Super Jet Decisions on upgrades to stock 2011 superjet

Hello, firstly this is my first thread/post so forgive me if this seems like its been repeated countless times before. That out of the way, I have a new Superjet (well I say new, ive had the beaut nearly a year lol) and have had a lot of fun in my first year. It is completely stock other than the pole spring which I replaced literally after engine break in (cannot believe it was advertised as assisted steering, never mind). I am at a stage now where I would like to do some modifications but need some help in the products I choose. I would like to start practicing freestyle but would like the products not to completely eliminate the fun you have going in the long straight (I appreciate there are going to be sacrifices but would like this to be minimal).

The main systems that I would like advice on are:

1. The steering (I have found the steering is very hard to throw unlike other skis ive used in the past), so what are the alternative / best steering systems out there for this ski.

2. If I plan on doing subs, attempting rolls and such like I obviously need a good bilge system are the manual rule 500s on a handlebar switch sufficient for this or is it worth getting dual 500s?.

3. Is it worth changeing the impellor, again something that will have the best of both worlds, well as close to. If this isnt possible what is the best for freestyle as im quite happy with the existing impellor, but something that will maybe give that extra grunt for backflips will help.

4. Intake grate / riding plate for freestyle. I know this has been discussed before but just wondering wether things have changed.

Again apologies if this seems a bit naive and been repeated but cannot find anything recently posted plus theres just so much out there Im a bit lost of where to start and what to choose.

Happy Skiing, Ben :)
 
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mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
ok cause flatwater requires maximum low end power and maybe some hull shortening, surf is possible with pretty much any setup as long as you have footholds. the first thing you should do if you havnt already is get a factory B-pipe (prefferably limited style). it boosts all around power and is the most efficient pipe on the market. second i would install a set of footholds, style is your choice but most prefer diggers from Blowsion, if your doing footholds you can also install a scupper valve which, unlike dealing with bilge pumps, dumps all of the water out of the engine compartment with forward motion of the ski itself, its a bit tricky to install at first but once you get it fitted its simple to install. Now on to the pump, worx wr228 scoop grate is the way to go along with 12/17 pitch prop, it provides low end power and top end speed along with excellent hookup in rough water, for a ride plate, the most cost effective is to just keep the stock plate or go with either a worx extended or Jet Dynamics ride plate, the worx plate is more for racing but the Jet Dynamics is great for freeride. for steering UMI sealed bearing steering system works excellent or Blowsion billet steering system allow maximum steering radius and more responsive. these are just basic mods that greatly improve performance over stock, you can always add things in the future such as high compression head, lightened flywheel, billet drve couplers, etc....
 
Hey thanx for your quick informative reply. I am currently looking at the blowsion billet steering system as I think its easily adjustable, havent seen the umi version will look inamo. I will want the b pipe but is quite an outlay for me atm looking at getting the other parts out the way first and save for that (it took bloody years to save for the ski itself). the 12 /17 pitch prop you have stated, what is the most popular solas skat trak or is it another brand? Also the scupper kit you mentioned doesnt it act pretty similar to the stock bilge system ie removes water from forward motion? thanx again. Trotty
 
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mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
the scupper works 10 time better than the stock bilge system, the sock system requires a vacuum created by water exiting the pump to empty, if you install a scupper and do a submarine, as soon as you come up 90% of the water is gone while with the stock system you need to ride in a straight line to completely empty it, the 12/17 i had was a skat-trak 12/17 freeride swirl, your very welcome for the replies, always a pleasure to help someone :smile:
 

djraider700

lol wut?
Location
South Jersey
I have a 2010 SJ.

First thing is to replace the steering cable with a 96-07 cable or an aftermarket one. I run a cable from a guy on here named shmity1. I also run an xmetal turnplate with straight bars. Modify your steering nozzle for more throw (search for quick steer mod).

Keep the stock prop. It's already a big hub and works great.

