Fiberglass help!

[Jkins30]

What fiber glass should I use to build the sides, the tray, and the back of the transom? Also, what foam should I use? As well as what order do these need to be done? And shoot while I’m at it, I keep hearing of train drains? And that I should do some type of trim cable hole?

 

[Sanoman]

Look at "My skis and build ups" on the homepage.Lots of builds going on right now with square nose's.Or google it,sometimes easier to find threads on here.

 

[Storbeck]

You kinda just dove right in on that one. I like it, but I'm no help other than agreeing with sanoman.

 

[Jkins30]

Look at "My skis and build ups" on the homepage.Lots of builds going on right now with square nose's.Or google it,sometimes easier to find threads on here.

Yeah, I found a thread through googling it and my phone died. And I can’t seem to find it again. Was wondering if anyone just had some quick info. Trying to get everything ordered tonight . Or by morning.


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[Jkins30]

You kinda just dove right in on that one. I like it, but I'm no help other than agreeing with sanoman.

Yeah.. I’d say so. Never really messed with fiberglass too much.



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[mikidymac]

I really hope this is an April fools joke if you chopped the ski that bad and don’t even know what to order to rebuild it.

 

[KR]

It’s a lawn ornament now! That dog won’t hunt.

 

[Jkins30]

I really hope this is an April fools joke if you chopped the ski that bad and don’t even know what to order to rebuild it.

Hey, thanks for the help bud.

 

[Sanoman]

Hey, thanks for the help bud.

I guess what he was trying to say is that you should have done more research before cutting the ski up.Hopefully the nose can be rebuilt with what is left.The questions you are asking could probably fill a book from your intitial post.

Maybe look at:
http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/project-dance-floor.192934/page-15#post-2019690

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/neglected-96-rn-build.192538/

I'll help as much as l can,but research as much as you can before going forward.

Sano

 

[Jkins30]

I guess what he was trying to say is that you should have done more research before cutting the ski up.Hopefully the nose can be rebuilt with what is left.The questions you are asking could probably fill a book from your intitial post.

Maybe look at:
http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/project-dance-floor.192934/page-15#post-2019690

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/neglected-96-rn-build.192538/

I'll help as much as l can,but research as much as you can before going forward.

Sano

I bought a carter b rocker nose for it. Already installed. He sent me info on what to use to glass it on. I really just needed pointers as of what to use for the rest. I wasn’t in search of a answer to “do y’all think I can do it?” Just wanted some pointers. I’ve done research. But I’m a hands on guy. You can’t learn to do something just by googling how other people do it. No biggie, I’ll figure it on my own.

 

[Sanoman]

Wow...

 

[yamahaulass]

In short your going to need 1208 biax, 1708 biax, epoxy, some kind of filler like cabosil, 2 part foam..............

 

[Req]

I know you are trying to order this morning so lets get this figured out. You will need a lot of glass to get that rear strong again. I am guessing you are going wide tray, adjustable hold friendly, moderate reinforcement.

The engine bay and lower tray will take 3 yards per layer combined, so if you are doing one layer of 1708 get 3 for that area, however two layers of 17oz non biax is easier to work with so 6 yards if you want to use that.

Gunwales will take about 0.5 yards per panel, at 5 layers and two gunwales that is 5 yards, 1708 for this would be good imo but 1208 could work if you did 6 or 7 layers.

Tray floor will take about 5 layers of 1708 if you are rebuilding it from scratch, one yard per layer, 1208/17biax will need closer to 7.

Rear transom will need a couple of yards, that needs to be thick. 8 layers is overkill but bullet proof.

You will want some cloth as well to cover some of the more aesthetic areas on the outside, maybe 2 or 3 yards. Also get the 50" width stuff for reinforcement (1708/1208/17ozbiax), it can cover the entire width of the ski from hood seal to hood seal.

Resin, do not get slow cure! Get the 3:1, perfect for our needs. For the amount of fiberglassing I just described you are already at 3 gallons, get the 3 gallon kit, it will save you 30 bucks! For reference I just ordered my 4th gallon and will use about a quarter of it I suspect.

