help, dont want to strip carb screws

[Zeon]

so heres my issue. on my 2003 superjet i am tryin to take apart the stock carbs to check for a blockage/ foreign object in the fuel intake area/diaphram area. the 4 screws that need to come out... i have 1 of the 4 per carb . the other ones .. ahh just seem to be in there and i REALLY REALLY dont want to strip them out. any advice to getting these out?

 

[kawirider00]

impact driver or vise grips

 

[Matt_E]

Use a screwdriver that fits into the head very closely.
Then hit the screwdriver with a hammer once or twice (hard!).
This breaks loose any corrosion, frees the threads, and really embeds the screwdriver tip into the head.
Screws should come right out after that. Works every time for me.

 

[njfl]

Be careful before you take the advice given in these posts. First, you have to be a little more clear. I think Matt is referring to using impact on the metering block (brass block underneath diaphragm cover).

I think you may be refering to the 4 screws on the diaphragm cover though (because you stated 4 per carb). If it is these four cover screws, then the best bet is to use a vise grip.

 

[Gainera2582]

Use the right bit with an impact and you won't strip it.

 

[Zeon]

yes the cover on the rear of the carbs (facing engine) square cover not roundish triangular cover

 

[Matt_E]

I think Matt is referring to using impact on the metering block (brass block underneath diaphragm cover).

Yes! :biggthumpup:

Also the needle & seat screw.

 

[njfl]

yes the cover on the rear of the carbs (facing engine) square cover not roundish triangular cover

Ah, the one with the inlet lines built into it. I think they have raised rounded heads. Use vise grips on them at first. Too much banging can break the casting. Use that only as a last resort. when you get that out, there will be a little filter in there. Check that for your main source of blockage.

The other area to look is where Matt is referring to, after removing the thin stamped diamond diaphragm cover plate, you will see the metering block and needle and seat.

 

[Ollie Rastabean]

Get the right bit and mount it in either a drill press or mill. DONT TURN THE DRILL PRESS OR MILL ON. Just use it to apply strong downward pressure on the screw. Use hand pressure to back the screw out.

Flathead will also work better than phillips.

 

[hermanns]

I never had any trouble just using the right size phillips and then pushing really hard into the screw to keep it from stripping, worked perfect for me on both carbs, the screws were really tight, but once the broke loose it was no problem, just push hard to keep from stripping

 

[Proformance1]

Don't screw them up Andy, no punn intended, if you can't get them off bring them down and we will help ya!

 

[fLat TiRe]

I just use my cordless dewalt with the speed turned down....with the right bit, they come right out everytime.

Just go slow and they will pop.

 

[WaHoo_1]

Use a screwdriver that fits into the head very closely.
Then hit the screwdriver with a hammer once or twice (hard!).
This breaks loose any corrosion, frees the threads, and really embeds the screwdriver tip into the head.
Screws should come right out after that. Works every time for me.

Big Kahuna helped me do this at Lanier couple of years ago as well when I was really up shizz creek. Although we had to turn and hammer simultaniously (Thanks again BK!):fing02:

 

[RideItLikeYouStoleIt]

Just use the right screwdriver size and push hard. If that is starting to seem like ti isnt working try something else befroe you wreck them. Turning it once and stripping at all is going to make it 10x harder. I had more trouble with the smaller screws inside the carb under the diaphragm.

 

[kurtwolff]

I also use a cordless 18V Dewalt with a long shaft, wide flat head bit that fits right in, and put the carb in a vise. Then I push very hard on the drill on low torque setting, and give it all its got. Never failed me, I have done probably 12 nasty saltwater SBN carbs that way. Good luck, the internal screws are usually much worse BTW!

 

[WaveDemon]

Big Kahuna helped me do this at Lanier couple of years ago as well when I was really up shizz creek. Although we had to turn and hammer simultaniously (Thanks again BK!):fing02:

you must have been drunk. that was me and ollie. we we're in bk's campground though.:biggthumpup:

 

[tom21]

:smashfreakB::haha::beerchug::no:

 

[SuperJETT]

If you do mess them up, buy replacement screws from mcmaster, but get the oval head philips screws. There is more meat to grab onto, and they are stainless.

90258A221
18-8SS Metric Oval Head Phillip Machine Screw M4 Size, 16mm Length, .7mm PitchIn stock at $8.60 per PackThis product is sold in Packs of 100

And for the needle/seat/lever arm screws:
90258A178
18-8SS Metric Oval Head Phillip Machine Screw M3 Size, 8mm Length, .5mm PitchIn stock at $4.17 per PackThis product is sold in Packs of 100

Yes you get 100 of each, so you can do 50 individual carbs for $13. Not bad. You can have them in less than 2 days with normal shipping.

 

[Mike W]

I use a big flat tip screw driver for the tough ones. Better leverage than a smaller phillips...

 

[WaveDemon]

was that the year i was there?

i think i remember that... i went by your site and saw reed's ski in 1000 pieces while you and ollie were putting it back together

those screws can be a beeoch!

yep, later that night we were jumping for the top of one house boat to the other. completly sober of course. :woot: