Girdled head questions, stock motor

[Shifty]

I just bought a Riva girdled head with 35cc domes and the guy I bought it from recomended I replace the base gasket once I break the jug to case bolts loose to install the hardware. Seems like this wont be necessary, what do you think? Also what if I remove and replace one bolt at a time, is there a chance I would warp the cases/ cylinder doing it this way? I plan on running the ski stock for a few months and then installing the head and a factory B pipe. If I get anxious and install the head without the pipe, what would need to be changed in terms of jetting, ect?


Thanks again,

Chris

 

[Ericfox]

I dont think any changes in jetting just for the head...

 

[Matt_E]

The gasket is compressible. Once torqued, it is compressed and will not come back up.
So if you loosen it, that seal is gone.
However - I would just tighten it back down, and a smidgen tighter than it was before.

 

[SUPERTUNE]

You should be ok w/base gasket, if you do them one at a time. I have done this lots of times and no problems as long as they're torqued before running the engine again.

 

[Shifty]

Good to hear, I fugure I can bust out the soapy water on the base and look for bubbles when I fire her up. Another question, you all agree no jetting is required with a simple head swap? What about fitment issues with this head and the stock exhaust... What about with a B-Pipe, is this head missing anything required for installation? Any clearance issues I should be aware of?


Thanks for the assistance

 

[Matt_E]

No issues.
The B-Pipe doesn't mount to the head.

 

[jetx]

If your planning on running just the head with the stock pipe be aware the stock bracket that mounts the pipe to the head will not bolt up to the girdled head...just do them both at the same time.

 

[Shifty]

Good deal, did you mean no problem even with the stock exhaust? Is this not a very sought after head I understand ADA seems to be the best hands down but I got this for $300 on PWC today brand new in original packaging with all girdle hardware but no orings. Do you know if the oring kits from riva cover all points of this thing or are there multiple kits for the domes, cap, etc.


Thanks

 

[SUPERTUNE]

1 kit from Riva will cover all of the o-rings needed for the complete head, just make sure you get the proper kit for your head as they're some different kits for different heads.

 

[Ericfox]

Good deal, did you mean no problem even with the stock exhaust? Is this not a very sought after head I understand ADA seems to be the best hands down but I got this for $300 on PWC today brand new in original packaging with all girdle hardware but no orings. Do you know if the oring kits from riva cover all points of this thing or are there multiple kits for the domes, cap, etc.


Thanks

A lot of people use the Riva head... its not that it is bad... it will get you the higher compression you want just like the ADA does...

I forgot about that bracket that the stock exhaust uses... good call jetx...

Make sure you get the right o-ring kit like Chuck said... you might be able to make your own o-rings- but I have never tried... I know some guys do it with material from McMaster Carr...

 

[Shifty]

Thanks for the insight, I will end up doing both the b-pipe and head at one time. I dont see the need to buy an additional bracket that will only be used for a month or so and also scratch up my shiny new head. I should have bought the pipe first but thought this looked like a good deal. My ski is in route from Florida and I will be taking off work to break it in. What are some good pointers you guys have? I know there are two trains of thought here but I dont need to read a bunch of theory, just the basics. Again this is just a stock '08 Superjet. I would think this will be coverd in the manual, i just want to make sure I have all the right things before I start. I know I will need a second set of plugs, speaking of which...where do I get the ones with the solid contact on top not the treaded aluminium/ stud type? Break in oil, what the deal with that, is it a good idea?

Sorry for the list, but I am nearing my first ride and need to get this right.


Thanks in advance,

 

[sflsurfrider]

you should ride it in its stock form first. that way youll further appreciate the added power of the pipe and higher compresion!

also, doesnt the '08 come with a chitty aluminum prop? if so, youre going to want to change that too.

 

[The Penguin]

I thought the 08's were coming with a decent stainless prop.

 

[Shifty]

I am going to run it stock for a month or so, until I can affort the b-pipe. The 08 comes with a large hub stainless, I have read its a great prop and of similar design to the solas or skat.

We will see, as I have yet to see an 08.

 

[Ericfox]

use yamalube 2-stroke oil for your breakin... then switch to synthetic... thats what I did at least... I think I pretty much followed yamaha's breakin recommendations... I think I premixed at 25:1 for the first two tanks if I remember right...

 

[Freakrider]

You should be ok w/base gasket, if you do them one at a time. I have done this lots of times and no problems as long as they're torqued before running the engine again.

how would you put in one stud at a time with the ADA head in the way...you could not use a stud installer tool and is there room for two jammed nuts with the head in the way ? what is the technique with one at a time to maintain pressure on base gasket ? thx....:question:

 

[Shifty]

I know some kits come with studs, but I believe this one and the ADA comes with bolts that have a tall threaded head to accept the head bolts.

 

[Freakrider]

CAN ANYONE ANSWER THIS ? has someone used a stud installer with the ADA head on to install one stud at a time to maintain base gasket pressure ?

 

[Freakrider]

I wonder how Supertune does the one stud at a time ?

 

[Ericfox]

couldnt you just leave the outer 4 bolts in and put the 2 inner studs in... then put the acorn nuts on them and torque down.... then put one stud in each opposite corner and then torque those acorn nuts and then one more stud in the other 2 opposite corners and torque those acorn nuts... then put on all the regular head bolts... then retorque all the bolts from center out to a higher ft lbs... as long as you dont disturb the base gasket it seems it should not matter... you could prob take out all the bolts at the base of the cylinder and put the studs in with some vise grips... just be really careful not to disturb the placement of the base gasket... then just put the head on like the instructions say that came with it....at least that makes sense to me....