SX/SXi/SXi Pro First Stand-Up Ski What to do to get it going.

I just got my first stand up ski. It was my fathers and has been sitting in a garage for at least 6 years. I remember riding it a long time ago as a kid. He says he had never had any problems with it and was running when it was put away. It is a 1993 Kawasaki 750sx. I believe it is all stock and do not know if it was winterized or prepared for storage. I don't know what all to check or do to it before throwing a battery in it and trying to fire it up. I was going to drain the gas out of it but should I pull the tank? And what about the oil? Drain and replace it? I have a battery from a 96 Kawasaki 1100 sit down ski and thought that would work just to see if it runs so I wouldn't have to buy one, not knowing if it runs yet. Should I pull the carb and rebuild it? How do I check the oil injection system? What all should I look at or do to this thing before Firing it up for the first time. I would like to ride it and make sure it is a sound ski before putting any money into it. The engine compartment smells like gas bad, so I've been airing it out. Anything will help. This is my first post but I've been stalking the forum for a while now, reading. Let me know what all you think or would do in my case? Thanks
 

Attachments

  • DSCF0209.jpg
    DSCF0209.jpg
    81 KB · Views: 135
  • DSCF0210.jpg
    DSCF0210.jpg
    76.2 KB · Views: 112
  • DSCF0211.jpg
    DSCF0211.jpg
    79.7 KB · Views: 116
  • DSCF0212.jpg
    DSCF0212.jpg
    40.9 KB · Views: 93
  • DSCF0213.jpg
    DSCF0213.jpg
    43.8 KB · Views: 102
  • DSCF0214.jpg
    DSCF0214.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 104
  • DSCF0215.jpg
    DSCF0215.jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 113
Last edited:
Before riding it I would definitely want to add a lanyard kill switch. Where would be the best place to get that? Also the gas cap has a small crack in it and the gas cap cover is missing, as seen in the pics.
 
1) remove tank and drain fuel and clean out sediment in tank
2) remove oil tank and throw in trash. buy a oil block off plate and premix your oil 40:1. your motor and wallet will thank you
3) Might be a good idea to take off the carb and clean it out, you might get lucky and not have to, youll find out when you try to start it
4) slap a battery in it and see what happens

looks pretty clean and taken care of. check over all of the rubber lines for fuel and crank case to carb line, if they seem loose or brittle replace them. any fuel or air leaks will cause major running issues. other than that you should be good. wont really know till its running.

Looks like you have a R&D grate on it, best one IMHO. As far as a kill switch you can dig around ebay or get in touch with Mike at optima racing, he always has good pricing and awesome customer service.
 

demian5

Jet Ski FNG
Location
Lake Forest, CA
I have a 1994 750SX in about the same time of sitting. I did a bench rebuild of the carb without replacing any parts. It runs good and idles great.
I just got a replacement lanyard switch plate (buttons only) from Kawasaki for $50. It is NOT listed as a replacement for that ski. Part description/number is: CASE, FR, SWITCH 32099-3809
I agree with pulling the gas tank and oil tank.
Replace those spark plug wire ends with new NGK and make sure the drain hole under the gas cap is clear. It runs to the right side rubber drain in front.
 
Last edited:
Thanks so much for the quick responses. Now I feel like I have a starting point. I'll do some more research on the oil block off plate, but I'm going to try and put as little money into it until I know it runs. I think I'll leave the oil injection on until then. I'll clean the tank put fresh gas in it and see if it'll fire. What octane gas should I use and would it be alright to use the oil that's already in there? If it does fire how long should I let it run out of water? Should I rev it up? let it warm up? Or just see if it'll fire and shut it down?
 

demian5

Jet Ski FNG
Location
Lake Forest, CA
You NEED to put a "T" at the hose on top of the head so you can hook up a water hose to run it on the trailer.
DO NOT RUN IT LONGER THAN 10-15 SECONDS WITHOUT WATER TO PREVENT DAMAGE!
When you get the ability to hook up a garden hose:
1. Start the ski, run for maybe 10 seconds.
2. Turn the water on just enough so it comes out of the drain on the Left front.
3. Run the ski and do what you have to do.
4. Turn the water off.
5. Rev the ski a couple times to clear most of the water.
6. While at the top of a rev, turn it off by pressing the STOP switch.

