Super Jet Footholds help

Bobert540

Site Supporter
Location
Rockford,MI
just rivet the bottom first. The holds will flex, then rivet the sides and top. Between the rivets and thickened epoxy they will sit in there fine. Then just follow up with glass, don't overthink it. You can do it!!
 
just rivet the bottom first. The holds will flex, then rivet the sides and top. Between the rivets and thickened epoxy they will sit in there fine. Then just follow up with glass, don't overthink it. You can do it!!
Sounds good. Toby said to just use 3/4" #8 ss screws and to leave them in, not rivets. Im going to put an order in at uscomposites does this cover everything?
8.7oz fiberglass cloth 3" width tapes (E-Glass) per yard DBM 1708 Knytex Biaxial 38" width per yard 635 thin epoxy resin system w/ 3:1 Ratio medium epoxy hardener (1/2 gallon) Aerosil-Cabosil thickening agent for epoxies (8oz appropriate for 5 Qt of resin) 2 part expanding Urethane foam 4 LB density (1 Cubic Foot) Pumps for use w/ 635 Epoxy resin system (3-1 ratio pumps - set of 2)
 
My order from US composites should come in today or tomorrow. Some progress pics..

When turfing the rails around the ski, you do remove the stock plastic trim piece and toss it right?
 

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Realized I live 15 minutes from USComposites so just picked this up..
Can anyone tell me if I should do the glass at the sametime as the epoxy/hardner or wait a day?
 

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Update. Holds are in. Ran into problem though. We put to much 2 part foam into one of the gunwales and it expanded under my tray pushing it up and it went out of other gunwale lol. I thought it was going to crack the ski but it didn't. It's surprisingly even as well but I'm wondering if I can leave it be or i need to tear into tray?? Need your guys' advice before I start glass work. Pic of pushed up tray in next post.
 

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smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
Site Supporter
Location
Granbury, TX
If it bothers you and you want to go through the effort of tearing up and reglassing your tray then fix it.

If it doesn't bother you, leave it. I'm pretty sure you won't have to worry about cracking your tray since it obviously can't flex down. You could even mess with your padding layers to visually level it out before you turf.
 
If it bothers you and you want to go through the effort of tearing up and reglassing your tray then fix it.

If it doesn't bother you, leave it. I'm pretty sure you won't have to worry about cracking your tray since it obviously can't flex down. You could even mess with your padding layers to visually level it out before you turf.
Yeah it doesnt bother me. Just grateful that it didnt crack the hull!
Note to self: Use 2 part foam sparingly!! lol
 

smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
Site Supporter
Location
Granbury, TX
Well that and you gotta plan your pour. I usually do two holes on the back of the gunwales and make my pour with the ski on its nose and the back of the hull on my workbench. The ski ends up at probably greater than 45 degrees. I Pour in the low hole and leave the top as a bleeder. In my experience with 2lb foam, a 6oz/6oz pour is plenty for one hold.
 
Well that and you gotta plan your pour. I usually do two holes on the back of the gunwales and make my pour with the ski on its nose and the back of the hull on my workbench. The ski ends up at probably greater than 45 degrees. I Pour in the low hole and leave the top as a bleeder. In my experience with 2lb foam, a 6oz/6oz pour is plenty for one hold.
Hmm thats a great idea! I'll use that method next time. I only needed to pour into 1 gunwale and it got across the other side and foamed out that gunwale. I used 4lb btw
 
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Done with glassing
 

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smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
Site Supporter
Location
Granbury, TX
I would just sand down the "lethal" bits as well as a decent sanding of what you glassed. This will get rid of the waxy texture left over from the glass so the turf glue will stick. Don't worry about getting it super nice, just look at it more as prep work for turf. 60 grit is fine.
 
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