Got a bum motor from SJK

beachedflunkey

wavejunkies
Location
Virginia Beach
Motor was quoted as freshly rebuilt and ready to drop in but is far from it. Pm-ed him on the 1st to try and see if he'd like to make good (I don't know, meet me at least halfway on obviously needed repairs or something). He's been active online but I haven't heard anything from him. Not trying to stir the pot, just buyer beware. Here's the thread and here's the pm:

beachjunkey said:
How was this motor running and ready to bolt in? I have been fighting one thing after another for two weeks since I finally dropped it in a ski. Stripped oil plate mount hole on flywheel cover, ebox was not wired correctly and looked like there was a fire on the solenoid, broken bendix, bent throttle cable bracket, stripped flywheel cover bolt hole on case, dirty carb (hairball in fuel pump). Finally get it running but it runs very hot and doesn't pull for crap. I didn't have a gauge available until today and I am getting 135lbs in both cylinders. I'll open up the motor later this week but I'd like to see if you'd be willing to make good on this somehow. I'll let you know how the top end looks...
mark

To clarify on the bad ebox wiring, the white/red wire off stator was not connected. The white/red wire off the cdi was jumped I think to the solenoid. There was no fuse holder. There was no pigtail off the positive from battery. Even with a new solenoid it would not start without jumping the solenoid until I put in a new battery cable, cdi, and fuse. 11/12 or 13/14 or whatever of the ebox screws were stripped, each ground screw inside was stripped, ebox was dusted with sand/salt but yeah I guess cleanliness and stripped screws has no bearing on "ready to bolt in".

I have not yet inspected the compression problem but I'm also thinking the coil might be bad based on how horrible it runs :dunno:. I swapped the CDI out with a known good immediately because of the spliced connections. I also swapped out the stator with a known good because it was physically damaged although I'm willing to accept I could've done that when removing the flywheel to replace the bendix and inspect timing.
 

beachedflunkey

wavejunkies
Location
Virginia Beach
Yeah I'm still working on this thing. .025 ring gap so I'll definitely need new rings. Jugs and pistons are kinda scored, gonna have them looked at and see if I need a bore or a hone. No real base gasket. I'm still curious how this thing only had 10-15hrs since last rebuild and came from a running motor.

I have not pulled the head but I guess I need to make sure it has a real gasket. Then do a leakdown test when it all goes back together. I replaced the coil too. :skull2:

 
Y

yamaslut

Guest
Yeah I'm still working on this thing. .025 ring gap so I'll definitely need new rings. Jugs and pistons are kinda scored, gonna have them looked at and see if I need a bore or a hone. No real base gasket. I'm still curious how this thing only had 10-15hrs since last rebuild and came from a running motor.

I have not pulled the head but I guess I need to make sure it has a real gasket. Then do a leakdown test when it all goes back together. I replaced the coil too. :skull2:


10 hours????? no way!!!!!!!!!

I would ask for a full refund from that dude... tell him he can have his junk back
 

Fathom

WaveJunkie PR
Location
Central Illinois
Dude, he obviously didn't use enough RTV!!! I think you need to send it back too but you've probably got too many hours already into it to make it worthwhile.
 
Location
va
10 hours????? no way!!!!!!!!!

I would ask for a full refund from that dude... tell him he can have his junk back

:arms: Agreed!

Or he owes you a set of pistons, rings and gaskets. Assuming the cylinders r ok! But IMHO you'll need to bore it, to get it right. Scratches aside those piston skirts look pretty worn for only 10 hours, somethings def not right there!
 
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