Good luck. Watch boatworks today on youtube, he teaches in a very hands on way and works with a lot of the materials we do.

 

[Storbeck]

I would do what Req said, and check out his project dance floor linked above.

Don't worry about the naysayers. I have no idea what you're project will be or how it will turn out but if drive in you're sure to learn a lot.

 

[Jkins30]

I know you are trying to order this morning so lets get this figured out. You will need a lot of glass to get that rear strong again. I am guessing you are going wide tray, adjustable hold friendly, moderate reinforcement.

The engine bay and lower tray will take 3 yards per layer combined, so if you are doing one layer of 1708 get 3 for that area, however two layers of 17oz non biax is easier to work with so 6 yards if you want to use that.

Gunwales will take about 0.5 yards per panel, at 5 layers and two gunwales that is 5 yards, 1708 for this would be good imo but 1208 could work if you did 6 or 7 layers.

Tray floor will take about 5 layers of 1708 if you are rebuilding it from scratch, one yard per layer, 1208/17biax will need closer to 7.

Rear transom will need a couple of yards, that needs to be thick. 8 layers is overkill but bullet proof.

You will want some cloth as well to cover some of the more aesthetic areas on the outside, maybe 2 or 3 yards. Also get the 50" width stuff for reinforcement (1708/1208/17ozbiax), it can cover the entire width of the ski from hood seal to hood seal.

Resin, do not get slow cure! Get the 3:1, perfect for our needs. For the amount of fiberglassing I just described you are already at 3 gallons, get the 3 gallon kit, it will save you 30 bucks! For reference I just ordered my 4th gallon and will use about a quarter of it I suspect.

Good luck. Watch boatworks today on youtube, he teaches in a very hands on way and works with a lot of the materials we do.

I know you are trying to order this morning so lets get this figured out. You will need a lot of glass to get that rear strong again. I am guessing you are going wide tray, adjustable hold friendly, moderate reinforcement.

The engine bay and lower tray will take 3 yards per layer combined, so if you are doing one layer of 1708 get 3 for that area, however two layers of 17oz non biax is easier to work with so 6 yards if you want to use that.

Gunwales will take about 0.5 yards per panel, at 5 layers and two gunwales that is 5 yards, 1708 for this would be good imo but 1208 could work if you did 6 or 7 layers.

Tray floor will take about 5 layers of 1708 if you are rebuilding it from scratch, one yard per layer, 1208/17biax will need closer to 7.

Rear transom will need a couple of yards, that needs to be thick. 8 layers is overkill but bullet proof.

You will want some cloth as well to cover some of the more aesthetic areas on the outside, maybe 2 or 3 yards. Also get the 50" width stuff for reinforcement (1708/1208/17ozbiax), it can cover the entire width of the ski from hood seal to hood seal.

Resin, do not get slow cure! Get the 3:1, perfect for our needs. For the amount of fiberglassing I just described you are already at 3 gallons, get the 3 gallon kit, it will save you 30 bucks! For reference I just ordered my 4th gallon and will use about a quarter of it I suspect.

Good luck. Watch boatworks today on youtube, he teaches in a very hands on way and works with a lot of the materials we do.

Thank you, exactly what I needed! Will do. I appreciate all the help you have offered along the way.

 

[Req]

My ski is built like a surf ski, even though it doesn't need to be and will likely never see salt. Take that into consideration, you may be able to drop a layer or two from my layup schedule on the tray, gunwales, and transom and be fine on the river/lake and save a few lbs. My hull is going to tip the scales at around 125, I have read about people getting close to 100 by being smarter with the schedule and more realistic with the expectations. You cut more off the back and front than I did so that is a weight loss, the fiberglass you are adding back is lighter and stronger than what you cut out per volume, in my experience at least.

 

[Jkins30]

Sounds good! Now for the epoxy resin.. 635 thin or 150 thick?

 

[Storbeck]

Thin

 

[Req]

You will also want some cabosil, glass beads, and a 4" metal roller. The pumps for the resin and hardener are also nice.

 

[Sparkplug]

You can hit 3 layers of 1708 biax with a bat and probably not break it. I'd do 3 max. 2 is probably fine if there is foam behind it for structure.

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