Get it started like it is before any $$$ investment.
I would run 91 octane and put fuel stabilizer in it for when it sits again.

I recommend pulling the motor anyways and check everything out. It takes about an hour to pull it, do stuff and install it.
Replace the fuel lines and oil lines (if you run the oil pump) for safety reasons.
If it were stored inside and the oil tank is sealed, the oil should be OK to get it started.
Get a new fire extenguisher for safety.
 
Fire extinguisher... check. I'll flush the fuel, put some fresh in and see if it fires. I'm assuming that I'll be able to tell the oil injection is working by the smell and smoke. If it fires I'll buy an oil block off plate and the lanyard kill switch. Make sure it fires up just fine before putting it in the water. Any links to the kill switch or oil block off plate would be helpful. Also a fuel cap and cover for the fuel cap area. All advice appreciated and any further recommendations will be helpful.
Thanks
 

PWCSAR

River Rat
Location
Wa
I would look up some info on priming the oil pump real quick, or go get the block off kit.. One screw up with the oil injection system and then your out a motor.. The 10.00 block off plate is a cheap fix for a very expensive problem.. Congrats on the ski
 
Location
NW PA
You could also premix the fuel you are putting in it (40:1) just to see if it runs without risking a blown engine. If it does run and the oil injection is working it will run at 20:1 effectively, maybe fouling the plugs after a little bit but no the engine. Then install block off plate.

along with what everybody else has said remove the crap twisted around the impeller shaft behind the intake grate.
 

PWCSAR

River Rat
Location
Wa
/\ Good catch, I had just re-read the thread from the beginning and enlarged that pic, also noticed what looks like twine around the impeller shaft.
 
It was just some dried grass around in there. It pulled right out. Thanks for all the replies. I pulled the gas and oil tanks. Cleaned the gas tank and reinstalled it. Pulled all the gas lines and seem to be in decent shape, no cracks or dry rot. Installed the oil block off plate with the oem o-ring. Putting everything back together. Question on the exhaust gasket. Are there supposed to be holes in this gasket for water to run through these cooling ports? It is a metal gasket with rubber on both sides but it blocks off the cooling ports. Or is it supposed to be like this? And what is broken by the poles hinge? DSCF0290.jpgDSCF0292.jpgDSCF0293.jpg
 

98SXIPRO

One Of A K1nd
Location
The Bay Area
nope, no holes in that gasket... tripped me up when i took mine apart for the first time too. the top of that hole holder is broken off. just about every single one out there is broken. i fixed mine with a piece of angle iron and some rivets and a stainless pin... just sold it though for like 20 bucks.
 
Thanks for the reply. Looks like it should have holes. The ports line up perfectly. Oh well, I'm putting it back together. Got everything back in but the exhaust. Fuel oil mix, battery and we'll see if it fires. I was thinking about pulling the plugs and putting a couple drops of oil in there to pre lube everything up. Someone posted it on another thread. How do I manually turn the motor over to get everything moving before I fire it up.
 

98SXIPRO

One Of A K1nd
Location
The Bay Area
u could pull the spark plugs, and then just rotate the driveshaft with ur hand if u can reach down in there. or...... with the plugs pulled, just tap the start button........
 
Thanks to all the help from everyone. It fired up and seems to run just fine. I just let it run for 10 seconds at a time. I didn't give it any throttle because I don't want to overheat it. Can I rev it up a bit from a cold start without risking overheating it? Now its time for a lanyard kill switch, registration and hopefully some ride time!
 

PWCSAR

River Rat
Location
Wa
You'll always want to give it a couple quick revs after it's back on the trailer/dock whatever to blow the water out so to answer your question: Yes but real quickly & kill it.
 
Top Bottom