Super Jet Electrical problem - no start :(

[96superjet]

My phantom has a completely rebuild electrical box (JSS ignition coil, Epic HX3 CDI) and was running fine the last three weeks. Went to start it today and NOTHIN. No click, no spark, no cranking, nothin.

So, first thing I did is grabbed a spare start stop switch and plugged it in, nothin. Checked the fuse, looked fine. Confirmed ground cable connected to bolt on starter and lead from e-box to starter post all connected.

Next step is obviously to pull the ebox and crack that damn thing open. Assuming all leads are still properly connected, what should be the next thing to test? Is there some volt ohm meter stuff I should check?

Post script: battery source is fine. Hit my OCD bilge switch and bilges crank.


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[DAG]

Hey Scott, once you pull the ebox jump the noid post with a screwdriver. If the starter spins replace the noid. Still no spin check the lead going to starter, the starter itself, and grounds (again, just incase)

 

[96superjet]

Hey Ashby, I run a JSS setup like this with the top mounted posts which allow for quick disconnect. If I jump those two posts, that would essentially be the same as jumping the solenoid, right?

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[orangefinger]

the bilge can crank despite almost dead battery....

on the starter relay jump the to large red ones and see if it cranks as previous posts

 

[augustaf]

Yes, it would be. You might also consider checking for voltage at the red wire (white Sumitomo plug) of the start / stop harness.. No voltage there = fuse inside box

 

[DAG]

Yes, jump those post. You may not have to open the box after all

Ps: when you do it it will spark alittle, assuming good battery and power leads, But you got to make good firm contact. I think everyone jumps alittle their first time

 

[ANT]

You really need a multimeter to diagnose it correctly. If you are not even getting a click when you hit the button, then try the simple things first before you tear anything apart. The OEM plugs right outside the ebox for the S/S switch can get corroded internally make sure thats not it.
All these should be true in this order:
-12v at the battery while pressing the start button (meter red probe on + and black probe on -)
If you don't bad battery
-12v at the battery while pressing the start button (red probe on battery + and black probe on a CLEAN, BARE metal spot on the motor...not a bolt head,not a fitting...a CLEAN BARE spot of the casting of the motor even if you have to make a spot)
12v while pressing start button -->ok
immediate drop in voltage when the start button is pressed--->bad ground
-12v at both solenoid posts while pressing the start button (red probe on one post at a time, black probe on battery - )
While pushing the start button, if you get 12v on both posts and get no cranking then your problem is the starter or cable ends at the starter
If you get 12v on one post but not the other then your problem is in the S/S switch circuit.

S/S switch circuit is real easy to diagnose with the ebox apart. With the box open:

-There is a little red wire spliced into your battery cable that connects to your fuse holder. You should have 12v inside the side of the fuse holder that connects to that wire (red probe inside the fuse holder, black probe on the ground post that the starter relay is grounded to)
No 12V-->bad splice or connection to the battery cable, or bad ebox ground from stator
Have 12V-->ok
-The brown wire that connects to your starter solenoid, unplug this wire and test the end coming from your s/s switch (red probe on brown wire connector and black probe on ground post that the solenoid is grounded to)
While pressing the start button:
12v on brown wire coming from switch-->bad relay or relay ground
No 12V on brown wire-->your problem is in the S/S switch or any associated connection starting from the red wire spliced into your battery cable and ending at the brown wire that plugs into your solenoid.


If nothing simple solves it then follow that order, it will take everything out of the equation. As long as you are testing the connections correctly and there are no goofy or ghetto fab connections someone made or altered in your ski you'll find the problem.

 

[tntsuperjet]

Hey Scott, once you pull the ebox jump the noid post with a screwdriver. If the starter spins replace the noid. Still no spin check the lead going to starter, the starter itself, and grounds (again, just incase)

Don't do it this way you damage the threads on stater solinoid. Your better off pulling the bullet connector off the the positive side of solinoid and touching it to the battery or hot side of the solinoid.
If you have voltage and solinoid is good it will crank.

 

[DAG]

Don't do it this way you damage the threads on stater solinoid. Your better off pulling the bullet connector off the the positive side of solinoid and touching it to the battery or hot side of the solinoid.

If you have voltage and solinoid is good it will crank.

Not sure if this is serious? You obviously leave the nuts and wires connected AKA threads arnt exposed... or do you jump your noid without power to it lol

also just b/c battery voltage is good and solinoid is good does not mean it will crank. You could have a bad starter, bad lead from noid to starter, or a bad ground which would not be found in your test recommendation. c'mon man misleading info is no breno lol