I run a 500gph rule bilge pump and the stock siphon bilge. I ride surf 95% of the time and it's more than plenty. No need for a scupper unless your in a competition IMO. Plus some scuppers tend to leak when you're not moving forward. Do a search on here for more details.

Intake grate and ride plate are more of a personal choice. I run a stock intake grate and d cut stock ride plate. Keeps the nose up a little higher for the surf and the stock intake grate helps the back end slide a little easier compared to a scoop grate. If you upgrade, the Worx would be a nice choice.

Footholds definitely. Try to test out some to get an idea of what you like if you can.

Limiting rope for the handlepole is a must for surf riding.

Helmets are nice too :)

Factory B-pipe makes a great increase in power and throttle response.

Ride as much as you can.
 
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EXACTLY as djraider700 suggested. Our skis must be identical! I also use shmity1's cable/bracket set up. I prefer the cold fusion riser bar turnplate for steering tho, I love mine bc it uses stock bushings and is of nice quality. OCD solutions on this forum makes a great bilge pump wiring kit.
 
hey djraider700 thanx for ur reply. Ive done some research in regards to the steering cable and the method described means alterations to which you might understand I feel a bit worried that I may mess up, I would rather spend a bit more and get a kit, if available, that means just install and go and if possible am able to adjust to suit on condition / style needed. I appreciate that the process you have explained has had rave reviews but a lot of people have said that you need an old pole etc etc and according to blowsion, there system can just go straight on, but hey correct me if im wrong im happy for the input and just want to make sure I get the right system.

The stock prop haveing not really tried anything else im happy with but a previous post has suggested using a 12 /17 pitch for practicing freestyle for low end power, im not sure what pitch the existing one is, however if its fine to do this I will see how I get on.

I feel your point about the bilge system is quite valid, not to disregard the previous post in regards to the scupper as it obviously works but I will be leaving my ski in the water anchored sometimes and have read, as you have rightly said, are prone to leak and you have to cut out on the hull so feel for the moment I will go with the initial rule 500 gph bilge with handlebar switch. If I feel that its not sufficient well I will then start looking into this as they have magnetised ones (I just want the water out, if the bilge pump is good at it from doing tricks then im happy to go with that).

I defo like the look of the worx wr228 and has had some rave reviews so am quite happy to go with this, thanx for that guys :).

In regards to the footholds its hard for me to test them out without buying as getting them will mean mail order (united kingdom) theres a few shops / dealers around but miles away so have to go really with what people say!!! oh well lol.

Will definately invest in a helmet after some close calls!! any ideas? some of blowsions ones look the nuts, nothing too heavy im only small lol. The limiting rope I havent really thought of, is it to stop the pole lifting right up? excuse the lack of knowledge hehe.

Lastly the factory d pipe. Is it an easy install, does it effect engine reliability? how much extra horses does it give the stock engine?

Thanx for the input guys :)
Trotty
 

djraider700

lol wut?
Location
South Jersey
Steering systems that use bearings are nice, but may require more maintanance, especially in salt water.

I'm running the shmity1 cable on my stock 2010 handlepole. A little modification is required but it's easy. A 96-07 cable should be a simple bolt on though.

Factory pipe doesn't affect reliability as long as it's properly tuned. Increases the efficiency of your motor. I think factory pipe claims 27 more hp on a stock engine. It's the only power mod I have done and it was well worth it. I'll add more power mods in the future but what I have now is plenty for surf riding.
 
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Ive been looking at shmity1 cable and it seems the best way to resolve this issue as I dont wanna be cutting pole to new ski or buying new pole if this can be avoided. Seeing as im in the uk is shipment a prob for him? want to resolve this in the most reliable way and just want some better steering as currently is rather gash. A 96-07 cable would mean I would have to either cut or get a pre 08 pole right?, think i need to speak to schmity1 ts innovations to see if he can ship me a hassle free product but noone that has ordered thus have been from england :-(
 

djraider700

lol wut?
Location
South Jersey
I've never tried a 96-07 cable on my 08+ handlepole, but I'm pretty sure it will bolt right in. the connections all look the same. Hopefully someone can chime in and help out.

