questions, furthermore this is a budget build.

- SCUPPER
- DUAL RULE 500 BILGE & PLACEMENT OF BILGE OUTLET
- DUAL COOLING
- CUSTOM ALUMINUM PLATE FOR BILGE & OEM BILGE
- HOOD MOD & HANDHOLDS
- HOOD STRAP & HOOD SEAL

 

[orangefinger]

-with an extended drill you drill a second cooling line >> stick another rod into existing cooling line drill parallel
-Home depot 2" white pvc line, some glue, end cap with thread, and screw on end cap >> this will allow to screw the cap on and close the scupper off
- I choose to ramp the scupper to make it easier for water to leave the engine bay, place scupper as far down as possible

- AT this point nothing has been sealed with 5200 yet !!

 

[orangefinger]

- "quick" fabrication of aluminum plate that will allow for oem bilge and dual 500's or what ever you wish to have >> i preferr not to glue the bilges down thus they come loose

- Hood mod, most fun ever....
>Remove old liner completely...
>Close front Holes
>Close top Holes
>Install Handholds of your choice ( these are 750 SX buckets that can be molded to fit by grinding and heating and bending them )
>Install Liner ( used 17 & 12 )
>Drill Hole in bottom of hood corners
>Grind inner corners out of Hood
>The Additional Hood air intakes are from Westmarine ( $ 3 ) each, they will have the cut down
>The breather tube is from Homedepot ( spa equipment )
>Drill Holes ( pic 4 ) for bilge outlets , make sure to not be to close to rubber seal ( the bulk inside underneath will not allow you to put the nut on ).

The last pictures shows placement of your Bilge 45 Degree highest point to outside of tray

 

[orangefinger]

More Hood Mod pics

- The Liner is ONLY GLUED in with Adhesive, this will allow to be cut out at later time in case of any repair or access needed and will provide flexibility when hood is stressed
- Hand holds buckets or self made ones should be glued in and also attached to center for additional support

 

[orangefinger]

Finalization ( no pics yet )

* if your OEM hood seal is not 100% ok it will not seal !! Use new aftermarket hood seal if neccessary
* IMPORTANT all Hoods are different in lenght and size....go figure ?? preferrably modify the Hood that came with your ski
* Install Scupper of choice in rear
* Install Bilges make sure the actual bilge does not rub on coupler/drive shaft
* Install Bilge Switch and wiring
* Install Hood strap

 

[orangefinger]

That's it .....if everything is done accuratly you should enjoy your extended stay under water ( sub's ) and riding that hood and spraying people for a very long time.... ;0) .

Feel free to post improvements, comments, feedback....

 

[mthomps]

Thank you so much for posting these instructions! I am just now getting my feet wet with glass...trying to get my sn wave ready. Could I ask you two questions?

How exactly did you go about making the new liner?

Also, I see you made 4 holes in the back of the hood, 2 under each corner flange, which you said you then ground down. And in between those there are 2 more, for those you covered with 2 vent covers you said you got from west marine.. What is the reason for having 4 vent holes in the back instead of 2? All four are inside the new liner correct?

 

[jetpilot808]

Good write up, "C"!

 

[orangefinger]

-New Liner template with cartboard ( free USPS shipping boxes these fold easy and are not to thick ) and duct tape ( leave a lip at the ends )
Lay one sheet liner 12 OZ let it dry and then remove cart board and duct tape , grind down and sand place the now fully dryed 12OZ glass in Hood and lay 17 OZ on top )
-The 2 Holes in corner flange inside are for water to drain out, the hood is ground down on corners to allow for 45 degree bilge fittings to be placed.
-The 2 large vents are actualy for air to come in ( replacing top hood oem and front vents ).

>> OEM Bilge Braket modified see pic 3 , this will move oem bilge closer to bulk head which allows for enough distance of bilges to driveshaft and coupler ( bend little metal straight , cut of U shaped and and bend over.
>> The Bilge sockets then are attached with rivets to custom plate

 

[mthomps]

I'd thank you twice if I could man. How much space do you leave inside the liner?

 

[orangefinger]

More pics updated for bilge set up

The liner can be made 2 ways, I had the liner sit flush to inside hump and then up to lip of Hood ( where latch is ) this means each channel is run seperatly and just allows air and water to be combined at the end. You can also raise the liner to have it sit higher than inner pole hump but you might run into problems utilizing certain aftermarket pipes, it will alow for more airflow and combined chambers.

Today will be 5200 DAY ( currently at homedepot for $ 8.97 that is almost 50% cheaper than westmarine or wallmart )

 

[NVJAY775]

Orangefinger's ski builds are super tidy and solid. Great guy and rider. He's helped me so much over the past few years, to get me and my skis where they are.

This hood mod is absolutely amazing. You literally can do fountains as long as you want the way it's vented. Great post!