Hey guys new to the site and new to the skis. I recently bought a 1989 kawasaki 650, it has a 91 650 motor in it but from what i can see they look similar. I want to remove the engine and go over the whole ski. I don't have an owners manual or anything and was wondering if you guys had any advice. Everything looks pretty simple except i can't see if its going to be a pain in the ass to get it off the driveline. Any advice would be much appreciated.
650/X-2 Engine Removal?
- Thread starter likeaboss
- Start date
Just unbolt it, comes right out. Hit your local library or ebay for a kawasaki repair guide, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clymer-Kawa...341?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item231564d255
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Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
I'd suggest you take pictures of everything you can, especially if you tamper with it in anyway. Once disconnected, you may have no reference of how to put it back together (if you forget) unless you have pictures.
- Disconnect the battery. (always a wise idea to disconnect the battery 1st for most projects like this)
- If you have a quick disconnect plug to disconnect your stator from your ebox, you can unplug it, otherwise you will have to leave the stator connected to the ebox and remove the ebox. (you will most likely have to do the latter.)
- If you have to remove the ebox, unplug the connection from the start/stop to the e-box.
- disconnect the fuel lines from the carb, label them if you need to. Fuel will drain from the lines, so be careful in what you choose to do with them.
- Disconnect the throttle cable from the carb
- Disconnect the stinger (end cone of the pipe) from the waterbox
- disconnect the stinger from the pipe
- Remove the 4 bolts that hold the engine in place. The engine may be shimmed with flat plates bigger than a silver dollar. Keep track of the shims and be sure to put them back exactly where you got them from (this applies to the jet pump too if you remove it).
That should cover it... taking it out is easy. It's doing so in a way that you remember how to put it back together that complicates things.
Consider installing a bilge while you have the motor out. You may add one later but it is easiest to install it with the motor out. Do not remove the stock bilge. Add an electric bilge extra on a switch. I prefer the Rule 500 myself. Bilge, switch, wires, connections and fuses will cost about $80. A worthwild investment.
- Disconnect the battery. (always a wise idea to disconnect the battery 1st for most projects like this)
- If you have a quick disconnect plug to disconnect your stator from your ebox, you can unplug it, otherwise you will have to leave the stator connected to the ebox and remove the ebox. (you will most likely have to do the latter.)
- If you have to remove the ebox, unplug the connection from the start/stop to the e-box.
- disconnect the fuel lines from the carb, label them if you need to. Fuel will drain from the lines, so be careful in what you choose to do with them.
- Disconnect the throttle cable from the carb
- Disconnect the stinger (end cone of the pipe) from the waterbox
- disconnect the stinger from the pipe
- Remove the 4 bolts that hold the engine in place. The engine may be shimmed with flat plates bigger than a silver dollar. Keep track of the shims and be sure to put them back exactly where you got them from (this applies to the jet pump too if you remove it).
That should cover it... taking it out is easy. It's doing so in a way that you remember how to put it back together that complicates things.
Consider installing a bilge while you have the motor out. You may add one later but it is easiest to install it with the motor out. Do not remove the stock bilge. Add an electric bilge extra on a switch. I prefer the Rule 500 myself. Bilge, switch, wires, connections and fuses will cost about $80. A worthwild investment.
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Thanks guys excellent advice from both of you. It already has a bilge but the wiring looks like a 5 year old did it. One of the main reasons i am pulling it out is to make everything clean and legit. Instead of butt connectors and electrical tape everywhere i will sauter all the wires together. Does anyone know a link to where i can just download the manual? As far as the engine goes its seems to be in pretty good shape with the main upgrades, but a buddy of mine told me a couple things i need to get to complete the ski; Straight bars, Finger throttle, and a pole spring. Whats a good cheap site that sells all of these?
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
The only sites I know of for parts are shopsbt.com, bikebandit.com and ebay.com. I buy many used parts from x-h2o.com or pwctoday.com members.
There are online service manuals available. Try searching the forum. I believe they are posted somewhere. You can also try google. I myself am a fan of clymer and own many clymer books like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clymer-Kawa...341?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item231564d255 . The link is to the book I have and I have found it very useful over the years. You may be able to find one cheaper if you look a bit harder than I did. Try Amazon, maybe you can find a used book.
There are online service manuals available. Try searching the forum. I believe they are posted somewhere. You can also try google. I myself am a fan of clymer and own many clymer books like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clymer-Kawa...341?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item231564d255 . The link is to the book I have and I have found it very useful over the years. You may be able to find one cheaper if you look a bit harder than I did. Try Amazon, maybe you can find a used book.
I use the clymer manual. Yanking the engine is easy and pretty straightforward, and once done you won't forget. Hell, I yanked the motor out of my 650sx and put it in, and yanked it back out, within an hour span yesterday (and resoldered connections with the charge coil between the two only to realize that wasn't the issue so had to yank it after I put it in!)
[h=6]Successful night, I took the motor out, got the bilge pump working, mounted the battery case, fixed all the fittings, organized all the wiring took the butt connectors off and sautered the wires back together 4 that clean and legit look. Then put it all back together. No Problems at all![/h]