The stock cable is a joke. I feel your pain. In the meantime, make sure the cable is mounted to the outermost hole on the stock turnplate. You can also do the quicksteer mod on your steering nozzle. Basically drill and tap a new hole closer to the nozzle. Just make sure your bars/nozzle are adjusted straight and the steering stops hit before the cable is maxed out in both directions.
 
would mounting the cable on the outermost hole on the stock turnplate allow the cable to snap? it states in the manual that it cannot be used but doesnt explain why. :), i do feel the setup u have is the answer in regards to schmidt1, but feel that he will not deliver all the way here :-(
 
I also have 2010 SJ.
Here is the list of mods I've done:
1. Schmidt1 cable is a must, dont upgrade the steering system before as it will not work with the stock cable.
1a. Steering system is a must right after you upgrade the cable. Absolutely must. I run Cold Fusion steering with Blowsion riser bars and like them better than my straight bars. 1 and 1a are major and critical upgrades you must do :).
1b. Make sure to get a/m throttle lever as the stock will no longer work. You can modify a bike aluminium one for cheap or go with a good one. Don't buy the Blowsion, it sux big time...
2. Bilge pump IMO is a must as well, easy and cheap upgrade. If you like it clean, buy OCD wire harness or you can hook it up straight to the battery with a fuse. I would recommend you to install the switch (if you want one) to the firewall not through the pole. I got rid of the chocke and ran OCD switch through the hole there.
If you plan to do subs (first trick we all learn to do with SJ) then don't try it before you install a bilge pump.
3. B-Pipe: a MUST for more brap and the only power mod you will really feel IMO. Make sure to properly replace/adjust the jets on your carbs.
4. Foot holds / turf with thick padding: a must as well. The stock turf is ugly, slippery and hard as concrete. this is a must for any kind of tricks you like to learn. The padding will make it easier on your knees for many flat landings in the beginning.
5. Worx intake grade: Big improvement. 205 for more aggressive hook up and 228 (made for post 08 SJets) for little less they say..
6. 10/16 hooker prop (really nice improvement :) )
7. ADA girdled head. I don't know how much that improved the performance, but I guess it did something :)
8. MSD enhancer: good thing to have as well, but not a must in my opinion as I did not feel a thing :)...
9. Buy a lot of spark plugs and keep them in handy, change them often especially if you ride salt water.
10. Limiting rope: a must if you start high air jumps in the surf and bail out on your ski :)
11. Reinforce the hull: last thing to do which I have not done yet...
12. Forgot that one, but it should be in the beginning: change the locking mechanism of your hood with ta ratchet/strap one. A MUST.

Let me know if you need details on each install as I did most of them myself.

D.
 
hey, yea the xmetal steering mod looks a good choice with not haveing a bearing setup i would imagine it would be more user friendly / less maintenance than that of blowsion system / bearing. Coldfusion do a similar design and that too has rave reviews, i guess if they are both as good as eachother it would have to come down to cost which would make xmetal the viable choice as they have a uk shop that i could order from (please tell me if im wrong). In regards to the bars I dont know wether id be best with straight or risers seeing as im used to the stock.
 
That was most useful dmpus and thanx!!! In regards to the cable, I have spoken to schmidt1 and will be ordering the cable from him early next week (woopwoop)!!. The next thing is turnplate, when I order one do I need to order it pre 08? Im looking at coldfusion, xscream and atp atm as all seem to be bush systems, just need to know wether i order pre 08 because of the cable install?, also the throttle lever, any suggestions? regards. Trotty
 
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I think most pre-08 steering systems will work as long as you have that shmity1 cable. Im using the cold fusion riser turn plate with 50mm rrp riser bars and I had to trim a significant amount of material off the chinpad then restaple the cover back on. It wasnt all too difficult but a bit time consuming to have a nice clean job. The cold fusion throttle also is nice. Plus side is you can order both from the same dealer and save on shipping costs to the uk.
 
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