Other Dual 800 GPH bilge pumps on a CPI Military Toggle switch?

[OCD Solutions]

I have been asked if the bar mounted CPI Military toggle switches that I sell will handle running dual 800 GPH bilge pumps. They are rated at 5amps so technically the answer is no as dual pumps will draw 5.8amps at full load. I haven't run this configuration personally so I don't have an answer.

All the CPI switches on the market as well as the rotary styles are rated at 5 amps so what I want to know is if any of you guys have experience with running one with dual 800's and what an owner can expect for switch life?

Military tends to over build things plus bilge pumps aren't always operating at full load so I suspect that they will perform just fine, I just want real world feedback so I don't advise customers erroneously.

 

[OCD Solutions]

Anyone?

 

[Vumad]

Tell them to patch the holes I their boat and run dual 500s. Dual 500s kept my x2 floating in heavy surf and it would have taken on less water if I had just removed that ty hood. I understand running a single 800, butif there's a need for two, the amperage on the switch isn't the problem.

Sorry that doesn't answer your question, but I can't comprehend the need.

 

[DavidSuperJet13]

Tell them to patch the holes I their boat and run dual 500s. Dual 500s kept my x2 floating in heavy surf and it would have taken on less water if I had just removed that ty hood. I understand running a single 800, butif there's a need for two, the amperage on the switch isn't the problem.

Sorry that doesn't answer your question, but I can't comprehend the need.

I ran dual 500's in an 08 sxr and took on enough water during a couple subs to hydro lock the engine, pretty sure if i had been running dual 8s it would have emptied the hull quick enough to where it wouldn't have been a prob. Any other time after a sub i had to idle around and let the bilges run awhile before getting up and going again. I am going to install 800s in my new ski just as a little extra piece of mind if i can help it i would really rather not have that "oh " moment again..

 

[davy87nj]

What about running the switch on the ground side of the load? Fuse the power with a little higher amperage fuse. I know I made a thread asking about this and people do it both ways. But to me I think it would keep the switch lasting longer. If the switch were to get corrosion and cause higher resistance and draw down the bilge pumps it would simply blow the fuse. With out running a relay(which is probably not practical)I think that would keep the switch working well.

 

[OCD Solutions]

It doesn't matter how you assemble the components, the current flow thru each component will be the same and current will be what kills the switch.

The relay idea is actually pretty good and I just happen to have a couple here fully encased and waterproofed ready to go. They are small enough that they will even fit inside the yamaha ebox if one desired...

 

[davy87nj]

It doesn't matter how you assemble the components, the current flow thru each component will be the same and current will be what kills the switch.

The relay idea is actually pretty good and I just happen to have a couple here fully encased and waterproofed ready to go. They are small enough that they will even fit inside the yamaha ebox if one desired...

Your right, got my voltage and amps mixed up there. Its all so clear now. I was figureing it would be alittle hard to find a super small waterproof relay. That would be pretty cool.