Hot "b" pipe

[WaveDemon]

Hey guys, I had to put a diff head pipe on my b pipe set up yesterday (the old one was traded for parts). The old set-up ran fine. the new set up sizzled real bad real fast. After the problems started, I routed a cooling line directly to the head pipe to get cooler water in there. that didn't work. I pulled the head pipe and hooked it up to a garden hose and was able to see the bleeder holes didn't flow even though the adjuster was open. I was able to clean it out and get it to flow again but I still had the problem. I added a little restriction (stainless nut) between the head pipe and stinger to try and raise the pressure in the head pipe. The chamber is cooler but still sizzles near the coupler. Only the top screw is adjustible and the bottom one dribbles a little. any suggestions? maybe more restriction in the stinger line?

 

[SuperJETT]

My gut feeling is you're running lean so the exhaust is just that hot.

This would be my setup:
2 cooling lines, 1 for engine only, 1 for pipe only

For the pipe circuit, in bottom of headpipe, out top, top adjuster open 2 turns (to start), restrictor in cooling line coming out of headpipe, then to a tee with the straight through fitting to a pisser and the tee'd line to the stinger (unless you're running a Jetworks valve).

That setup will work just about everytime and give you great pressure in the headpipe and 2 turns on the top adjuster is a lot of water so you'll have to back it off from there.

 

[WaveDemon]

thanks jett, My only difference from your suggestions is the direction of the water flow in the head pipe, I'll try that and adjust the carbs.

 

[SuperJETT]

There are 3 reasons to run the cooling from bottom to top, 1 is the coupler end stays colder since that's where the water starts. 2 is any sand/etc that gets in there is going to be pushed upward and hopefully the pipe stays cleaner. 3 is the headpipe will drain out the waterlines instead of into the exhaust stream when shut off.

At least that's my thinking thanks to freestylegeek.

thanks jett, My only difference from your suggestions is the direction of the water flow in the head pipe, I'll try that and adjust the carbs.

 

[freestylegeek]

There are 3 reasons to run the cooling from bottom to top, 1 is the coupler end stays colder since that's where the water starts. 2 is any sand/etc that gets in there is going to be pushed upward and hopefully the pipe stays cleaner. 3 is the headpipe will drain out the waterlines instead of into the exhaust stream when shut off.

At least that's my thinking thanks to freestylegeek.

JETT's right, and there's annother reason to run it that way too.
It is set-up as a cross-flow heat exchanger.
That is the most effective style of heat exchanger.

Also, when you were feeding your pipe from the top, the cooling chamber may not have been able to fill up completely with water - thereby adding to your sizzle problem.

 

[SuperJETT]

Also, when you were feeding your pipe from the top, the cooling chamber may not have been able to fill up completely with water - thereby adding to your sizzle problem.

Yes, that too. Can you tell geek/I talk about this stuff a lot? Freaking engineer brains.

 

[freestylegeek]

Yes, that too. Can you tell geek/I talk about this stuff a lot? Freaking engineer brains.

Is that what we talk about?
I thought we were talking about your grandmother's secret recipie for her brownies?